REMARKS
On Want of Success from Change of Locality.
It has already been stated that a brewer, on going from one brewhouse to another, often finds it impossible to produce beer which is equally good in his new situation. This has been found to be the case even when all the materials have been furnished from the same stock. How is this to be accounted for? In days of yore it was attributed to witchcraft, and even now there are many who cannot otherwise account for it. Chemistry has, however, superseded witchcraft, in every process dependent upon its own laws. The process of brewing being strictly chemical from beginning to end, must be subservient to the laws of chemistry, and until these laws are understood and applied, no uniformity can be expected. In some chemical processes, the slightest variation will produce very different results. By using vessels made of certain improper materials in some chemical processes, it is possible to compound deadly poisons, instead of wholesome medicines. May not the same, to a certain extent, be true in the brewery? If we find that in one brewhouse, constructed in a certain way, every thing succeeds, while in others, differently constructed, nothing will succeed, have we not a right to suppose that this must be owing to the different construction of the said brewhouses? and that, therefore, the process of brewing must be pursued with reference to the proper chemical laws, in every respect the same as in producing the nicest chemical compounds.
Now, however, nothing is attended to in the construction of brewhouses but saving manual labour; by the introduction of a multiplicity of metal pipes, to prevent the possibility of any waste in the beer. We think enough has already been advanced in the chapter on Electricity, to point out the injurious effects of mixtures of metals in the construction of brewing utensils; and we have little doubt that a great proportion of the inferior beer which we now see, is produced by the electro-chemical action, proceeding from the above-mentioned mixture of metals. As brewing, therefore, is a strictly chemical process, the laws of chemistry, by which it can alone be safely directed, should be much better understood than they have hitherto been by all connected with the trade. There can be little doubt but that the art of brewing, like other arts, will hereafter be conducted on such scientific principles as may render it as independent of chance, accident, or locality, to which much importance is erroneously attached, as other arts in which the proper means have been adopted to acquire successful uniformity.
We often hear locality quoted as the only reason which can be assigned, that better beer is brewed in one district of the country than in others. Locality, so far as malt is concerned, may no doubt have an influence; some districts produce much finer qualities of barley than others, and of course, much finer and better-flavoured malt. The flavour of beer must of course depend on the quality of the materials which may be used in manufacturing it, and also on the mode of manufacturing it. No further importance, however, can be attached to locality; as we can always in any place find water sufficiently fit for brewing, and by a proper construction of the form our own locality, as often has been and can again at any time be proved.
DRUGS.
Although, generally speaking, we object to all drugs in brewing, it would be folly to suppose that we may not occasionally find the benefit of resorting to such simple chemical remedies as may be found necessary, for properly cleansing the utensils, and removing unsoundness. Some distinct chemical knowledge is therefore necessary, as we might otherwise employ deleterious substances for these purposes. The practice of drugging is now rarely employed; and we know, that in London, no respectable house will, on any account, permit it. We have reason to think, however, that some country brewers are not so scrupulous; but are often over persuaded by ignorant quacks, to make use of such drugs as they may recommend, for the purpose of giving flavours. One drug is represented to make the beer keep, a very desirable object; and others are said to confer fine flavours, vinosity, &c. &c. Others, and those very various, are famed for giving the London porter flavour; and the ignorant brewer is induced to use them, from being told by those quacks that the great London houses do the same. We can assure these mistaken persons, however, that no great London house uses, now-a-days, any ingredient disallowed by law; and that no other flavour is given than what is produced by malt and hops.
When harmless ingredients are used for giving flavours, they cannot be particularly condemned: they however subject the brewer, when discovered, to the penalties of the law; and on every account are rather to be avoided. When such drugs as cocculus Indicus, opium, tobacco, &c. &c. are used for giving a stupifying quality to the beer, every brewer using them must know, that besides subjecting himself to heavy penalties, he is doing gross injustice to the public.
It is generally supposed that the finest ale cannot be brewed without flavouring matter. This, however, is quite a mistake. The flavour of the finest Burton, Scotch, and other ales, proceeds chiefly from the care taken in selecting the best malt and hops, and the high gravities of the worts. These ales are from forty to forty-five lbs. per barrel gravity, by Long’s instrument, or 1.111 to 1.125 specific gravity, by Allan’s or Bates’. Whenever the gravities of worts exceed forty, a much richer flavour is produced than at lower densities. This accounts for the superiority of high-priced ales.
