Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies

Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies (1843)
by James Backhouse
1197601Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies1843James Backhouse

Etched by Wm. Chapman From a Sketch by C. Wheeler

Hobart Town, 1834

A NARRATIVE

OF

A VISIT

TO THE

AUSTRALIAN COLONIES,

BY

JAMES BACKHOUSE.

ILLUSTRATED BY THREE MAP'S, FIFTEEN ETCHINGS,
AND SEVERAL WOOD-CUTS.


LONDON:
HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. PATERNOSTER ROW.

YORK: JOHN L. LINNEY, LOW OUSEGATE.


MDCCCXLIII.

YORK: PRINTED BY JOHN L. LINNEY.

CONTENTS.


Page.

Introductionxv
Voyage to Van Diemens Land.—Embarkation—Emigrant Pensioners.—Disorderly conduct.—Intemperance.—The Ocean.—Bottled Water.—Petrels.—Coast of Spain.—Birds.—Storm.—Danger.—Equator.—Sunset.—Trinidad and Martin Vaz.—Funeral.—Whales.—Fishes.—Albatross.—African Coast.—Cape Town.—Schools.—Slavery.—Public Institutions.—Religious Meeting.—Departure.—L'Agullas Bank.—Southern Ocean.—Birds.—Religious Labours.—Coast of V. D. Land.—Colour of the Sea.—Piratical Vessel.—Sharks.—Bad Bay.—Arrival at Hobart Town. 1
Hobart Town.—Col. Arthur.—Intense Sleep.—J. Leach.—Unexpected Meeting.—Home.—Meetings for Worship.—The Liberty.—Convict Ship.—Prisoners.—Settlement of the Colony.—Female Factory.—Trees.—Animals.—Chain-gang.—Woody Hills.—Government Garden.—Bees.—Assigned Prisoners.—New Norfolk.—Bush Road.—The Clyde.—Green Valley.—Bothwell.—Hamilton.—Fences.—Remarkable Rock. — Porter and Thieving.— Emigrants.—Style of living—Animals.—Hostile Aborigines.—Hospitality.—Bush-rangers.—She Oak.—Plains.—Remarkable Impression.—Sawyer's Huts.—Inn. 14
Hobart Town.—Pious Persons.—Penitentiary.—Temperance Society.—Kings Pits.—Shrubs.—Fern Valley.—School Meeting.—Voyage to Macquarie Harbour.—Prison Ship.—Piracy of the Cypress.—Prisoners.— Loss of the Science.—Fish.—Penguin.—Storm.—Port Davey.—Cockatoos.—Land Lobster.—Excursions.—Sharks.—Swearing.—Storm.—Sea Fowl.—Entrance of Macquarie Harbour. 32
Macquarie Harbour.—Mountains.—Trees.—Rivers.—Sarahs Island.—Timber.—State of Prisoners.—Mortality.—Murders.—Privations.—Escapes.—Cannibalism.—Example.—Punishment—Reformation.—Pious Prisoner.—Depravity.—Employment.—Provisions.—Pine-roads.—Philips Island.—Ferns.—Health.—Climate.—Spirits.—Bermuda Prisoners—Wellington Head.—Jail Meetings.—Prisoner Steward.—Spaniel and Blackfish.—Aborigines.—Kelp.—Lichen.—Birds.47
Report to the Lieutenant Governor.—Thanksgiving.—Death of a Pensioner.—War.—Clarence Plains.—Hospitality.—Government Schools.—Chain-gang.—Scorpion.—Centipedes.—Muddy Plains.—Settlers.—South Arm.—Liberty.—Kangaroo.—Box and Cow Fishes.—Illicit Spirit Dealer.—Princess Royal Stranded.—Snow Storm.—Richmond.—Trees.—Imported Fruit-trees.—New Houses.—Bush-rangers.—Security.—Meeting.—Coal River.—Settlers.—Oven Hills.—Orielton.—Wages paid at Public Houses.—Sorell Town.—Windmill.—Rich Land.—Temperance Meeting.—Lower Settlement.—Sober Anglo-Tasmanians.—View.—Spring.—Birds, &c.—Anniversary of Departure from England60
Attendance of Meetings.—Religious Communications.—Embarkation for Flinders Island.—Cape Roaul.—Port Arthur.—Perilous Situation.—Cape Pillar.—Birds.—Maria Island.—Spring Bay.—Prisoner Seaman.—Octopodia.—Freycinets Peninsula.—Trees, &c.—Black Swans.—Schouten Passage.—Mutton Birds.—Swan Island.—Banks's Strait.—Superstition of Sailors.—Wreck.—Preservation Island.—Sealers and Native Women.—Black Snakes.—Green Island70
