The description and Voyage of Italy.
Mount Cenis:Arriving then, as I said before, at the foot of Mount Cenis, anciently called Cinisium; and resting all night at Lasnebourg we agreed with the Marons, to carry us up the hill, and down the Hill, as also over the plain, and in fine, all the way to Novalese it self. All this is to be expressed in your bargain with them, otherwise they will cavil with you, and make you go over the plain a foot. The price is, a Spanish pistol for every man thats carryed. Those that are strong and vigorous, ride up upon Mules, and walk down a foot.
We began to mount at our going out of our Inn at Lasnebourg, and having passed by La Ramassa (where men are posted down the Hill upon the Snow in Sledges with great celerity and pleasure) after two hours tugging of our Chairmen, or Marons, we came to the top of the hill, and a little after to the Posthouse, and the little Hospital upon the plain: Thence passing by the Chappel, of the Transis (that is, of those who are found dead of cold in the Snow, and are buried here) we came to the great Cross and Tavern, where we began to descend. This Hill of Mount Cenis is four miles in the going up, four miles upon the Plain, and two in its descent to Novalese.
Novalese.Arriving about noon at Novalese, we dined, horsed, and went that night to Susa.
Susa.Susa, anciently Segesium, is a strong Town, and one of the gates of Italy. For this reason, the French in their late long Warr with Spain, kept it a long time in their hands; as well as Pignerola, which they still keep upon treaty, to let them into Italy when they have a mind. Its strength consists wholly in a Castle built upon a high rock close to the Town, and commanding all the passage betwixt the two Mountains. Le pas de Suse.This Town is famous in the latter History, for the smart action of the French, when they beat down the twelve several PiedmontBarriers, whereby the Duke of Savoy thought to have choaked their passage. This action is famous in history, by the name of le Pas de Suze. Here at Susa begins Piedmont.
S. Ambrosio
RivolleFrom Susa we went to S. Ambrosio, and passed by Rivolle a fine house of the Dukes, standing in good air, and at night we came to Turin.
Turin.Turin, anciently called Augusta Taurinorum, is situated in a plain, near the foot of the hills and upon the banks of the river Po, which The River Po.begins here to be navigable, and from hence carries boats to Ferrara, Chiosa and Venice. This Po is a noble river, and very large in some places,Petrus a S. Romualdo, Cro. to. i especially a little below Ferrara; yet I have read that in a great drouth which happened in the year of the world 2470 it was dryed up and rendered innavigable.
The Duke of Savoys titles and greatness.This Turin is the Seat of one of the greatest Princes in Italy, the Duke of Savoy, and Prince of Piedmont, who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale, and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia. This house of Savoy which now governs here, came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony, in the year of Christ 636, and hath conserved it self ever since, that is, for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of Heroical Princes, whose Pedegree was never vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate Off-spring. Five Emperors, and four Kings have issued out of this house.
Antiently the Dukes of Savoy kept their Court at Chambery, or else at Bourg en Bresse, a Country now belonging to France, upon exchange with the Marquisat of Saluzzo; as many of their Tombes curiously cut in Marble, in the Augustins Church there yet shew. It was Amadeo the V. of that name, Duke of Savoy, that transferred the Court to Turin. It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Grandfather Amadeo the IV, who had defended Rhodes so bravely, instituted the Knighthood of the Annunciata, with this single motto in the collar of the Order F. E. R. T. signifying, that Fortitudo Ejus Rhodum Tenuit.
His subjects.The subjects of this Prince are said to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls. His Countryes extent.His whole Country with Piedmont and all, is judged to be two hundred miles long, and fifty broad. His forces.His Forces thirty three thousand Foot, and five thousand horse: and hisRevenues Revenues to be about a million of Crowns, besides what he can now and then raise out of that fat country of Piedmont. His Interest.His Interest is, to keep well with France, and not fall out with Spain.
The Town of Turin.As for the Town it self of Turin, its almost square, and hath four gates in it, a strong Cittadel with five bastions to it; its well furnished with good provisions in the market; it stands in a fat soil, which makes it a little too durty in winter, and it is an University.
The things to be seen in Turin.The chief things which I saw here, were these.
