How and What to Grow in a Kitchen Garden of One Acre (10th Ed)/Squashes
SQUASHES.
Hills should be made for the culture of these, in the same manner and at the same time as described for cucumbers, cantaloupes, etc. These hills should be at some distance from the vines above mentioned, as there is danger of the pollen mixing and spoiling the melons, etc. There are some localities where the winter squashes do not do well or are difficult of cultivation; but the small summer squashes are of easy culture in any locality, though of finer quality on a warm sunny slope than elsewhere. The only trouble in growing them is to protect them from the ravages of the Striped Squash Bug while young, for which purpose I use slug shot, dusted on the leaves early in the morning, while the dow is still on them.
The vines should be allowed plenty of room to run, at least four feet on every side. The vines soon cover the ground and prevent using the cultivator; but the large leaves so shade the soil that few woods grow, and where they rear their heads above the vines they can be cut out with hand hoes or pulled out after a rain, by hand.
As we can hardly use the product of more than a dozen hills, I divide the long row across the garden into three parts, planting the squashes at one end, watermelons in the centre, while the other end is occupied by cucumbers, which prevents any mixing of pollen, and gives a sufficient quantity of each fruit without disturbing the symmetry of the garden. In gathering the squashes for table use, care must be taken that they are not too old, or they will be tough and stringy when cooked; the easiest way to judge them is to try them with the nail or small stick; if it does not cut the skin freely and easily they are too old; no push should be required to make the cut. This is also a good test when in doubt about the proper condition of sweet corn, and should be applied to grains near the base of the car. should be allowed to remain on No old squashes the vincs of the summer varieties, for if they are allowed to ripen, the vine, having fulfilled its natural purpose, will dry up and die, while if the fruits are picked off, it will continue to grow and produce fruit.
The winter squashes are raised in the same manner, but are more difficult to start, as the young plants are subject to a borer which eats them off under ground. Plenty of seed should be sown in each hill, and as soon as you see a plant wilting or cut off, dig around its roots with your fingers or a stick until you find and kill the borer, otherwise, he will continue his labors on the other plants in the hill. The plants should also have careful watching and dusting, to preserve them from the usual insects that prey on young vines. When the plants are about one foot in length they should be thinned out to two or three in a hill, though the danger from borers is hardly passed yet, but to allow them to stand too thickly after attaining this size would stunt them and lessen the crop. The squashes should be gathered before there is any hard frost and stored in a cool, well-aired cellar. Some of the winter varieties are equally good for summer use before they become too old and hard; if these are planted, the one planting will furnish fruit for both seasons.
SUMMER VARIETIES OF SQUASHES.
Early White Bush, or Patty-Pan.—This is the best known and most generally planted of the early
EARLY WHITE BUSH SQUASH.
GOLDEN SUMMER CROOKNECK SQUASH.
squashes; when young the quality is very fine, the flesh is fine grained and of delicate flavor. It is a bush variety and the vine does not “run.”
Golden Summer Crookneck.—A small crook-necked summer squash, the skin of which is a bright yellow color and is covered with warty excrescences. It is early, productive and of excellent flavor.
White Pineapple, or White Turban.—This variety produces a very handsome fruit, though of peculiar shape, as will be seen from the accompanying illustration. The blossom end of the squash is smooth and round, while from the stem end start ribs or cars, which attain their largest breadth and end near the middle of the squash; these ears usually grow in pairs. This variety is of excellent quality, and can be used at any stage of its growth, and the full-grown fruits can be preserved for early winter use. The skin and flesh are both of a pure creamy white tint; the flesh being very thick, while the seed cavity is quite small. The flesh is fine grained and of the best quality, possessing a rich cocoanut flavor.
WHITE PINEAPPLE SQUASH.
ESSEX HYBRID SQUASH.
WINTER VARIETIES OF SQUASHES.
Essex Hybrid.—A very productive squash of the finest quality and an excellent keeper, specimens having been kept until June, as sound and good as when gathered. It is one of the richest flavored, finest grained and sweetest of all squashes, while at the same time it is one of the largest and most productive, growing close together on the vines and averaging from eight to twelve pounds in weight. It is of early, quick growth, and can be raised very successfully as a second crop, following early potatoes, peas, etc.
HUBBARD SQUASH.
Hubbard.—This is a standard and well-known winter squash, and is of most excellent quality for winter use, but is not so well adapted to all soils and localities as the preceding varieties, nor of such easy culture.