Discovery of Van Diemens Land.—Its Position and Character.—Aborigines.—Erroneous Ideas of.—Attack upon.—Provocations.—Hostilities of.—Attempt to Capture.—G. A. Robinson's Mission.—Settlement in Bass's Straits.—Flinders Island.—Productions.—Manners of the Natives.—Dances.—Civilization.—Sealer and Child.—Breakwinds.—Song.—Clothing.—Capacity.—Ornaments.—Sickness.—Birds, &c.—Excursion.—Cookery.—Dogs.—Mangroves.—Kangaroo Rat.—Bandicoot.—Rain.—Commandant's Hut.—"Boatswain," a Native Woman.—Sealers.—Tasmanian Porcupine.—Wallowing in Ashes.—Gratitude.—Weapons.—Green Island.—Mutton Birds.—Music.—Tide-ripple.—Arrival at George Town78
George Town.—The Tamar River.—Launceston.—Meeting.—Aborigines.—Plants.—Leeches.—Kangaroos.—Middle Arm.—Tide Ripple.—North Coast.—Blacks charged with Murder.—Mode of Transferring Fire.—Black Women Rescued.—Circular Head.— Van Diemens Land Company's Establishment.—Islands.—Woolnorth.—Rocks.—Cape Grim.—Bird Islands.—Kelp.—Mutton Fish.—Native Doctor.—Seeking a Needle.—Decoration.—Remembrance of Absent Friends.—Habitations.—Tribes.—Burning the Dead95
Circular Head.—Anchorage.—Highfield Plain.—Work People.—Indentured Servants.—Flagellation.—Eagles.—Sponges.—Shells—Crabs.—Weather.—Ants.—Journey.—Rivers.—Grass-trees.—Blandfordia.—Banksia serratifolia.—Human Bones.—Scrub and Fern.—Fossil Shells.—Table Cape.—Trees, &c.—Emu Bay.—Magnificent Forest.—Gigantic Trees.—Tree Ferns.—Plains.—Aborigines.—Road.—Arrival at the Hampshire Hills107
Hampshire Hills.—Plants.—Burning the Grass, &c.—Surrey Hills.—St. Marys Plain.—Shrubs.—Excursion to Emu Bay.—Rocks.—Gigantic Trees.—Man lost.—Dense Forest.—Aborigines.—St. Valentines Peak.—Animals.—Hostile Natives.—Edible Fungi.— Native Potato.—Measurement of Trees.—Exploratory Ramble.—Skill of Aborigines.—Myrtle Forest.—Animals.—Compass.—Attack upon the Aborigines.—Leeches.—Dense Forest.—Cataract.—Free Servants.—Reckless Drunkenness.—Quantity of Rain.—Snow.—Burleigh.—-Black Bluff.—Vale of Belvoir.—Epping Forest.—Snakes.—"Great Western Road."—Forth and Mersey Rivers.—Circular Pond Marshes.—Burning Forest.—Caverns.— Dairy Plains.—Westbury.—Depravity.—Arrival at Launceston.110
Launceston.—Foolish Washerwoman.—Lizard and Grasshopper.—Religious Meetings.—Perth.—Norfolk Plains.—Wheat Crops.—Rioter.—Lake and Macquarie Rivers.—Summer Snow.—Hummocky Hills.—Profanity.—Campbell Town and Ross.—Salt Pan Plains.—Oatlands.—Jericho.—The Jordan.—Cross Marsh.—Green Ponds.—Constitution Hill.—Bagdad.—Blistered Feet.—Rate of Walking.—Hobart Town.131
Hobart Town.—Lieutenant-Governor.—Penal Discipline.—Reformed Prisoners—Intemperance and Indiscretion.—Sheriff's Writs.—Timber-fellers.—Meeting-room Engaged.—Meeting.—Journey.—Anxiety for Liberty.—Infidel Prisoners.—Brushy Plain.—Prisoner's View of Transportation.—Prossers River.—Spring Bay.— Kangaroo Grass.—Swan Port.—Cultivated Land.—Oyster Bay Pine.—Road.—Kelvedon.—-Waterloo Point.—Gunnia australis.—Ministry of F. C.—Character of the Land.—Shrubs.—Black Swans.—Boomer Kangaroo.—St. Patrick's Head.— Dwelling.—Timber.—Whales.—Mountains.—Tea.—Break o'day Plains.—"Dead Mens Graves."—Buffalo Plains. —Kindness of Aborigines.—Launceston.—Flinders Blacks.—Road Party.—Flagellation.—Weather.—Diseases.—Death of a Prisoner.—Intemperance.—Music.—Spring.—Ben Lomond.—Gums.—Fossil Tree.—Salt Springs.—Eagles.—Trees, &c.137
Meeting for Discipline Established.—Meetings for Worship.—Temperance Lecture.—Flagellation.—Causes of Crime.—Judicial Oaths.—Peculiarities of Friends.—Chain Gang.—Unsteady Emigrant.—Ascent of Mount Wellington.—Notice of a Pious Prisoner.154
Second Visit to Flinders Island.— West Coast Aborigines.—Dislike to Fat.—Emigrants.—Bruny Island.—Port Arthur.—Guard of Dogs, &c.— Discipline.—Diving of Native Women.—Shamrock Stranded.—Flinders Island.—Planting Potatoes.—Difference.—Civilization.—Grass-tree Plains.—Prime Seal Island.—Spears.—Climbing Trees.—Comparative Skill—Mustering.—Cleanliness.—Catechist.—Light-house.—Bush-rangers.—Launceston.165

