Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies/Chapter 1
NARRATIVE.
CHAPTER I.
All necessary arrangements for a long voyage having previously been made, we embarked in St. Katharine's Dock, London, on the 3rd of the 9th month, 1831, on board the Science—a fine barque, of 236 tons, William Saunders, master. A few of our friends accompanied us to Gravesend, where we anchored that afternoon, and others joined us there on the following day, with whom we went to meeting, at Rochester. In this, the last assembly for public worship which we attended in our native land, we were favoured to feel much of the comfort of the Holy Spirit, and of confirmation respecting our projected voyage being undertaken in the divine counsel.
In the cabin of the Science, there were two other passengers; and in the steerage, forty-six Chelsea pensioners, who had commuted their pensions for an advance of four years' payment; nine women, chiefly pensioners' wives; six children, and a young man, whom one of the pensioners had befriended. These, with the crew, amounted to above eighty persons.
On the 5th, some of the pensioners received a part of their advance from the Government, to enable them to purchase necessaries for the voyage, for which purpose some of them went on shore; but they wasted their money in strong drink, and returned on board so much intoxicated, that the necessity of preventing others doing the same, was obvious. The men became very unruly, but were appeased by the women being allowed to go on shore to make purchases, and by a boat with supplies of clothing, bedding, &c. being sent off to the ship.—In the evening we proceeded further down the river, and, on the 6th, dropped anchor off Deal. Here the men were determined to go on shore, and were taken from the vessel by Deal boatmen, in spite of remonstrance and threats from the captain: many of them came back intoxicated, but one returned no more.
We sailed from the Downs on the 9th, and from that time till we reached the Cape of Good Hope, few days passed without some of the pensioners being intoxicated and quarrelling: sometimes but few were sober; and, occasionally, the women were as bad as the men. Three times the captain was seized by different men, who threatened to throw him overboard. One man was nearly murdered by one of his fellows, and all kinds of sin prevailed among them. A fruitful source of this disorder was a daily allowance to each person of about five liquid ounces of spirits. Some saved it for a few days, and then got drunk with it: some purchased it from others, and so long as their money lasted, or they could sell their clothes, were constantly intoxicated. The general excitement produced by this quantity of spirits, made them irritable in temper, and seemed to rouse every corrupt passion of the human mind. To all expostulation, the constant reply was: "We are free men, and it is our own: we have paid for it, and have a right to do as we please with it."
From having been long accustomed to act in obedience to military discipline, instead of upon principle, these men were generally as incapable of taking care of themselves, when temptation was in the way, as children; and the state of confusion they were in was often appalling. From first going on board we read to them twice a day from the Bible or religious tracts. This was nearly the only time they were quiet. At first some of them tried to stop us by making a noise, but finding we proceeded without noticing them, they ceased: and at the conclusion of the voyage, some of them acknowledged, that the time of our reading had been the only time in which they had had any comfort.
On arriving at the Cape of Good Hope, the captain delivered three of the most disorderly men to the civil authorities: two of them were detained, and three others and a woman of bad character, left the vessel of their own accord. Those who remained on board conducted themselves better after we got to sea again, notwithstanding several of them had become of evil notoriety during our short stay in Cape Town.
But to return to our voyage. On the 16th of 9th month, in the evening, we now and then caught a glimpse of the light on the Lizard Point, Cornwall; which was the last trace we saw of our native shores. Several of the pensioners had begun to repent of having embarked, before reaching this point! On the 17th, we were out of soundings, and the ocean presented the dark blue colour that prevails where it is unfathomably deep. The circle of view, not being broken by other objects, appeared very limited. From the ordinary elevation of a ship's deck, this circle is only estimated at about eight miles in diameter. The night of the 18th was stormy, and we were in some danger from want of skill in the second mate, in whose watch the vessel was "taken aback" in a squall. On the 19th, our water began to be very disagreeable; and we found bottled spring-water, of which we brought out a good stock, a great luxury. Many Stormy Petrels followed the vessel on the 20th, and at various subsequent periods. These little birds, which are about the size of a swallow, have a propensity to keep about the wake or track of a ship in windy weather, and before, as well as during a storm; therefore when they follow a vessel in calm weather, they are considered as the harbingers of a breeze: but notwithstanding this, they are frequently to be seen in the same situation in continued fine weather, especially about meal times, when various crumbs of refuse food are cast overboard, which, floating into the wake of the vessel, are picked up with avidity by these lively little birds, that skim over the surface, sometimes alighting upon the unbroken waves, and running upon them with their webbed feet, balancing themselves by means of their wings, which they hold erect, and ready for flight.
