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CONTENTS
iii
Departure from Tangier―Ordered to the Canary islands―A Touch of Sentiment on Leaving Familiar Scenes―Set Sail at Tangier for Cadiz―La Taza di Plata―The Bay of Cadiz―Marketing at Sea―Appearance of the Town from the Ship―The Fortifications―Gay and Busy Aspect of the Streets―The Balconies and their Occupants―One Advantage of Narrow Streets―Shopkeepers of all Nations―Smith and Jones in Cadiz―Calesas and Mules―The Attraction of the Cigar―The Naval Arsenal―The Cathedral―The Deserted Bull-ring―The Old Capuchin Convent―Murillo's Last Work―The Melancholy Death of the Great Painter―The Society of Cadiz―Its Devotion to Business―Termination of Our Short Visit―The Crowded Steamer for Seville―Spanish Ladies Travel with all their Finery―Bonnets on the Back of the Head―The Ladies' Cigarette―Coarse Appearance of Old Spanish Women―Showy Dress and Dark Complexions of the Men―Theatrical Appearance of the Children―The Scenery on its Banks―Its Many Windings―Pictures of Bull-fights―Strange Preparations for Breakfast―The Captain's Opinion of English Sailors. . . . 104
Conversation with the Scotch Engineer―Scotch and Spanish Engineers―Mrs. Dolores McFarlane―Springs of the Thistle and Olive―An Obliging Offer―Distant View of Seville―The Giralda―Land at the Public Promenade―Las Delicias―Our Luggage Examined by Custom-House Officers, Priests Beggars and Boys―The Annoyance of Landing in a Strange Town―Services offered to "Milor" Smith―Marshalled through the Streets by a Cicerone―The Many-Coloured Awnings―The Calle del Sol―The "Refresco" Booths―Their Gaudy Appearance―The Numerous Customers―Estimation in which the English are held―English Money highly valued―Seville by Night―Brilliant Appearance of the Illuminated Patio―Family Reunions―The Guitar, Castanet, and Seguidilla―The Architecture of Seville―Strange Union of Different Styles―Irregularity of the Streets and Houses―The Hotel Full―Put ourselves under the Direction of the Steward―Taken to a Sorry Boarding House―Good Accommodation according to Spanish Ideas―The Miseries of a Night. . . . . . . 125