Launceston.—Meetings.—Pious Prisoner.—Improvements.—Aborigines' Merchandise.—Meeting at George Town.—Rambles.—York Town.—Trout.— Voyage.—Flinders Island.—Kangaroo Apple.—Greeting.—Distribution of Clothing.—Native Chief.—Fire.—Notions of Supernatural Influence, and a Future Existence.—Departure from Flinders Island.—Intemperance.—Cutter driven upon the Rocks.— Recklessness.—Dangerous Situation.—Arrival at Kelvedon 176

CHAPTER XVI.

Kelvedon.—Meetings.—Soldier Injured.—Papal Penance.—Animals Poisoned.—Instinct.—Use of Spirits in Whaling, &c.—Toad-fish.—The Saddle.—Eastern Marshes.—Dead Trees.—Farm.—Settler and his Flock.—Sheep Lands.—Opossums.—Meetings at Oatlands and Jericho.—Sheep and Wool.—Native Cat.—Dairy Farm—Vale of the Jordan.—Platypus.—Black Brush.—The Carlton.—Visiters—Inns.—Temperance Reformation.—Richmond.—Jerusalem.—Drought.—Parrots.—Green Ponds.—Settlers.—Invalid Road Party.—Mill.—New Norfolk.—Meetings.—Forlorn Prisoner.—Pious Settler.—Prisoners at Bridgewater.—Return to Hobart Town.—Indisposition 185

CHAPTER XVII.

Hobart Town.—Meeting Places.—Discontinuance of Reading Meetings.—Weekday Meetings.—Ministers.—Meetings to which the Public were Invited.—Prayer.—Principles of Friends.—Baseline.—Perjury.—Prisoner Boy.—Grasstree Hill.—Esculent Vegetables.—Silent Meetings.—Flagellation.—Monthly Meetings.—Reflections.—Report on Chain Gangs and Road Parties.—Traffic of the Blacks.—"Guide to True Peace."—Colonial Hospital.—J. Johnson. —Orphan School.—Penitentiary 195

CHAPTER XVIII.

Browns River.—Potatoes.—Cordage-trees.—Hobart Town Jail.—Meetings.—Baptism.—Condemned Criminals.—Ministry.—Comparison of the Stockkeepers with the Sons of Jacob.—Musk Rat.—Convincement by Reading "Barclay's Apology."—Ministry.—Kangaroo Hunter.—Naming of Places in Van Diemens Land.—Penguins.—Albatross.—Morepork.—Delay.—Ministry of G. W. W.—Penitent Prisoner.—Trying Occurrences.—Seven-mile Beach.—Holothuridæ.—Drunken Prisoners, &c.—Awkward Travelling.—Arrival at Kelvedon.—Fruit Trees.— Black Swans.—Arrival of D. and C. Wheeler.—Coralines, &c.—Cranes.—Track Lost.—Return to Hobart Town 205

CHAPTER XIX.