Any brewer using ingredients disallowed by law, subjects himself to information from any of his servants, who must no doubt discover it, and thus loses all command over them.
No respectable house, therefore, will now run any such risks, and we would strongly recommend it to all, never to be influenced by the opinions of ignorant quacks, who, knowing nothing about the matter, care only for their own interest.
Heading.
There is, however, one ingredient, called heading, that gives to porter a fine frothy top, which adheres to the pot or glass, when pouring out, or drinking the beer. It is sulphate of iron, commonly called salt of steel, which, when applied in such small quantities as will have the desired effect, can do no harm. One ounce of this is enough for four barrels; or one quarter of an ounce to a barrel.
This heading also imparts to the beer a sharpness in taste, generally liked by porter drinkers. The law, however, has imposed severe penalties on the use of it, and a test is applied for detecting its presence. The test alluded to is the red ferro-cyanide of potassium. As it is not a substitute for either malt or hops, and as people generally prefer porter carrying a good head, there can be no good reason for its being so severely prohibited.
Of Mixing Beers.
The process of mixing beers is technically denominated "marrying" them. This process is seldom attempted with mild ales, but with the more hardy beer called porter, it is very generally practised. Mild beer is now become the order of the day; and old beer, excepting when mixed with new, is seldom drunk. The uncertainty of brewing, the reasons of which we have attempted to explain, occasions a great deal of beer to be returned by the publicans to the brewer, principally in summer. These returns are stowed in vats, where they are allowed to remain until they are thought to be in a fit condition to be mixed with mild new beers, the only way by which they can be got rid of. This is occasionally done by breaking the old beers into the gyle-tuns with the worts, while in a state of fermentation, which is a very dangerous mode of working: for if the fermentation should be in the least degree languid, the addition will make it more so, and the whole gyle, or brewing, will be unfit to be sent out. This injudicious plan has sometimes been followed to such an extent, as to block up the brewer; that is to say, he at last accumulates such a quantity of unsaleable beer, as not to leave room for brewing any more, until, perhaps, he has been obliged to turn some of his stock down the kennel. Others break their old beer into the breaking batch (or vessel into which the porter is run before being pumped into the vats) with the mild beer. This mode of Working may also be unsafe; for unless the fermentation has been vigorous and healthy, and the old beer brought into a fit state for mixing, no combination will take place; the beer will retain a double flavour, and be occasionally unfit to be sent out, unless by being brought into proper condition, and again mixed off with mild beer. From the above remarks, it will be seen that marrying or mixing beers is a very dangerous process, unless when thoroughly understood by the operator.
Old beer can never be in a proper state for mixing off, unless when brought round (as it is called) for that purpose. This can only be done by again bringing it into a state of fermentation in the vat: after which, if properly treated, it will generally become bright and sparkling; that is to say, if it has not got so bad as to be totally irrecoverable, or unfit for use in any way excepting in making blacking. It will then at once combine with any sound mild beer, and, instead of injuring, will improve the flavour. Judiciously to bring on the above-mentioned fermentation in the vat, and at the same time so as not to carry it too far, requires a good deal of skill, and can only be accomplished by those who have been accustomed to such management. Where the process of fermentation is properly and scientifically conducted, these artifices, rendered necessary generally, by neglect or ignorance, will seldom be required.
STORING AND KEEPING BEER.
The best and most proper mode of storing and keeping beer is well worthy of the greatest attention. There are, however, many contradictory opinions upon this subject. Some think that all beer, but particularly ale, should be flattened, as it is called, before being stored in vats or casks. For this purpose, where slow fermentation and skimming are practised, large open vessels or tanks are provided, into which the beer is run, after having been a sufficient time, as it is considered, in the gyle or fermenting tun. The ale or beer is allowed to remain in these vessels for a longer or shorter time according to the fancy of the brewer or storehouse-man. It is during this period imbibing oxygen from the atmosphere, and sometimes is allowed to remain there until acidification has distinctly commenced, as indicated by white spots appearing on the surface, and by an increase of temperature. The brewer who adopts this practice, thinks the beer is so much flattened as to prevent its fretting in the vat. It will be found, however, that although the beer, from some little decrease in temperature by its removal, may be quiet enough for a time, yet the least increase of heat or exposure to the atmosphere, will again set it in motion; when, by getting on the fret, acidity may be produced. It never can be thoroughly sound, and will very soon become flat in drawing. It will also be found that when beer has been too long flattened in this way, before being stowed in casks, it will very soon get flat and forward when in draught in the publicans’ cellars.