The Holy Syndon.1. The Domo, or Great Church, in which is kept with great Devotion the Holy Syndon, in which our Saviours body was wound up and buried: of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History ad. an. 34 num. 138. Its kept in a Chappel over the High Altar and shown publickly upon certain dayes, and privately to Embassadors and Prelats, as they pass that way. The late Duchess Madame Christina, began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in, but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last. The Chappel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars: indeed winding sheets (such as this Relick is) are things of mourning, and are best set out in a mourning way.
The Citadelle.2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the Town, and keeping it in awe. This Duke and his mother found the convenience of this Cittadelle, when by Factions within the Town against them, they were forced to this Cittadelle, and there weather it out stoutly, still succour coming to them from France made them Masters again of the Town, and their enemies.
The Pallace.3. The Dukes new Pallace handsomly built with a fair Court before it, a great Piazza, and a large open street leading up it. The Chambers are fair, and hung with hangings of cloth of Tyssue, of a new and rich fabrik, with rich embroidered beds, chairs, stools, cloth of State, and Canopies. The Dutchesses Cabinet, the curious bathing place above, hung round with the true pictures in Little, of the prime Ladies of Europe. The curious invention for the Dutchess to convey herself up from her bedchamber to that bathing room, by a pully and a swing, with great ease and safety: the great Hall painted curiously: the Noble stair-case: The old Gallery.the old long Gallery 100 paces long, with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Savoy, with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble, with a rare Library locked up in great cubbords, are the chief rooms and ornaments of this Pallace. I saw also the Appartiments or lodgings of the old Dutchesse Madame Christiana, which joyn to the old Gallery, and in her Cabinet I saw many choice Pictures.
The new street.4. The new street, which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale, is a fair street, and built uniformly, The shops below afford great conveniency to the Townesmen, and the fair lodgings above to the Noblemen and Courtiers.
The Piazza Reale.5. The Piazza Reale is built handsomly upon Pillars, like our Covent Garden, and is full of nothing else but Noblemens houses.
The Augustins Church.6. The Augustins Church, called S. Carlo, standing in this Piazza, adornes it much, being a neat Church and the best contrived that I saw in this Town.
The Capucins Church.7. The Capucins Church upon a hill out of the Town, is above the rate of Capucins: but you must know who gave it, not who have it. From hence I had a perfect view of Turin, with the Country about it,
La Venerie Royale.8. Some three miles out of the Town I saw a neat house of the Dukes, called La Venery Royale. The Court set round with Staggs heads; the Chambers full of good Pictures; the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke, his Mother, his Sisters, and other Ladies all on horseback, as if they were going a hunting; the place where they keep Pheasants, Partridges, and other such like Birds, the Stable for 100 Horse, and the neat Dogkennel, are the best things to be seen in this house.
La Valentine.9. On the other side of the Town, about a mile off, I saw the old Dutchesses House called La Valentine. It stands pleasantly upon the banks of Po, and is adorned with great variety of Pictures. In five or six Roomes, on the right hand of the house, they shewed me a world of Pictures of all sorts of Flowers: on the left hand, as many of all sorts of Birds, with other Pictures curiously painted. The four pictures representing the four Elements, with all that belongs to them, as all the Birds that flie in the air; all the beasts that are found upon the earth; all the fishes and shells that are found in the water; and all things that belong to fire, are so curiously painted in their several particular shapes and colours, that these four pieces are an abridgment of all Nature, and the admiration of all that behold them. There are some other good pieces here too; as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie: the rapt of the Sabins; and divers others.
The others Houses about the Town, as Millefleur belonging to the Duke; the Villa of the Princess Marie; with divers others which shew themselves upon the Hill side, are very stately, and worth seeing.
From Turin to Genua.Having thus seen Turin, we left the ordinary road, which leads to Milan (to wit, by the way of Vercelle and Novara, two strong Towns frontier to one another, through which I passed in another Voyage) and, to avoid two Armies which lay in the way, chose to steer towards Genua by the low way of Savona. And passing through a melancholy Country by Altare and other little Towns for the space of three days, we came at last to Savona, Savona.Savona (anciently called Sabatia, or Sabatium) is the second Town, or eldest daughter of Genua; and like a good daughter indeed she stands alwayes in her mothers presence, yet keeps her distance: it being within sight of Genua, yet five and twenty miles off. It stands upon the Mediterranean Sea, or, as they call it here, upon the Riviera di Genoa. Its fortified both by Art and Nature, that is, by regular Fortifications towards the Sea, and by lusty Apennin hills towards the Land. Yet whiles Savona feared no danger from either Sea or Land, it was almost ruined in the year 1648 by Fire from heaven, to wit, lightning; which falling upon a great Tower in the midst of the Town, where Gunpowder was kept, blew it up upon a sudden, and with it threw down two hundred houses round about it, and houses of note. For, passing that way six months after, and walking among the ruines, I saw in many of the houses, which were but half fallen down, curious painted Chambers, and fine guilt roofes, which shew'd me of what house many of these houses had been; and of what weak defence guilt roofes and painted walls are against the artillery of heaven thunder and lightning.