We were off Cape Finisterre, on the N. W. coast of Spain, on the 21st; some of the land seemed of considerable elevation. On the 8th of 10th month, we entered the Torrid Zone; and saw a few Flying-fish; the first living creatures, except the Petrels, that we had seen for many days. A Swallow also cheered us by a visit: it flew many times around the vessel. A great number of Black and White Gulls, and some Porpoises, were seen in the evening. On the 17th, we lost the trade winds, that had urged us on rapidly for many days, and reached a latitude where squalls, often attended by thunder and heavy rain, and dead calms and variable breezes, frequently follow each other in quick succession, the thermometer varying from 78° to 82° in the shade. During a severe squall on the 25th, large patches of phosphorescent light were seen on the surface of the ocean for a short time: they presented a scene of great beauty, the interest of which was not diminished by the raging of the sea. The Swallow noticed on the 8th, and another which joined it, perished in the storm. On the 25th, we were in considerable danger, in consequence of the second mate getting intoxicated, and falling asleep in his watch, when the wind was strong, and only an inexperienced youth, at the wheel by which the vessel is steered. The mate was in consequence degraded from his office.
26th of 10th month, we crossed the Equator in 27° west longitude. None of those disagreeable scenes took place, that are often exhibited on such occasions, and that are as heathenish in their origin as in their practice; in which Neptune is represented by some person, and ceremonies are 
Rocks of Martin Vaz
performed, outrageous to Christianity and to civilization. We passed under the vertical sun on the 2nd of 11th mo. having had a fine breeze since crossing the equator. Within the tropics, the sky at sunset frequently presents a scene of great beauty, in the softest tints. Blue is the prevailing colour in the zenith; nearer the horizon, verdigris green is shaded into rose colour, and sometimes into glowing red; with which also some of the patches of rich brown cloud of various shade are tinged. A purple shade is cast over the ocean, which is seldom rough; and the atmosphere being of a pleasant warmth, the effect of the whole is remarkably soothing and luxurious.
On the 4th of 11th mo. we passed between the rocks of Martin Vaz and the little island of Trinidad, off the coast of South America. As we approached them, the swell became bolder, and some Terns and Black Gulls, and a few Boobies were seen. The sight of land was cheering, notwithstanding, it was only that of an uninhabited island, and of the grotesque rocks occupied by sea fowl, depicted in the annexed etching.
On the 12th, the remains of an old man of some piety, named John Salmon, were committed to the deep. He had been in declining health from the time he came on board. His situation among a number who were swift to do evil, was painful, but he bore it patiently. On being inquired of, a short time before he died, if he felt peaceful, he replied, that he was very comfortable; and on being asked, if all his hope was in Christ, he said, "O yes! it had need." Last night, the corpse, wrapped in a blanket and sewed up in a hammock, with three eighteen pound shots to make it sink, was brought on deck, placed upon a hatch turned upside down, and covered with a union jack. This morning it was removed to the quarter-deck, around which the passengers and crew were seated. A flag was hoisted half-mast high, and the vessel was laid to, or made still upon the waters. The Captain read the funeral service of the Episcopal Church for such occasions; and when he came to the words, "Commit the remains, &c. to the deep," the men who were stationed for the purpose, removed the union jack, raised the head of the hatch, and launched the corpse over the ship's side into the ocean, in which it instantly sunk. At this moment a cry of distress burst from the widow of the deceased, but she soon became collected again, and the Captain proceeded with the service. He afterwards addressed the company on the folly of wasting their lives in riot and excess, and I added an exhortation to "watch and be sober:" but nevertheless, some of the pensioners were again intoxicated before night!
