CHAPTER XI.
on the rio negro.
Difficulties of Starting — Descending the Falls — Catching an Alligator — Tame Parrots — A Fortnight in Barra — Frei Jozé's Diplomacy — Picklinga Cow-Fish — A River Storm — Brazilian Veracity — Wanawáca — Productiveness of the Country — A Large Snake — São Gabriel — São Joaquim — Fever and Ague.
At length, on the 1st of September, after another week's delay, having succeeded in procuring two more Indians and a pilot, I left on my long-desired voyage. One Indian I could only persuade to go, by sending four others to assist him for three days in clearing his mandiocca rhossa, without doing which he would not leave. My canoe went fully loaded, as I took a quantity of farinha and miscellaneous goods for Senhor L., and I had some little fear of the passage of the falls, which was not diminished by my pilot's being completely stupefied with his parting libations of caxirí. He was also rather fearful, saying, that the canoe was overloaded, and that he did not know the channel well below São Gabriel; and that from there to Camanaú I must get another pilot.
The rapids, before arriving at Sāio Gabriel, are not very dangerous, and much to my satisfaction we arrived there in safety, about four in the afternoon. We there partially unloaded, to pass the narrow channel at the Fort, which was also accomplished with safety; though not without danger at one point, where the canoe got out of the proper course, and the waves dashed in rather fearfully. I then succeeded in agreeing with a good pilot to take us down the next morning, and was much relieved by his informing me, that, the river being very . full, the falls were not dangerous, and the canoe would pass with perfect safety without more unloading. J therefore will-
