Page:Sixteen years of an artist's life in Morocco, Spain and the Canary Islands.djvu/7

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CONTENTS
A Spanish Family Scene―Music hath Charms―A Spanish Woman en Déshabille―A Novel Breakfast Scene―Doña Dolores―Spanish Names―Lady Oracle―A Simple Toilet―The Marine Officer at Ease in his Inn―His Politeness to his Fellow-Guests―The Favoured Boarder―Don Fernando, the Government Employé―Promotion to Brevet Rank―La Consula Inglesa―Ignorance regarding England―Ludicrous Questions―The Padre forms a Good Opinion of Me―The Archbishop of Canterbury and the Chief Rabbi―Marriage of the Clergy―The Numerous Nephews and Nieces of Spanish Churchmen―Englishmen after Dinner―Sweetmeats and Scratching―Another Salle-à-Manger Proposed―Heat of the Weather―Dinner Interrupted by a Storm―The Patio Deluged―The Company Retire to my Bedroom―Garlic and Tobacco Smoke―A Happy Deliverance―Spanish Gipsies―Departure of my Fellow-Lodgers―Doña Dolores and Aña Bolena―The Boarding-Houses of Seville―John Bull Abroad. . . 143
The Sights of Seville―The Cathedral―The Paintings of Murillo―“The Guardian Angel”―Painted Figures of Wood―The Madonna of Montañes―Careless Deportment of the Spaniards in the Cathedral―Country People Telling their Beads―Beggars―Mendicant Priests―The Coro―The Retablo―High Mass―The Devotion of the Senses―Englishmen in the Cathedral―San Cristofar with the Infant Saviour―Tomb of Saint Ferdinand―Monument to the Son of Columbus―Relics―Cross Made of the First Gold Brought from America―The Custodia―Picture of the Descent from the Cross―The Admiration with which it inspired Murillo―The Two Keys―The Priestly Vestments―Extraordinary Religious Ceremony―Rev. Mr. Dubarry's Account of it―Origin of the Custom―An Archbishop Appeals to the Pope against Dancing in the Church―The Pope Witnesses and Approves of the Ceremony. . . . . . . . . . 163

Life Abroad―No Place Like Home―The Penny Post―The Times―The Ship from England―Removal to the Canaries―Distant View of the Peak of Teneriffe―Approach to the Island―Names of the Canary Islands―Santa Cruz―The Rocks of Paso Alto―Volcanic Origin of the Island―The Euphorbia Canariensis―The Young Woman of Santa Cruz―Her