This Town is famous in History for the interview of two great Kings here, to wit, Lewis the XII of France, and Ferdinand King of Naples. This interview passed with demonstrations of mutual civilities, not ordinary in interviews of Princes. For Lewis feared not to go into the Gallies and Ships of Ferdinand without guards and unarmed: and Ferdinand remained for many dayes together in this Town belonging then to Lewis, whom he had lately stript of the Kingdom of Naples, and beaten him to boot in a battel.
Of this Town were Julius Secundus, and Sixtus Quartus, two Popes of the house of Roueri: and two great Cardinals, Peter, and Raphael Riarii.
Embarking at Savona in a Feluca, we rowed along the Shoar (called la Riviera di Genoa) unto Genua it self; and all the way long we saw such a continual La Riviera di Genoa.Suburbs of stately Villas and Villages, that these scantlings made us in love which the whole Piece it self, Genua. I confess, I never saw a more stately abord to any City then to this: and if we had not had Genua full in our sight all the way long, we should have taken some of these stately Villages for Genua it self; and have imitated Hostingus the Leader of the Normans, who coming into Italy about the year 860 with a great Army, and finding Luna (a Town in the confines of Genua) so sumptuously built, thought really it had been Rome, and thereupon taking it,Dreido a S. Quintino, lib. I. de morib. & Act. Norman. he gloried that he had sacked the Mistriss of the World; Gratatur tenere se Monarchiam totius Imperii, per urbem quam putabat Romam, saith his Historian.
Sailing thus along this pleasant Coast, we came betimes to Genua.
Genua.Genua is one of the chief Towns that stand upon the Mediterranean Sea, and one of the best in Italy. The common Italian Proverb, calls it, Genua la Superba: and if ever I saw a Town with its Holy-day clothes alwayes on, it was Genua. It stands upon the side of a hill, and rising by degrees, appears to those that look upon it from the Sea, like an Amphitheater. The wallsHeretofore it was only fortified by Marble Bullworks, that is, great Hills of Marble which backt it up: but, some forty years ago it was environed with new walls, carrying six miles in compass, and yet finished in eighteen moneths.
The Haven.The Haven heretofore was very unsafe, and many Ships which had tugg'd through the most dangerous Seas abroad, were seen to sink here in the Haven at home; the French, then Masters of Genua, not suffering her to shut up her haven, least she should shut them out. But since she hath shaken off the French yoak, she hath locked up her Treasures, and bolted the door on the inside, by that admirable Mola, which crossing almost quite over the Bay, or, Haven, doth not onely bolt out all Enemies, but even locks up the boisterous Sea it self, and makes it tame in the Haven. Its a prodigious work, and able to have puzzel'd any two Kings in Europe to have done it.
The Pharos.At one end of this Mola stands the Pharos upon a little rock, with a Lantern upon it, to give notice, by known signes, what Ships, how many, and from what side they Come: or else to guide their own Ships home safely in the night. At first it was onely a little Fort for to help to bridle Genua, and it was built by Lewis the XII of France.
The City it self.As for the Town it self of Genua, its most beautiful to behold: many of the houses being painted on the outside, and looking as if they were turned inside out, and had their Arras hangings hung on their outsides. The tops of their houses are made with open Galleries, where the women sit together at work in clusters, and where also they dry their hair in the Sun after they have washed it in a certain wash a purpose for to make it Yellow, a colour much affected here by all women.
The StreetsThe Streets are very narrow: so that they use here few coaches, but many Sedans and Litters. This makes the noise in the streets less, and the expence in the purse smaller. But, for want of ground and earth, they make heaven pay for it; taking it out in the height of their houses, what they want in breadth or length. So that Genua looked in my eye like a proud young Lady in a straight-body'd flower'd Gown, which makes her look tall indeed and fine, but hinders her from being at her ease, and taking breath freely.
