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Chapter 13: Deductions for Lacing SpaceEdit

   1. You have decided which lacing adjustment to use in the new
corset. The corset does not reach entirely around the body, as a
portion of the body is covered only by lacer. This is called lacing
space. A deduction is made from the actual measurement around
the body to allow for this lacing space. This is called "spacing de-
duction" and differs according to the lacing adjustment selected.

Rules for spacing deductions and lacing spate



   2. The spacing deduction for a back-laced
corset is


Bust 3 inches
waist 2 inches
Hip 3 inches


When on the body the corset is spaced to this
proportion



Bust


Waist


Hip


  3. The spacing deduction for a front-laced
corset is


Bust 2 inches
waist 2 inches
Hip 1 inch


when on the body the corset is spaced to this
proportion





Bust


Waist


Hip


   4. The spacing deduction for a combined front
and back-laced corset is


Bust 3 inches
Waist 3 inches
Hip 3 inches


When on the body the corset is spaced to this
proportion, divided between front and back



Front


Back


 


Bust


Waist


Hip


 




   5. While the spacing deduction is 3 inches from the hip meas-
urement, the lacing space at the hip shows only 2 inches. This
extra deduction allows greater compression over the hip by drawing
the corset together an extra inch in the back when the final adjust-
ment is made. The extra com pression secured in this way is a
specific function of the combined front and back-laced corset.


   6. The spacing deduction for a front and par-
tial back-laced corset is


Bust 2 inches
waist 2 inches
Hip 3 inches


When an the body the corset is spaced to this
proportion, divided between front. and back



Front


Back


 


Bust


Waist


Hip


 




   7. While the spacing deduction is 3 inches from the hip meas-
urement, the lacing space at the hip shows only 2 inches. This extra
deduction allows greater compression over the hip by drawing the
corset together an extra inch in the back when the final adjustment
is made. The extra compression secured in this way is a specific
function of the front and partial back-laced corset.


   8. The spacing deduction far a back and
partial front-laced corset is


Bust 3 inches
Waist 2 inches
Hip 5 inches



Front


Back


When on the body the corset is
spaced to this proportion, divided
between front and back










Groin






Bust


Waist


Hip



   9. After the spacing deduction has been made from the client's
actual body measurements you know exactly haw many inches are
required in the corset to cover the body at the bust, waist and hip,
and to allow for the lacing space. The number of inches at the
waist represents the waist size of the corset. To determine which
corset will give you the exact number of inches at bust and hip,
find the corset development the client requires.

   10. TO DETERMINE BUST DEVELOPMENT OF CORSET.
With the spacing deduction made, subtract the waist size from the
bust size. The difference is the bust development needed in the
corset. [Exception. If the client has a condition of scant bust, her
bust measurement after spacing deduction is made, must be in-
creased. See Sec. 14, par. 6.]

   11. TO DETERMINE HIP DEVELOPMENT OF CORSET.
With the spacing deduction made, subtract the waist size from the
hip size. The difference is the hip development needed in the corset,
provided you have secured a good foundation over which you have
taken a tight hip measurement and the figure is not abnormal,
When the hip measurement has been taken under these conditions,
the hip size of the corset must always be exactly the same as the
client's hip measurement, less spacing deduction.

   12. To show how to make spacing deductions to determine waist
size and to find corset development from the client's actual body
measurements, let us assume the following:


Bust
Waist
Hip


40
28
39


   13. When back lacing adjustment has been decided upon make
spacing deductions as follows:


Bust
Waist
Hip


40 — 3 == 37, bust size required in corset
28 — 2 == 26, waist size required in corset
39 — 3 == 36, hip size required in corset.


   14. To find corset development, subtract the measurements se-
cured as a result of making spacing deductions, as follows:


       Bust 37
       Waist 26
                 --
Bust Dev. 11


       Hip 36
       Waist 26
                 --
Hip Dev. 10





   Written thus: Dev. 11:10.


   15. Proceed in the same manner with other lacing adjustments,
making spacing deductions according to rules given in this section.


To determine waist size when the client's hip development,

less spacing deduction, is greater than the hip develop-

ment of the standard corset under consideration

   16. With the spacing deduction from the client's actual hip
measurement made, subtract the hip development of the corset you
are considering from the remainder. This will give you the waist
size that you must use in that standard corset. [Note: The use of
this method is modified by flesh conditions. See Sec. 14, Par. 14.]

   17. To show you haw to make spacing deductions and to deter-
mine waist size when changing the proportions of an irregular
figure, with soft flesh, let us assume the following actual body meas-
urements:


Bust
Waist
Hip


40
28
43


   18. When back lacing adjustment has been decided upon, make
spacing deductions as follows:


Bust
Waist
Hip


40 —3 = 37
28 —2 = 26
43 —3 = 40


   19. To find corset development, subtract the measurements se-
cured as a result of making spacing deductions, as follows:


Bust 37
Waist 26

Bust Dev. 11


Hip 40
Waist 26

   Hip Dev. 14




   Written thus: Dev. 11:14.


   20. This development shows irregular proportions, so it would
be well to change them. In this case let us assume that the hip de
velopment is to be reduced 2 inches. To do this let us select a cor-
set with a 12 inch hip development instead of 14. The hip measure-
ment was taken tightly so the client's hip size cannot be made any
smaller. To find the waist size that will give you 40 inches of ma-
terial around the hip (of this corset with a 12 inch hip develop-
ment), subtract as follows:


40 Hip measurement less spacing deduction
12 Corset hip development

28 waist size required in standard corset.



   21. This corset with a 28 inch waist size and 12 inch hip devel-
opment produces straighter lines and so reduces the amount of
curve over the hips. The soft flesh is re-distributed upward by the
straighter lines of the new corset. This re-distribution of flesh fills
out the waist and bust of the corset and in this way changes her
figure lines.

   22. When this corset, size 28, is adjusted correctly with a 2 inch
lacing space at the waist, it makes the client's waist measurement
30 inches instead of 28 inches. This increased waist size and de-
creased hip development changes the client's irregular proportions
nearer to normal.

   [Note: Spacing deductions herein are treated only in their rela-
tion to corsets. Spacing deductions for waists and other garments
are treated on page 90 of the 1916 catalogue.]