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Chapter 16: How to Prepare the New Corset for AdjustmentEdit

   1. The corset should be laced as follows: Ordinarily one lacer
only is necessary in a corset, aside from the elastic lacer sometimes
used in lower back.

   2. Lay the corset on a table with the inside down. Insert the
ends of the lacer from underneath through the tap eyelets on each
side, drawing them to equal length. From underneath, pass the
left hand lacer through the second eyelet on right side and the
third eyelet on left side. Continue to insert lacer in alternate eye-
lets an each side until the eyelet just above waist tape is reached.
Proceed with right hand lacer in the same manner to this paint.
The lacer is now in the eyelets just above waist tape.

   3. Crass to the opposite side with each end of the lacer, skipping
one eyelet on each side, and insert the ends from underneath. With-
out crossing over, insert the ends of the lacer from the upper side
in the eyelets you have skipped, making a loop on each side at the
waist. This forms the "Pull-loop" at waist line.

   4. Proceed in the same manner as above the waist tape, continu-
ing to the bottom of the back wires, if an elastic lacer is to be used;
if not, to the bottom of the corset. When you reach the last eyelet
in which the regular lacer is to end, insert it from the upper side
and tie it in a hard knot. This brings the knot an the under side.

   5. If an elastic lacer is used, insert it from the upper side in the
same eyelets in which the regular lacer ends. Continue to insert
the elastic lacer in alternate eyelets, in the same manner as the
regular lacer and tie at the bottom of the corset in a bow knot.


When you have completed the ad-
justment of the corset on the client,
tie the elastic lacer in a hard knot
and cut off the metal tips of both
lacers.

Holding knot

   6. Just above the bottom of the
clasp in front-laced corsets, or wher-
ever it is desirable to maintain com-
pression, make a "holding knot." To
do this insert the lacer from the
under side, as usual. Then pass the
end, over the same lacer in the lacing


 
HOLDING KNOT


space, and under it from above. Draw the end up through the loop
thus formed; pull it tightly. This makes the "holding knot." The
strain an the lacer from above will keep the knot tight. This knot
must never. be below the end of the stiff stay in the eyelet piece. This
holds the adjustment above the knot firmly, regardless of the ad-
justment below.

Moulding clasp, back wires and stays

   7. Before putting the corset on the client it is . necessary to
mould the clasp, back wires and same of the Spirella stays. This is
done that none of the ends may show through the outer clothing or
wear through the corset material. To mould the clasp, hold it
firmly in your hands and bend it slightly between the two lower
hooks so that the lower end will curve toward the body when the
corset is on. Each side must be moulded alike; 'otherwise the hooks
would come unfastened. [While moulding, the clasp may be either
hooked or not as is easier for you.] To mould the upper part of the
clasp, hold it firmly at the waist line; bend the clasp outward at
the waist line so that the upper part will curve away from the body
when the corset is on. See that each side is moulded alike. Bend
the clasp between the hooks, not where the hook is riveted.

   8. The back wires should be moulded in toward the client's body
at the top and the bottom. Do not bend the back wires at the waist
line.

   9. All Spirella stays should be moulded toward the client's body
about one inch from the top of the stay. Give them a slight "nip"
so that they will remain as moulded., Spirella will not take a per-
manent bend outward, but can be made to take a shaping towards
the body.

   10. Mould the long - Spirella stays below the waist line toward
the body at the bottom, to prevent their wearing through the ma-
terial. Moulding the stays bath protects the material and gives a
smooth outline to the figure.

   11. Practice moulding the stays at home until you become pro-
ficient and can handle the corset with confidence. Proficiency in
the presence of your client will inspire confidence in your skill as a
corsetiere.