Strada Nova.Yet I must except the Strada Nova here, which for a spirt, surpasseth all the streets I ever saw any where else for neatness and proportion; and, if it had but breath enough to hold out at the same rate, a little longer, it would be the true Queen-street of Europe: Ordinary houses are so out of countenance here, that they dare not appear in this street where there's nothing but Pallaces, and Pallaces as fine as art and cost; or as Marble and Painting can make them.
Having said thus much of Genua in general, I will now come to the particulars that are to be seen in it.
The Domo.1. The Domo, or great Church of St. Laurence presents it self to my sight: Its the Cathedral of the Archbishop, who, when I passed that way last, was Cardinal Durazzo, a man of great Vertue and Piety. This Church is of a noble Structure, all of black and white Marble intermingled, and all massive square stones. In a Chappel over against the Pulpit, is kept reverently an authentick Relick of St. John Baptist, under the Altar; and the great Dish of one Emmeraud, in which they say here that our Saviour eat the Paschal Lambe with his Disciples. Both these were given to the Genuesi by Baldwin King of Hierusalem, for their great service done against the Turks in the Holy Land. Baron. ad An. i 101. n. 13.Of the Relick of St. John Baptist, Baronius speaks credibly in his Ecclesiastical History. But for the Dish of Emeraud, I find no authority for it, either in Baronius or any ancient Author, that our Saviour used it. Beda. l. de loc. sanct. c. 2.Especially seeing Venerable Beda writes, that the Dish in which our Saviour eat the Paschal Lamb was of Silver.
The Annunciata.2. After the Domo, I saw the Church of the Annunciata, which draweth up the Ladder after it for neatness. Its still in building, and not quite finished. Gli Signori Lomelini.Its thus beautified at the cost of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and Merchants of this Town who allow the third part of their gains to the adorning of this Church. The roof of it is all gilt, and set with Curious Pictures in Platfound. The Altars round about the Church, are cheeked with exquisite Pillars, and adorned with rare Pictures. The two Rows of Vast Pillars, which hold up the Roof of the Church, are so beautifull, being of a red and white Marble, that they look like Jasper, and ravish the Beholder: They are curiously wrought and chanelled.
S. Ambrosio.3. The Church of S. Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits is neatly overcrusted with marble, and guilt above in the roof. It wants a little length, for want of room to build on: it being too near the Doges Pallace, and not daring to advance a step further for fear of treading upon his heels.
S. Cyro.4. The Church of the Theatins called S. Cyro, is very handsome, with its double row of white marble Pillars, which set it out very gracefully. The Cloister also is very neat, and the Fathers very civil.
The Pallaces.5. The Pallaces here are most sumptuous. Those of the Strada Nova are the best, and the best of those is that of the Prince d'Oria: its built upon white round Marble pillars, which support its Galleries, and those Galleries let you into noble Rooms adorned with all the Abellimenti of Italian Pallaces. The other Pallaces too in this Street deserve particular mention in this my description of Genoa, and may take it ill I say nothing of them; but they must excuse my brevity, and impute the fault partly to themselves; seeing admirable things are liable to this inconvenience, that they are also inexpressable.
The Pallaces of Signori Balbi.6. I saw also the two Pallaces of the Signori Balbi, in the Street of the Annunciata. In the one whereof (on the left hand) I saw, among other rich things, a Looking Glass, valued at threescore thousand crowns. Its much of the size of those Looking-glasses, which Seneca calls specula toti corpori paria, that is, as bigg, and brittle, as those that look themselves in them. The Frame of it is all of Silver, set thick with a thousand little armed Figures, like Cupids: as if the plain Mirrour of this Looking-Glass were the plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents, and begins his Conquests over fair Ladies. The round Pillars set in the Porch of this house, and the Giuochi d'acqua in the Garden, will make themselves be taken notice of.
The Doges Pallace.7. The Pallace of the Doge, or biennial Prince here, with the several Chambers of Justice, and the Armory in it for thirty thousand The Armory.men ought to be carefully seen. In one of the great Halls of this Pallace, are been twelve Statues of white Marble, representing twelve famous men of this Town, who had rendered great service to the Commonwealth, In the foresaid Armory you see a Halberd with two Pistol barrels in the lower end of it. You see also the Armor of the Gennesian Amazons, who went to the War in the Holy Land, and carried themselves gallantly. Here's also a Cannon of Leather so light, that a man may carry it.