The seaman who was lately raised to the office of second mate, betrayed his trust on the 17th, and persuaded one of the boys to steal liquor, with which they both got drunk, and he consequently forfeited his place.—On the 27th, a sail was in sight, which proved to be the Borneo, of London, on a whaling voyage. Whales had frequently been seen for some time past, and at one time, a shoal of Porpoises of vast extent passed us, swimming in a westerly direction, at a very rapid rate. The Borneo captured two whales while within sight. One of them spouted blood to a great height when struck, and dragged the boat at a fearful rate, almost round the circle of our horizon. After the whale was towed alongside the vessel, we went on board, and inspected the huge animal, which was of the same species as those taken in the northern latitudes: it is called in this hemisphere the Right Whale. A shark was already at its side watching for prey. The Humpbacked and the Fin Whales have also been occasionally seen of late, and the Right Whale in considerable numbers. They make a noise resembling that occasioned by the escape of steam from the boiler of a steam engine, but this is not heard at a great distance: their heads are often beset with barnacles. The near view of these enormous animals, rising majestically to the surface of the ocean, and spouting clouds of spray, whilst the water is pouring off their ample sides, is very interesting. Within the warmer southern latitudes, a number of Pilot-fish frequently accompanied us, swimming rapidly, either close before the bow, or after the stern of the vessel. They are about the size of mackerel, and are marked with alternate dark and silvery bands. A sharp nosed fish supposed to be a Sword-fish, about nine feet long, followed us for several days. Several thick, dark-coloured fish about a foot and a half long, were frequently swimming close by the rudder. Sometimes small Dolphins were playing about the vessel; and numerous Flying-fish, of two species, darted from the bosom of the deep, and made aerial excursions of various length, sometimes of more than a hundred yards, endeavouring to escape the voracity of Bonitas and Albacores, which frequently sprung out of the water after them. The Flying-fish, which are about the size of small herrings, and of a silvery hue, often meet an enemy in the air, in the long-winged Wandering Albatross; which, in small numbers, and of plumage so varied as to admit of the individual birds being identified, accompanied us in this part of our voyage, sailing almost motionless on the wing.
On the 2nd of 12th mo. we sighted the coast of Africa, off Saldanha Bay; from whence we beat up past Dassen and Robben Islands, into Table Bay, which we entered on the 5th. The sea broke heavily on Dassen Island, which is low and sandy, and against the main land; the coast of which appeared hilly, with mountains remote from the shore. Some of the slopes near the sea were very sandy, and the hills looked arid and brown, except where there were patches of cultivation. About Table Bay, the scenery is very beautiful. Hills of moderate elevation, with a few scattered farms, bound the northern side: on the east is an extensive sandy flat; beyond which, at a distance of about 30 miles, rise the peaked and rugged mountains of Hottentot's Holland. And on the south, at the foot of Table Mountain, which is 3,582 feet high, with the Devil's Hill to the left, and the Lion's Hill to the right, Cape Town, with its clean-looking, white houses, interspersed with trees, is situated. The ships and boats in the bay, the houses scattered along the shore, and the numerous sea fowl—Gulls, Albatrosses, Terns, Divers, and Penguins—flying and swimming around, contribute to cheer the eye which has for many weeks looked upon little, but the unvarying circle of the dark blue ocean.—The Penguins are unable to fly on account of the shortness of their wings, but these serve as fins to impel them through the water, in which they swim with their bodies submerged.
On the 6th, we went on shore, and became the guests of Dr. and Jane Philip; from whom, as well as from some other Christian friends, before strangers to us, we received much kind attention. Dr. Philip introduced us to the Governor, Sir Galbraith Lowry Cole, who received us politely, and permitted us to land some cases of religious books and tracts for gratuitous distribution, free of duty, and without subjecting the vessel to port charges, more than are usual on putting into the bay merely for refreshments. We also received a kind welcome from John Bell, the Colonial Secretary, and from several other persons of influence.
In company with Dr. Philip, we visited several schools and other public institutions for the amelioration of the human race. One of the infant schools contained a set of interesting children of the upper class, who were all of white complexion: the separation between these and the other ranks was effected by a higher rate of payment. In the lower school there was a lively group, of varied shade of skin, including the children of the fair European, the brown Hottentot, and the Black of various nations, torn from his native land, by the ruthless hand of slavery. The animated countenances of all colours, and the prompt and pertinent answers the children gave, shewed intellectual powers, that under such cultivation, promised well for future days.
Slavery, with its train of abominations, was still in existence at this period in Cape Town. I one day saw a young man attempting to sell a coloured child, which I had ground to believe was his own; and the reason he then retained it was, that he could not get his price!—Several times we rode in a carriage driven by a young man of white skin, good person and agreeable countenance, whom benevolence had placed in a situation to earn the price of the cost of his own freedom. This circumstance forcibly reminded me of the question: "Who maketh thee to differ from another, and what hast thou that thou didst not receive?" It was not the young man's fault that he was born a slave: it was not my merit that I was born free. I felt thankful under the conviction that God was increasing the friends of the oppressed, and opening the eyes of men to see the incompatibility of slavery with the Gospel.