This, therefore, must be a very erroneous mode of treating beer. Some brewers, who have no tanks for the purpose, pump their beer from the cleansing casks again into a fermenting-tun, where it is often allowed to remain until the same indications of acidity, as above mentioned, may have taken place, when the same bad consequences may be dreaded. One great complaint is, that though ale tastes very well when first tapped, yet it very soon gets flat and forward, and will not stand the draught. How can it, we may ask, when acidification has previously commenced by long exposure to the atmosphere?
We think enough has been said to prove that long exposure of beer to the atmosphere is the worst mode of treating it. The laws of chemical science, not less than the facts, establish this conclusion.
When beer of any kind has gone through a regular and sound process of fermentation, and has had time to throw off its yeast, and get quiet, which will always happen in a few days; any further exposure to the atmosphere is not only useless, but injurious.
It should, if sufficiently cool, (say about 52° F., which all stock beer must be on the third day after cleansing, when brewed in proper season,) be pumped into the vat; the bottoms which are pumped over along with it, will soon fall down, proving rather a preservative than otherwise. The vats, when full, should be covered, and sand thrown on the cover, more effectually to exclude the atmosphere. A loaded self-acting vent-peg fixed in the top, would, however, be very desirable, so as to permit any elastic gas which may be produced to escape.
If the storehouse can now be kept at a regular temperature, no other precaution is necessary; but when liable to be affected by summer heats, the sand on the top of the vats should be sprinkled with common salt, which retains the moisture, and also be kept damp with water. This by evaporation will tend to keep the beer cool. When the beer, instead of being vatted, has to be stowed in casks proper for sending out, they should be conveyed to the storehouse, and placed upon wooden bearers; then, instead of the bung-holes being left open, which is the common practice, bungs should be inserted slightly, so as to be easily thrown out if necessary. Holes should also be bored into every cask, either through or near the bung, and spiles or pegs inserted, so as at any time to give vent, should that be required. After having given vent, however, the bungs or pegs should be immediately replaced. By this treatment the beer, if properly brewed, will very soon become quiet, and if not exposed to higher temperatures, will require no further attention until it is sent out.
ON THE WANT OF UNIFORMITY IN THE QUALITY OF BEER: ITS CAUSES, AND HOW TO BE AVOIDED.
London has always been celebrated for the peculiar flavour and excellence of its porter; for a long time it was supposed that this was mainly attributable to its being brewed with the water from the Thames; but as Thames water has for a long time ceased to be used in brewing it, that supposition has been abandoned. As each establishment, however, has its own peculiar flavour, and differing in some respects from all others, it becomes difficult to say which is the right London flavour; and we greatly doubt whether any jury of twelve would agree upon this point: each would, very likely, give the preference to that he had been most accustomed to.
This variety of flavour is produced partly by the different grists used in brewing,—some using blowen malts for colour and flavour, others roasted malt only, for the same purpose; and perhaps, also, from the different modes of fermentation which may have been adopted by each, but certainly not from the use of drugs, which has been often supposed.
It was afterwards imagined, that what was called the real porter flavour, could only be acquired by brewing it in large quantities at a time. As it has now been proved, however, that porter as good at least, can be made on a small scale as a large, that prejudice also has been done away with. Although we entirely disclaim all intention of giving offence to any one in particular, it is impossible to avoid remarking on the want of uniformity, and the inequality of the beer now generally produced, and which of late years have been so generally complained of by the public. In our article on Electricity, it is, we believe, pretty well proved by facts given from actual practice, that voltaic or electrochemical action, is injurious to beer in every stage of its manufacture, but particularly so while undergoing the process of fermentation, as can be easily ascertained by the litmus test which indicates acidity. Indeed, it can be proved by the same test, that an increase of acid is often generated in the gyle-tun, and hence the tendency to increased acidity, when the beer is afterwards put on draught in the publican’s cellar.