8. But that which is the most taking in Genua, is that which is out of Genua, I mean, the stately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena.San Pietro in Arena, where for a mile together, Villa's adorned with Marbles, Painting, Statues, Gardens, Arbors of Gelsomin, Orange, and Lemon Trees, Crotts, Ponds, Ginochi d' Acqua, Fountains, high Walls, with Shades born up by Marble Pillars, &c. compose of many Pallaces and Gardens, such a beautiful Landskip, that the whole place seemed to me, to be the Charming Paradise of the King of the Mountains anciently; and I was almost going to say, that we durst not bless our selves, least this enchanted place should have vanished. The best Villa's, or Pallaces here, are those of Hieronymo Negro, and that of the Imperiali: the first beautified with all the graces of Italian Furniture, as also with Gardens, Walks, Ponds, Water Works, Allies &c. the other, besides all these, hath an excellent Prospect; for the Master of this House can see out of one Window of it, Twelve thousand Crowns a year of his own, onely in let Houses. The other Pallaces here expect I should say something of them, and they deserve it well; but really to give them their full due, I can onely say this of them, that they ought to be seen by the eye, not described by the Pen.
The Villa of the Duke d'Oria.9. As you return from San Pietro in Arena to the Town not far from the Gates, stands the Villa, or Pallace of the Duke d'Oria. I reserved this for the last, pour faire bonne bouche. It stands upon the Sea side, and its Garden towards the Sea is built upon three rowes of white Marble Rails borne up by white Marble Pillars, which ascending by degrees, is so beautiful to behold from the Sea, that strangers passing that way to Genoa, take this garden for a second Paradise. In the midst of it stands the rare Fountain of Neptune, representing the true looks of brave Andrea D'Oria the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea, and the man who put his Country out of Livery, and taught it not to serve. All along one side of this Garden stands a Cage of Iron, about a hundred paces long; and so high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel and other Trees, clad with chirping birds of several sorts; and to make the poor Birds believe that they are rather in a wood, then in a prison, the very Cage hath put even the wood it self in prison. Then entring into the Pallace, we found it most curiously adorned with rarities and riches sutable to the Countrys humour, and the Masters purse. Its true, when this Queen of Spain passed from Germany into Spain, by the way of Milan and Genoa, the Governour of Milan told her, that she should see in d'Oria's Pallace here many fine things, but all borrowed of the Townsmen. Which d'Oria hearing of beforehand, caused to be written over the great Gates of the Pallace, where the Queen was to enter and lodge, these words in Spanish, By the Grace of God, and the Kings favour, theres nothing here borrowed. It may be, the cunning Governour of Milan thought by telling the Queen this, to oblige the Duke D'Oria to present some of his best things to the Queen, to shew her that they were his own; as its said, the late Duke of Buckingham did in France, by breaking his Diamond Hatband among the Court Ladies, who said he had onely borrowed it; but, the wise Italian by this trick, both kept his own, and yet satisfied the Queen. Indeed he hath things here both too good to be given away, and too great to he carried away: witness those rare Silver Tables which are in his Wardrobe, one whereof weigheth twenty-four thousand pound weight. From the Pallace we were led over the Street to his great Garden upon the Hill side, where all the graces that can make up a Garden, are found.
As for the Government, Fashions, Wealth, Strength, and Interest of Genua, I found them to be thus:
The Government.Their Government, is Democratical, or Popular, by a Doge (chosen every two years) and eight Senators, who live with him in the Pallace, and assist him with their counsel. The Great Council here, which is the Foundation of the Government, consists of Four hundred men chosen indifferently out of all the Families of the Town. These deliberate with the Signoria of all things that belong to War or Peace. Antiently, as I hinted before, Genoa was under the French Domination, till Andrea d'Oria set it free. Histories write of it that Berengarius the Third, and the Sarazens so ruined Genua, that they left it swimming in its own blood: Which ruin was forewarned by a prodigie of a fountain of blood which ran in the very streets of Genua. It had like to have swamme a second time in its blood, when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua victoriously with sword in hand, threatning the utter ruin of that people, was pacified by the mournful cries of four thousand little Children, who clad in sackcloth and placed in the great Piazza cryed out to the King in a piercing accent, Misericordia e Pieta, Mercy and Pity. But since Genua shook off the French Yoke, it hath lived perpetually jealous of the French, especially since it discovered, some years past, divers attempts of France against it, whilest the French had Portolongone and Piombino.