At a committee meeting of the Philanthropic Institution, for redeeming female children from slavery, it was deeply interesting to see sprightly children, the age of my own, brought forward to be sold for manumission. As I watched a slave mother who held a little girl by each hand, and observed her animated countenance, lighted up by the hope of obtaining the boon of liberty for her offspring, the question recurred to me, Why were these children born in bondage and mine born free? Was it only because the oppressor laid his unhallowed hand upon their parents, and because mine, by divine mercy, were saved from such oppression? A reckless persecutor was indeed permitted to cast one of my predecessors into prison, because he dared not to violate his conscience; and to keep him there till his days were ended by the severity, long before he had attained to my own age; but this entailed no curse on me or on my children. The persecutor bore the curse! But were men to act on the great Christian principle, "Whatsoever ye would that men should do unto you, do ye even so unto them;" there would be neither persecution nor slavery.
We visited the noble Library, the reading room of which is open to all classes, also the College, Hospital, and Prisons. We attended a meeting for the formation of a Temperance Society, and were present at a meeting for religious purposes in the chapel of the London Missionary Society. In this meeting my companion spoke for the first time in the line of gospel ministry. I was also favoured with an opportunity to express my Christian interest on behalf of those assembled, in whose company we felt the force of the declaration "God is no respecter of persons: but in every nation he that feareth him, and worketh righteousness is accepted of him."
On the 15th, having parted from our kind friends in Cape Town, with earnest desires that many more might be added to those already labouring to spread the knowledge of Christ, and to ameliorate the condition of their fellow-men, we returned on board the Science, being accompanied by Dr. Philip, who before he left us, prayed vocally for our preservation.
On the 18th, we were again out of sight of land; which, while it was in view, was so attractive as to keep us too unsettled to attend much to other things. In the evening a breeze, which we had had during the day, increased into a gale, and as we were in the act of crossing L'Agullas Bank, which lies off Cape L'Agullas—the southermost point of Africa—the waves were magnificently bold. Sometimes we were in a deep hollow, and the next minute mounted on the top of a lofty billow, which, as it approached, seemed ready to swallow us up; but the buoyancy of the vessel occasioned it to rise over the surge; in mounting which, the masts would form an angle of, perhaps, 45 degrees with the horizon, in an opposite direction to that in which the billow advanced: on reaching its top the inclination was suddenly reversed, the wind at the same time pressing the vessel against the receding mass of water, which boiled from under the leeward side, or sometimes flowed over a portion of the deck. Sometimes the top of a broken billow struck against the ship's side, and covered half the vessel with spray. Now and then a shower fell, but often the sun shone brightly on the agitated scene, illuminating the spray from the tops of the broken, dark blue waves, with the colours of the rainbow, and sometimes shewing light of emerald green through the unbroken water. Vast numbers of Stormy Petrels were sailing on the wing, within a few yards of the stern of our bark, and numerous Wandering Albatrosses were flying around, or occasionally settling on the surface of the boisterous ocean, and riding with careless dignity over the highest billows, scarcely regarding their surfy tops.
When custom has taken away the nervous excitement occasioned by the rolling of the ship, it is surprising how little the mind recognizes danger under such circumstances; and "how thoughtless still the thoughtless seem." For my own part, I enjoyed the spectacle; but the remembrance, that He who rules over all is our Father, merciful and kind, regarding us for good, was necessary for the enjoyment: and the knowledge, that such scenes were often the preludes of a summons to the bar of eternal judgment, rendered it to me, a time of deep searching of heart; and one in which self was deeply abased under a sense of unworthiness; notwithstanding a capacity was granted to trust in Jesus for mercy.
Our voyage was made between the 39th and 45th degrees of south latitude. Most of the way we had a strong breeze, and the weather so cold that we found it needful to use warmer clothing than we had been accustomed to wear in England.—Persons making voyages of this kind ought not only to be provided with warm clothing, but with such as is adapted for wet weather at sea.—Fin, Spermaceti, and Right Whales were often seen in this part of the voyage, also the Wandering and the Black Albatross. The latter is the bolder bird, though the smaller species. One taken, measured 3ft. from the tip of the bill to that of the tail, and 7ft. from the extremity of one wing to that of the other. Sometimes a few Sooty and other Petrels were also seen, and on the 10th of 1st month, 1832, when upwards of 100 miles south of the island of Amsterdam, a Penguin passed us. To the south of New Holland we saw a Fishing Eagle chasing the Albatrosses, and observed long pieces of sea weed.