There can be no doubt, therefore, that whereever the gyle-tuns are embedded in the ground, great uncertainty must accrue from the frequent electrical changes of the earth and atmosphere. The same uncertainty will exist when the gyle or fermenting tuns are lined with different metals; but when chains of pipes called mains, consisting of various metals, are connected with the gyle-tuns and cleansing casks, the positive electro-chemical action must be such as invariably to produce acidity to a certain extent during its fermentation, and thus cause the injurious effects above mentioned. This injurious effect is shown by the light yeasty heads rising to an uncontrollable extent (no close yeasty heads can ever be attained). This, however, is thought by some to be a sure indication of a fine, healthy, and vigorous fermentation; instead of which, however, it will be found that such a degree of acidity is then being generated as will prevent the beer from keeping, as it is technically called, nor can it ever arrive to be what is called really sound old—an article now as difficult to be obtained as it is much wanted.
Such are causes enough for the actual uncertainty in the quality of beer, and sufficient also to lead to the returns of those large quantities upon the brewer, which, in order to get rid of, must afterwards be mixed or married with other beer, thereby deteriorating its quality, even were it otherwise previously good.
When beer of the above description is exported or sent to a distance, it also must be returned upon the brewer, or ruinous discounts given to the purchasers to prevail upon them to retain and get quit of it how they best can, which is very often done. The causes of error being thus explained, the remedy is obvious; nor can the irregularities cease until their causes be removed.
Causes of the prevalent Complaint that the Beer did not keep last Season.
During the last year (1845), it was very generally remarked by brewers that the beer did not keep so well, or in other words, got sour much sooner than usual. Various causes were assigned for this: some thought it proceeded from inferiority in the malt, owing to the barley not being so good as in former seasons; others ascribed it to the wetness of the season, and by many it was attributed to electrical influence, &c. Perhaps the whole of these causes might more or less have tended to produce the evil complained of. There may, however, be another cause, which very probably has done as much harm as all the others put together. The author, in the former part of this work, has endeavoured to put brewers on their guard against the consequences of the evil he now alludes to, and to this he will now more particularly advert.
During the last year, owing to the rather unusual quantity of rain, the atmosphere was in general much more humid than in most seasons; the malt also, as before stated, was inferior in quality to that of other years, and consequently had a tendency to imbibe more moisture than it would otherwise have done, and nothing but great care in keeping it would prevent its doing so.
It is now well known that, when malt, from exposure to the atmosphere gets in the least damp (or slack as it is called), any beer brewed from it will not keep, but on the contrary will very soon get acid or stale; it is more than probable, therefore, that last year’s malt having got slack from bad keeping and the dampness of the air, was the principal cause of the beer made from it going off in the course of the season. The author had many applications respecting this, and invariably recommended the re-drying of the malt before using it, and when that was thoroughly done, it was generally found to be a considerable improvement. How often do we find brewers anxious for a little new malt before it can be brought to market? The same beneficial effects will be produced by redrying the malt, as this, if properly done, will answer equally well, and if the malt be sprinkled with a little water when put upon the kiln, it not only tends to lessen the decrease, but makes it taste as well and as brisk as if it were new. Maltsters generally strongly object to redrying, both on account of the expense and the decrease of measure, and consequently expect to make a charge for it; but the additional extract obtained, and the superior quality of the beer, will more than compensate for the extra expense. It would indeed be desirable on all occasions where malt has been kept over the season, without being entirely excluded from the air, to redry it before using, particularly when stock beer or that for exportation is wanted. This treatment will always make safer work, and perhaps prevent those complaints and losses, which might otherwise occur. It may be objected that redrying makes the malt a little darker in the colour, and of course the ale also. This, however, will be no objection to good judges, and real ale drinkers; all they look to is brilliancy, soundness, and fine flavour, and if the colour pleases them, others will soon yield to their opinion, and ale of a pure amber colour, as being generally more sound, will always be preferred by real judges to that which is paler. Fashion in this, as in other things, has very much altered since our forefathers were wont to sing,—"Now we’ll quaff the nut-brown ale,” &c.
It may be proper to remark here that very pale malt is seldom thoroughly sound-dried (or cured as it is called, a very expressive term), which is very probably the cause why so much of the pale strong ale which is brought to London never stands the summer.
It may also be remarked, as showing the absurdity of fashion, that many people who are accustomed to drink very pale strong ale, will not drink any of the weaker qualities unless they be of a much higher colour than the other, having an idea that it cannot have any strength but when it is of a darker colour.