Their Fashions.For this reason, the Genuesi lean much to the Spanish Faction, and Fashions following Faction, they lean also much to the Spanish Fashion both in humor and apparel. Hence I found here Broad Hats without Hatbands, broad Leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow Breeches with long-wasted Doublets and hanging-sleeves, to be a la mode, as well as in Madrid. And I found all the great Ladies here to go like the Donnas of Spain in Guardinfantas, that is, in horrible overgrown Fartingals of whalebone, which being put about the waste of the Lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with her hands, bear out her Coats in such a huffing manner, that she appears to be as broad as long. So that the men here with their little close Breeches, looked like Tumblers that leap through the houps: and the women like those that danced anciently the Hobby-horse in country Mummings. Two of these Ladies meeting one another in these narrow streets, make as great an Embarras, as two Carts of Hay do upon London Bridge: and I have seen their Ladiships strangely puzzled how to juggle themselves into a narrow Sedan, or Littar: indeed half of my Lady hangs out. For my part I admire that this jealous Republick doth not fear, least some of these Ladies (upon a disgust) should carry a set of little short Guns under her Coats, and under pretence of preferring a Petition to the Senate assembled, give them a broad-side or two, and make a horrible confusion in the Republick. If all this Bulk of Clothes, which make the women here look like Haycocks with armes and heads, be allowed them by their wise husbands, to render them more visible, and less able to go privately into any suspected houses, its good policy: otherwise, most certain it is, that the wives gownes cheat horribly the Husbands breeches of almost all the stuff. Guardinfanta signifies a Child-preserverI have onely heard (and it was from a Nobleman of Genoa) of one Lady here that made right use of these Guardinfantas; and it was she, who seeing her onely Son (a young Nobleman of Genoa about eighteen years old) already condemned to prison, and ready to be condemned to the Scaffold for a heinous crime, got leave to visit him in prison as often as she pleased; and at last, by means of a good Guardinfanta of Steel, instead of Whale-bone, she took up her Son under her Coats in that Guardinfanta, and marching out of the prison gravely, as she used to do, by leaning upon two ancient Women, as the Fashion is here for great Ladies to do, she carried him home so; and being there delivered of him a second time, without a Midwife, she sent him presently out of the Countrey to be nursed and kept. Thus she saved her Families honour. Was not this a true Guardinfanta, which preserved thus the life of a Child? But was not this also a gallant Mother that went with a Child who was full eighteen years old when his Mother bore him? The onely pity was, that this gallant Mother had not the happiness once to be Mother of a gallant Son, seeing she had had the trouble of bringing forth such a Son twice.
Their Riches.As for their Riches, I am told they passe not a Million and two hundred thousand Crowns a year. Indeed the King of Spain Philip the II above a hundred years ago, borrowed of this Republick the sum of eleven Millions, and keeps them still in his hands, to keep this Republick in awe; yet paying the interest duly unto them. So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice, though the particular men here are farr richer then those of Venice. They have great Trading both with France and Spain, and are great Banquiers, making the Change in all the Bancks of Europe go as they please. Besides, they utter a world of Taffetas, Velvets, Sattins, Points of needle work, and divers other things of Value.
Their Strength.As for their Strength, its enough to defend themselves, scarce enough to offend others. For Genoa is back'd up by the Apennins, where all passages are easily made good against Invaders; and it is so well fortified on the other side by the Sea it self, twelve or fourteen good Gallies, twenty Ships of Warr, and its incomparable Molo, that they could scuffle notably in their own defence. Besides, Genoa is fortified not onely with its Hills and Sea, but also with its new walls and bullworks of stone; nay, and with its Bone-walls too, that is, with a Lacedemonian wall of a world of Inhabitants, and with the Illustrious Families of d'Oria, Spinola, Grimaldi Sauli, Durazzi, Catanei, and others, whose several names would go almost for several Armies. Yet for a need, they can raise thirty thousand men, and arme them well out of their Arsenal. I confess heretofore they were strong enough to offend others; for they made warr against the Pisani, and worsted them: They set also upon the Island of Corsica, distant from Genoa about a hundred miles, and took it. This Island gave the Republike of Genoa more honour then profit: for, it being once a Kingdom, gives still to Genoa the Title of Serenissima, and a Close Regal Crown over its Coat of Armes. In fine, the Genoesi were strong enough heretofore, to lend great succors to Godfrey of Bullen in his holy Conquest of Hierusalem. Hence upon the very Arca of the Holy Sepulcher in Hierusalem, are written these words: Præpotens Genoensium præsidium.