On the first day of the week, during the voyage, we regularly assembled the pensioners along with such of the ship's company as could be present, and imparted religious instruction to them, according to the fresh ability, from time to time afforded us. On these occasions we read to them from the Holy Scriptures; directed them to the convictions of the Divine Spirit on their own minds, condemning them for sin; counselled them to seek mercy with God through a crucified Redeemer; and often prayed with them for the continuance of the long-suffering of the Most High. When approaching the land of our destination, under a fresh sense of duty, we had religious interviews with them singly or in families, in which several of them were much contrited.
On the 4th of 2nd month, we were cheered by the sight of Van Diemens Land, which we made opposite Port Davey, in consequence of the south-easterly direction of the wind. We had not seen land for fifty days, but had become so much accustomed to the solitude of the ocean, as to feel reconciled to it, and at home upon its bosom.—The water this morning presented the olive colour, common where the depth is fathomable, or to use a sea term "within soundings." It has this colour generally, from the Cape of Good Hope to about opposite the island of Amsterdam.—A small sail was seen to the northward. The number of vessels sighted since we left England, has only been about six. One of these, in the Atlantic, was of piratical appearance and suspicious movements. We had no defence but in the Lord; our trust was in him; we lifted up our hearts to him in prayer for protection; and were separated by a thunder storm from the object of our fears, when it seemed to be bearing down upon us: thus, if these fears were not groundless, were we "delivered from unreasonable and wicked men."
The south-west coast of V. D. Land is mountainous. Some of its features reminded us of the north front of the Cleveland-hills of Yorkshire, but it is more lofty and rugged, and the scattered herbage and bushes upon it looked as brown as an English heath.—Large bubbles ascended in slow succession to the surface of the ocean, while we were becalmed opposite Port Davey; numerous animalcules were sporting on the surface, and fringed Jelly-fishes tinged with purple or crimson, were swimming at various depths. Several sharks were cruising around the vessel.—In the course of our voyage, a few Grey Sharks, 6 to 8ft. long, were captured by means of hooked lines, baited with pork. When a vessel is making four knots, or miles, an hour, a shark cannot take the bait; because the voracious animal is under the necessity of turning on one side to sieze its prey, and before this can be effected, the bait has passed beyond reach. To remedy this the bait was hawled close under the stern, and line given out, so as to render the bait still upon the water; it was then immediately seized. One of these sharks had several Sucking-fish adhering to it, some of them within its gills. These fish when suffered to fasten on the hand, produced a strange and unpleasant sensation. The heart of the Shark being taken out of the body, and put into a bucket of salt water, continued to beat for several minutes.
During the night of the 6th, we passed to the south of V. D. Land. The sea again assumed its dark blue colour. Three large Grampuses came close to the vessel: they made a snorting noise, but did not eject water like the larger species of the whale tribe. A breeze on the morning of the 7th carried us to the south of the Mew Stone—a large conical rock a few miles from the shore. The mountains on the south coast are rugged, and some of them peaked. Patches of snow were lying on a lofty one near South Cape. Wood covered their sides and reached in some places to the water's edge. We were in danger of being driven into Bad Bay, after passing too close to the Acteon Reef,—possibly through an opening in it,—but were enabled to escape from this perilous position by a sudden change of wind accompanying a thunder storm. After being thus mercifully delivered from this peril, and having rounded the rocky islets fronting Tasman's Head, the wind, before daylight was quite gone, resumed its former position, and we proceeded up Storm Bay, along the east side of Bruny Island, as far as Fluted Cape—a fine mass of columnar basalt.—Having the advantage of a bright moon we continued our course until so dazzled by numerous fires of large extent, consuming the adjacent woods, as to be unable to see our way. The vessel was therefore kept "standing off and on" till day light.
Early in the morning of the 8th of 2nd mo. we entered the Derwent; and at a short distance from Hobart Town, took in a pilot, who brought us to anchor in Sulivans Cove. Our feelings were those of reverent thankfulness to the Great Preserver of men, for having brought us safely over the great deep; and our prayers earnest for the continuance of his care over us, and for ability to go in and out acceptably before him.