Old Johnson.—Prayer.—Spiritual Poverty.—Yearly Meeting.—Meeting at New Norfolk.—Influenza.—Cold of Mount Wellington.—Mantis.—Sale of Spirits.—Calumny.—Visit to Port Arthur.—Doughboy Island.—Black-backed Gull.—Commandant bewildered in the Forest.—State of the Penal Settlement.—Scurvy.—Educated Prisoners.—School.—Employment.—Convict Boys.—Coal Mine.—Black Snake.—Coal.—Plants.—Return to Hobart Town.—Letter.—Meetings.—Laws of Primogeniture and Entail.—Pensioners.—Rural Dean.—Surgeon of the Alligator 221

CHAPTER XX.

Voyage to Sydney.—Cape Howe.—Diversity of Gifts.—Dangerous Situation.—Port Jackson.—Sydney.—Religious Instruction.—Aborigines.—Rock Oysters.—Brugmansia.—Visit to the Governor.—Projected Visit to Norfolk Island.—Meetings on Ship-board.—S. Marsden.—New Year's Day.—Shrubs.—"Brickfielder."—First Meetings on Shore.—Temperance Meeting.—Works of Creation.—Visit to the Governor, at Parramatta.—Card Playing.—Snake.—Elizabeth Bay.—Fig-tree and Acrosticum grande.—Peaches.—Plants.—School Meeting.—Group of Aborigines.—Parasites.—Meeting in the Court-House.—Luminous Appearances in the Sea.—New Zealand Hostages.—Imposition on Medical Men.—Meeting on Board the Henry Porcher 230

CHAPTER XXI.

Arrangements for Visiting Norfolk Island.—Departure.—Adverse Winds.—Shark and Pilot-fish.—Seamen.—Spiritual Navigation.—Jelly-fish.—"The Elizabeth" Whaler.—Tropic Bird.—Norfolk Island.—Departure of D. and C. Wheeler.—Orange Vale.—Oak.—Geology.—Features of the Island.—Norfolk Island Pine and Tree-fern.—Fruits.—Description of Prisoners.—Assemblies for Worship.—Jail 245

CHAPTER XXII.

Norfolk Island.—Kings Town.—Occupation of Prisoners.—Mitigation of Sentence.—Freycinetia.—New Zealand Flax.—Agriculture.—Pigeons.—Cats.—Fly-catchers.—Parrots.—Dying Prisoner.—Ansons Bay.—Wistaria?—Ipomœa pendula.—"The Sisters" Pines—Jasminum gracile.—Lagunea Patersonii.—Burial of a Prisoner.—Improvement among the Prisoners.—Provisions.—Sweet Potato.—Profanity.—Perjury.—Madrapores.—Sea Anemonies.—Papal Prayers.—Teaching of the Spirit 255

CHAPTER XXIII.

Norfolk Island.—Disinclination to receive Religious Instruction.—Prisoners' Barracks.—Iron.—Flagellation.—Overseers.—Sentence to Penal Settlements. —Sick Prisoners.—Rocks.—Cape Gooseberry.—Palm.—Wood-quest. N. I. Pines.—Roman Catholic Prisoners.—Cleanliness.—Temperature.—Reckless Prisoner.—Felling-gang.—Plants.—The Cascade.—Flora of N. I.—Sugar Cane.—Rum.—Christian Doctrine 262

CHAPTER XXIV.

Norfolk Island.—Cave.—Remarkable Shrubs.—Mount Pitt.—Group of Islands.—Capture of a Parrot.—Marrattia.—Petty Sessions.—Marine Animals.—Tree-ferns.—Animals.—Visit of Officers to Phillip Island.—Guavas.—True Church.—Return of Officers.—Wild-boar.— Runaway Prisoner.—Religious Interviews.—Luminous Fungus.— Prisoner's History.—Tidings.—Relapses.—Parting Opportunities.—Penitent Prisoners.—Departure.—Prisoners' Letters.—Voyage.—Storm.—Lord Howes Island.—Portuguese Man-of-War.—Arrival at Sydney.—Disorderly Soldiers 270

CHAPTER XXV.

Sydney.—Penal Discipline of Norfolk Island Re-modelled.—Epistle to Friends in Hobart Town.—Meetings.—Unclaimed Property of Deceased Persons.—Drought.—Shrubs.—Thoughtless Young Men.—Conceited Woman.—Prayer in Spirit.—Australian School Society.—Unworthy Descendants of Friends.—Blacks Fishing.—Species of Callitris.—Ministry.—Shrubs.—Friends' Books.—D. and C. Wheeler.—J. Leach.—Consumption.—Meeting at Cooks River.—Travelling in New South Wales.—Mounted Police.—Meeting at the North Shore.—Botany Bay.—Dye-woods, &c.—Grass-tree.—Sweet Tea.— Miasmal Fever 286
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