The Youth's Companion/July 19, 1860/Travels by Sea and Land

For the Youth’s Companion.
Travels by Sea and Land

Ship Fairthorn, Straits of Gibraltar.

My Dear Companion:—There was early rising among the passengers on board the ship Fairthorn this morning, for the cry of “land ho!” was heard from the mast-head before day-break. The mate had told Charles that we should sight land by 12 o’clock last night, and so he begged permission to wrap himself up in his great coat and sit up until then. As the moon was shining brightly, I consented.

But these sailor predictions, like those made about the weather at home, never come to pass at the right time, so, completely wearied out, Charles had to creep into his berth about half past twelve, without a single glimpse of “terra firma.”

In consequence, he was a little later than the rest of us, out on deck, and while we all stood silently admiring the high, dark promontories on the African Coast, with our hearts light, and our eyes filled with glad tears, he, poor fellow, had to lean over the ship’s side and relieve his heaving stomach, he was so sea-sick.

“Oh! fie, Charley!” said the Captain, “to give the Old World such a welcome as that!”

“It is too bad, sir,” said Charles, “but really I can’t help it.”

“Patient waiters are no losers,” added Mary, playfully.

We were now at the entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar. For the first time since we left Boston, the Star-spangled banner of “Columbia’s happy land,” floated gayly at the mast-head, and it was interesting to remember, that it was through these very waters Columbus sailed on his wonderful voyage of discovery.

As the day wore on, Cape Trafalgar on the Spanish Coast, came into view. It was in the waters of this Cape that Nelson’s last great battle was fought. Sixty ships sent their heavy cannonading into each other’s sides, until, with an immense loss of life, England was proclaimed the victor. “England expects every man to do his duty,” said Nelson to his men. These few words fired their ambition, and made the before doubtful combat, a complete success.

This was Nelson’s hundredth battle, and in this, he received his death-wound. To-day, the waters leaped merrily about us, as though they had never been red with the blood of the slain. The sun shone brightly, lighting up the wild, romantic, looking hills, with a rich beauty. One would never have dreamed, that agony such as that day saw, had ever darkened a scene so fair.

Sailing up to Gibraltar, we had on both sides of us, a grand and lovely prospect. A thin, purple haze, such as you may often have noticed in paintings, half-veiled the shore, and yet made it even more charming. All along the coast on the lonely headlands, we saw the watch-towers which the Moors are said to have built. You know they once held Spain.

But the view of Gibraltar itself, was the crowning picture of the day. Imagine a mountain of solid rock, standing out into the sea, with a large city and heavy fortifications at its base, a bright sky overhead, and the white, dashing foam, all around the rocky shore, leaping up and singing its wild surging song, and you will understand why Gibraltar is worth crossing the ocean to see. There is a high, rocky promontory, on the opposite shore of the Strait, on whoso summit is “Ceuta,” which is said to be the most cruel of the Spanish Prisons.

Do you remember hearing of Lopez, who, with a small army, attempted to raise a rebellion in Cuba, which should make the island free from its present government? Well, some of his followers, or soldiers, rather, are shut up in this prison. It made my heart ache to look at its white walls, and think of the misery within them.

These promontories of Ceuta and Gibraltar, are the famous Pillars of Hercules, mentioned in Ancient History.

You may not know that this great fortress of Gibraltar is in the hands of the English. I suppose it is better for American shipping that it is so, but yet it seems rather hard that it has been taken away from Spain, to whom it rightfully belongs. It is the strongest and most important fortress in the world. England has not obtained her foothold here, without hard struggles. The Spanish and French together tried to take it from her, about the time of the American Revolution. They besieged it for four years. One battle alone, cost them over a million of dollars. There was one English boy in the Fort at the time of this attack, whose eyesight was so remarkable, that he could follow the course of the enemy’s shell in the air, until it was about to fall, and then give warning to the British soldiers, in time for them to escape from danger. The attack, however, was not successful, and England has held Gibraltar in peace ever since.

The Captain “tacked ship” and went up into the Bay of Gibraltar to give us a nearer view of the city. We saw elegant dwellings, with spacious grounds around them,—saw tier on tier of flat roofed stone houses; (for the city is built on a slope, whether of rock or earth, I do not know,)—saw the soldier’s barracks; the sentinels in their stone boxes; and much more that I have neither the power, nor the time to describe.

I am writing all this by lamp-light. There is a good deal of motion to the ship just now, for we are sailing at the rate of nine knots an hour.

We expect to cast anchor in Malaga harbor before morning. Weary, but thankful, that our feet are so soon to stand again on solid earth. I close this, the last of my letters from the good ship Fairthorn.

Aunt Redi ———.