The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 11

The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch (1836)
by Paul of Aleppo, translated by F. C. Belfour
Book I. Sect. XI
Paul of Aleppo3739527The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch — Book I. Sect. XI1836F. C. Belfour

Sect. XI.

Constantinople.—Mahall Assamatah.

On Thursday, the Priests and Archons of Mahall Assamatah came to invite our Lord the Patriarch, by permission of the Constantinopolitan, and to request him that he would go and perform mass in their district. We therefore accompanied them, in a boat, about sixteen miles over water: for the circuit of the walls of Constantinople is said to be twelve miles[1]. Mahall Assamatah is a neck of land stretching out into the sea, so that three-fourths of it are insular. The remaining fourth is contiguous to the gate of Adrianople, behind the Fanar. The whole of this territory is covered with vineyards and gardens, and grows a considerable number of pistachio-trees. The inhabitants met us in procession; and we arrived at their place at sun-set, on the eve of the first Sunday of the Fast of the Nativity. Early in the morning we celebrated mass in the Church of the Emperor Constantine the Great; which is very ancient and venerable, lofty and magnificent, built with stone, and adorned with cupolas. It contains pictures of Our Lord the Messiah, of Our Lady, of St. Nicholas, and of St. John the Baptist; all ancient and magnificently large, and supposed to be of the time of the Emperor Constantine. An immense congregation assisted at the mass, which was followed by a consecration of Deacons. We had the blessing to kiss the right-hand of the Emperor Constantine. It is a bone, as yellow as gold.

There is nothing I long for in the churches of Constantinople, and the surrounding country, but the singing of the little boys, and their chaunting Ἅγιος ὁ Θεὸς at the Epistles, and Alleluia at the Gospel, and Κύριε ἐλέησον during the whole of the Prone; and the beauty of their sweet modulation.

The name of this Mahall Assamatah, in Greek, was anciently Πασομάτια. In Turkish it is called Mahalleh Caraman; for when the Sultan Mahomet became master of the city, he sent for inhabitants from Caramania, and, settling them here, gave them the church, and the place their name. In this Pasomatia it was that happened the procession of angels, at the time the heresies appeared, saying: "Blessed is he that is on our side!" and the young man was rapt up into the air, and came down, repeating, "Blessed be he who dieth not!" according as he had heard the angels praising God.

After the mass and banquet, we went to visit the remaining Churches of Samatah. The second is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and is very handsome. The third is the Church of Our Lady: the fourth, of St. George: this last, is ancient, and has cupolas of stone, and an antique pavement. Within it is a picture of St. George, painted, in mosaic, upon the wall, and gilt; very ancient, and of surprising art; and an Ἁγίασμα: the latter is sure to be found in every church in Constantinople. We took a blessing from the body of St. Anastasia, who rescues from enchantment. Of all the churches in Constantinople, including also the Patriarchal Church, there is not one so ancient as the times of the Christian Emperors, save this in the Mahalleh Caraman.



  1. "The City of Constantinople is built on a triangular promontory, projecting into the Sea of Marmora: two sides are washed by the sea; and the third is that which connects the triangle with the main land, and may be called its base. These sides are well fortified with walls; which still remain, though in several places so dilapidated as to be incapable of any defence, without great reparation. The whole circuit is estimated at more than twelve miles; the side washed by the harbour, three; that washed by the Sea of Marmora, more than four; and the base nearly five, extending from sea to sea, and terminating in the Seven Towers."—Dr. Walsh.