Their Interest.As for their Interest, it seemed to me to be farr more Spanish then French, by reason of the great profit they draw from Spain, which corresponds with the rich State of Milan in Men and Moneys, by means of the Genoesi: yet they are well with all Christian Princes, except with the Duke of Savoy who pretends to Savona.
Their learned men.As for the Learned men of this Town, I find them not to be so many. The rich Banquier is more esteemed here, then the learned Divine. Yet I find here also some famous for learning, to wit, Baptista Fregosus, or Fulgosus, who for his singular parts being chosen Doge of Genoa, and by his own disloyal kindred chased from Government and country, comforted himself in his studies; and having observed many particular things in History, he reduced them to heads, and left us a just volume of Memorable Sayings and Deeds of the Ancients: for which work he is stiled by Alberto Leandro, the Valerius Maximus of Italy. He wrote in Italian, and dedicated his Book to his Son. The other Learned men of this Town are Justinianus, Balus, Mascardi, and Christopher Columbus.
Genoa also hath given to the Church three Popes, Adrian the V. Innocent the IV, and Innocent the VIII.
The Academy of Wits.Here is an Academy of Wits called the Adormentati; which together with the other Academies of the like nature in all the Townes of Italy, I would wish my Traveller to visit particularly, that he may see how farr the Italians excel us, in passing their time well; and how its much better to spend the week in making of Orations and Verses, then in drinking of Ale and smoaking of Tobacco.
Their Historian.He that desires to know more of Genoa, let him read Augustinus Justinianus of the History of Genoa.
Having spent six dayes in Genoa, we agreed with an honest Vetturino to conduct us to Milan, which is about four little dayes journey from hence.Monserat In another voyage I went from Genoa to Turin by Monserrat, and saw in my way Novi (of which by and by) Trino, Cassale one of the strongest places of Italy,Cassale. having a strong Cittadelle, a strong Castle, strong Town-walls and ditches; and Alexandria della paglia, a strong Town standing upon the Po.
Alexandria.But now at this time leaving Genoa, and intending for Milan, we rid through San Pietro d'Arena, by the Carthusians Monastery, over the Appennin Hills, and in a day and a half came to Novi.
Novi.Novi is a little strong Town belonging to the Genoesi, and Frontier to the Milanesi. Its some twelve Miles distant from Tortona, the first frontire Town of the State of Milan: and because these Frontiers were then pester'd with Bandits, a Nobleman of Genoa, who was in our company, begg'd of the Governour of Novi, a Convoy for himself and us, to secure us to Tortona: The Governor presently granted us a Convoy of eight or ten horsemen: but, those very men he gave us for our Convoy, were Bandits themselves, who being banished from the State and Town of Genoa for their misdemeanours, had two Moneths a year allowed them to come freely into Frontier Towns, and negotiate with the State. These men were thought by the Governour to be our safest Guards in danger, who were the onely men that caused danger. Having been thus convoyed safely by our honest Rogues past all danger, we payed them some three Pistoles; and feared no more danger, till we should meet with such servants as these another time. I confess, it seemed at first à fearful thing, to see our selves in the hands of those, who had their hands often in blood: yet there is such a charme in a Governours Parole, that we thought our selves as well armed with it, as if we had been shot-free, and had had all the Spells of Lapland about us.
Tortona.We had no sooner parted from these our Guards, but passing over a little River on Horseback, we entred into the Milanese, and came at night to Tortona a strong frontier Town of the Milanese, where Charles the VIII of France, in his return from the Conquest of Naples, beat the Venetians and the Milanesi in a battel.
Pavia.From Tortana we went the next day to Pavia, the second Town of the State of Milan, and once the Seat of twelve Kings of the Longobards. It stands upon the River Ticinum, and hence its also called in Latin Ticinum.Ticinum. Heres an University, either founded or furnished at first, with Readers, or by Readers of the University of Oxford. The chief Colledges are, that of Pius Quintus, and that of S. Charles Boromæus. The other remarkable things here, are. The Domo.1. The Domo, in which lieth buried the body of a holy Bishop of this Town, called Sauli, who was contemporary to S. Charles Borromæus and of the same Pastoral spirit and zeal. Near the great door of this Church (on the inside) they shew you a little Mast of a Boat which they make ignorant people believe (for sport) to have been the Lance of Orlando Furioso.
