The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 2

The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch (1836)
by Paul of Aleppo, translated by F. C. Belfour
Book I. Sect. II
Paul of Aleppo3737921The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch — Book I. Sect. II1836F. C. Belfour

Sect. II.

Iconium.

Hence we again started in the evening; and before noon on Sunday, the fourteenth after Pentecost, and the eleventh day of the month Iloul, we arrived at Ikonieh (Iconium); where we attended the Feast of the Cross, in a church belonging to our Greek Community, and having a roof of wood. Afterwards we went to visit the Convent of Saint Chariton, whose Festival is on the twenty-sixth of Iloul. The convent is at a short distance of two hours from the city. The whole edifice, and also its churches and repositories, are of quarry-stone, from the mountain. The principal church is exceeding large and lofty, built also with its temples of quarry-stone. Behind the holy table is a cave, to which you descend by steps, where the Saint devoted himself to the worship of God; and wherein is shewn you a long stone, in the shape of a pillow, which they informed us was his pillow. In this church is a Tomb, on which is written in Greek, "Who begot the Son?" on porphyry: and calculating its chronology, we found that it is five hundred years old at the present time. In like manner, upon the door of the church, its epoch is inscribed in Greek. All the rest of the churches are small. At a short distance outside the convent is an ancient cave, into which you descend by steps: in it the robbers confined the Saint, as their prisoner. Here is a large spring, which he caused to burst forth for them, and of which the water is delicious. We slept in the convent the night preceding Wednesday the fifteenth of Iloul, and in the morning returned to the city. The walls of it are large, and it contains surprising edifices, and many paintings, and portraits of persons, who are as it were speaking. We went to see the Establishment of the Mollakhanah of the holy Molla Khandkar, in which are some remarkably handsome buildings: the chandeliers of silver and gold, and the lamps, which have been selected from the treasuries of Kings and Emperors, are very numerous. One chandelier, shaped into every kind of flower-stalk, weighs ninety okas of gold and silver. The steps of ascent to his tomb are of silver. Near to it is the tomb of the Monk, his companion; upon which is a black garment, and a large black turban. The pavement of the steps consists of entire slabs of marble, cut thin, as though they were plates of silver. At the sight of these wonders, every person who enters this place is perfectly astonished. The Chief, and the rest of the Dervishes, entertain great love for Christians and Monks. They had admitted us, and shewed us about, whilst we on our parts were full of dread and apprehension. As to the tribe of Turkomans, there is a curse upon them, should they not admit them.

We now joined company with a Cadi of Aleppo, and the Caravan from that place; and setting out on Thursday, arrived the next morning at Ladak; which place, in the Συναξάρια (Martyrology), is named Litavernieh, and contains a magnificent church dedicated to Saint Michael, besides Roman edifices, and many other churches. We left it at the approach of evening; and arrived early the next day at a village called Algham, on the outside of which is a Hammam, or Bath, called Kibloujah, of hot water; and near to it is also one of cold water. In the evening we again departed; and came in the morning of the next day, which was Saturday the eighteenth of Iloul, to a village called Ak Shehr, celebrated for the tomb of Haja. After travelling again all night, the next day brought us to Sakla. It was the first Sunday after the Feast of the Cross. At midnight we again started, and in the morning reached Belaidon. The whole road from Sakla to Belaidon is furnished with bridges, and paved with stone. Setting off in the evening, and having passed the stage Khan Bayaz in the night, we came next day to Khan Khosrof Pasha, whence we departed again in the dusk of the evening; and the next day, Wednesday, arrived at Seyyid Ghazi. This place we quitted at the approach of night; and on Thursday, the twenty-fourth of Iloul, came to Eski Shehr, the yellow water-melons of which are famous: they are very sweet; and from their firmness, being hung up, they keep till winter. Here, during Friday, we reposed: and setting forth on the eve of Saturday, arrived the next morning at Yeuz Hok.

Saturday evening we again departed, and arrived next day at Bazojik. It was the second Sunday after the Feast of the Cross. The road from beginning to end of the last day's journey was narrow. On the right of it is a mountain, and a forest; on the left, a river, to look down upon which is frightful.

We set out again in the evening; and on Monday morning arrived at Yengi Shehr. The next station, of Khan Ak Beyik, we entered in the night: and here we parted from the Stamboul Caravan, and slept in the khan. On the morning of Tuesday we left this place; and at noon came to a populous town, called Bazaveng, which lies half-way between Yengi Shehr and Broussa. Here we ate Turkish milk of indescribable lusciousness, and equally delicious bread and melons. Here is a fountain (قصطل) of sweet water, cold to a degree of wonder.