The Equestris Statua of Antoninus.2. Near the Domo, in the Piazza, stands a Brazen Statue, which some affirm to be the Statue of Constantine the Great? others, more probably, of Antoninus Pius. It was brought from Ravenna hither by Victory; and it had like to have been carried back again to Ravenna by Victory. For Lotrech the French General in the taking of this Town, having granted this Statue to a Souldier of Ravenna (who served under him, and who having mounted the Breach first, asked nothing for his recompence but that Statue, taken anciently from his Native Town) Yet afterwards moved with the generosity of the Townsmen (who having left all things else with some patience, to the prey of the Souldiers, burst into Tears, when they heard that this Statue was to be taken from them) Lotrech changed his guift to the Souldier, and left the Citizens of Pavia their dear Statue.
S. Augustins body.3. I saw the Augustins Church, where the body of that great Father of the Church S. Augustin lieth buried. It was translated hither out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Longobards; Baron. an. 925an arme of which S. Augustin a King of England Baron. an. 1025.redeemed at a great rate, and yet cheap too, if it were his writing arme, wherewith he wrote such admirable Books. The new Tombe in the Sacristy is all of white marble most exquisitly carved with historical statues representing the most remarkable actions of that Doctor.
The Tombe of Severinus Boetius4. In the same Church we were shown the Tombe of Severinus Boetius author of that great little Book de Consolatione Philosophica, which he wrote in his exile, to comfort himself. He was a Consul of Rome for dignity, See Baron. an. 525.an other S. Denys for learning and losing his head; and held a Martyr by many.
5. In the Cloister of this Convent of the Augustins, lie buried two Englishmen of note, the Duke of Suffolk, and an English Bishop called Parker, of the house of Morley, read their several Epitaphs upon the wall of this Cloister near the little door that goes from hence into the Church, but have forgot them since.
6. The Chappel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Battel of Pavia are kept and shown to strangers.
7. In the Franciscans Church here, lies buried Baldus the famous Jurisconsult.
8. The long wodden-Bridge covered over head with a perpetual Penthouse, to defend men as well from the Sun, as from the Rain.
Learned men.Of this Town were Ennodius Ticinensis, and Lanfrancus Archbishop of Canterbury, who wrote so learnedly against Berengarius for the Real Presence.
The Historians.He that desires to know the particular history of Pavia, let him read Antonio Spelta, and Sacco.
From Pavia we went to Milan, some twenty miles off; and in the way, saw the famous Monastery of the Carthusians, near unto which, upon S. Mathias his day (a day favourable to Charles the V, seeing he was borne on that day; crowned Emperour on that day; and got this Victory on that day) was fought that memorable BattelThe Battel of Pavia. between the said Emperours Forces, and the French King, an. 1525. where Francis the I. of France was taken Prisoner, having lost the day, not for want of courage, but conduct: for he had a little before, sent away half of his Army to the conquest of Naples; by which he so weakened the rest of his Army here, that he both lost the day, and did nothing against the Kingdom of Naples; a great fault, observed by one that was present there,See Monlukes Commentaries. to wit, Monsieur Monluc. Francis being thus taken prisoner, was presently conducted to the Carthusians Monastery, which was hard by. Entering into the Church, and finding the Monks singing in the third hour this verse of the Psalme, Coagulatum est sicut lac cor eorum, ego vero legem tuam meditatus sum, he struck up with them at the next verse, and Sung aloud with a piety as great, as his loss, or courage, Bonum mihi quia humiliasti me, ut discam justificationes tuas: that is, its well for me that thou hast humbled me, that I may learn thy Justifications. After he had heard Mass here, he was carried to Dinner in the Monastery and was served by three Generals of the Spanish Army, Launoy, Bourbon, and the Marquis of Vasti: the one holding the basin, the second pouring water upon his hands; and the third presenting him the towel. Some say he refused to be served by Bourbon, looking upon him as a revolted Traytor, rather then as an enemy: indeed the brave Frënch Knight Bayard (sirnamed, the Chevalier sans peur, who died in this Battlel,) being found expiring in the Field, by Bourbon, who said to him, Poor Bayard! I pitty thee; answered him with all the courage and life that was left him; No, Traytor, I am not to be pittyed, who dye nobly serving my King and Country: but thou rather art to be pittied, who