Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 37/The Coming of the White Women, 1836

3843244Oregon Historical Quarterly, Volume 37 — The Coming of the White Women, 1836Thompson Coit Elliott

THE COMING OF THE WHITE WOMEN, 1836

By T. C. Elliott

The arrival of the first white American women to cross the plains and Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River is an event worthy of commemoration in the localities to which they came. The women were Narcissa Prentiss Whitman and Eliza Hart Spalding, wives of Doctor Marcus Whitman and the Reverend Henry H. Spalding, who came as Protestant missionaries to the Cayuse and Nez Perce Indian tribes in what was then the Oregon country. With their husbands they established the first homes of American families in the interior region now known as the inland empire; the Spaldings at Lapwai, near Lewiston, Idaho, and the Whitmans at Waiilatpu, near Walla Walla, Washington. They were courageous, conscientious and resourceful, wholly consecrated to the difficult and isolated tasks before them. Mrs. Whitman was murdered by the Indians eleven years after arrival and Mrs. Spalding died of exhaustion and ill health only three years later. They arrived at Fort Nez Perce (also called Walla Walla), a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Columbia, September first and third respectively, 1836. In this limited narrative it is proposed to relate the experiences and route of travel of this missionary party during the last eleven days of their journey, as told by Mrs. Whitman in a serial letter written to her family in New York while en route and which became a journal[1] of the journey, amplified and explained by editorial comment.

This missionary party traveled from Rendezvous at Green River in western Wyoming in company with, and under the guidance and protection of, Chief Trader John McLeod of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was returning by way of Fort Hall to Vancouver on the Columbia with the annual shipment of furs. This narrative takes up the journey at Fort Boise (also then called Snake Fort) where Mr. McLeod had rested for two days out of courtesy to the ladies. That trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company was then located on the south side of the Boise River near the present town of Parma, Idaho, and was a temporary, flimsy enclosure, which had been built only two years before. Its location was soon afterward changed to the mouth of the river on the east bank of Snake River, where a more pretentious and permanent establishment of adobes was erected. This became the Fort Boise known to the emigrants to Oregon in later years. Mrs. Whitman's own story of the first day's events is as follows:


"22nd (August, 1836). Left the fort for Walla We came a short distance to the crossing on Snake River crossed & encamped for the night. The river had three branches, divided by island as it was where we crossed before. The first & second flues were very deep but we ſhad) no difficulty in crossing on horseback. The third was deeper still we dare not venture on horseback. This being a fishing post of the Indians, we easily found a canoe made of rushes & willows on which we placed ourselves & our saddles (Sister S & myself) when two Indians on horseback with each a rope attached to the canoe towed us over. (O if Father Mother & the girls could have seen us now in our snug little bark floating on the water) we are favourites of the company no one else was privaledged with a ride on it. I wish I could give you a correct idea of the little bark. It is simply bunches of rushes tied together & attached to a frame, made of few sticks of small willows. It was just large enough to hold us & our saddles. Our baggage was transported on the top of the tallest horses without wetting.”


Mr. W. H. Gray, one of the missionary party in a letter written to David Ambler on September 9, 1836, at the Columbia River, says the distance from Fort Boise to the crossing place was six miles. Mrs. Whitman's mention of a former crossing (which had been even more dangerous) refers to that of Snake River about three miles below Glenns Ferry, Idaho, where no canoes were available for the ladies. The novel means of crossing here is vividly illustrated in the accompanying picture of similar crossing of rivers in Montana, taken from the Report of the Construction of a Military Road, by John Mullan, at page 50. About twenty years ago the writer of these comments visited this camping place of the party in company with Mr. Miles Cannon. The broad flat or meadow, known by tradition as a favorite fishing resort of the Indians, remains of about the same size and appearance as it was one hundred years ago. But the two islands in the river have disappeared; also the site and buildings of Fort Boise on the opposite bank, the result of floods and change of channel of the Boise River at its mouth. Mrs. Whitman continues:


"As for the waggon it is left at the fort, & I have nothing to say about it this time crossing. Five of our cattle we left also to be exchanged for others at Walla the only exchanged. Perhaps you will wonder why we have left the waggon having taken it so near through our animals were failing & the route in crossing the Blue Mountains is said to be impassable for it we have the prospect of obtaining one in exchange at Vancouver If we do not we shall send for it when convenient & pack it over. We regret now to loose the use of it when we have been at so much labour in getting thus far. It is a useful article in this country.”


This is the wagon so often referred to by controversial writers of Oregon history. It was built especially for Mr. Spalding in New York state before the journey began and had been reduced to a two-wheel cart at some point east of Fort Hall. The delay it caused in their travel evidently now had become too much for further endurance, even by the patient and courteous Mr. McLeod. The first wagons to be actually driven from Fort Boise to the Columbia were those of the Newell-Meek-Ermatinger party in 1840, and these were reduced to the running gear before finishing the trip. The ladies rode horseback practically all the way from the Missouri, presumably upon the uncomfortable and unstable side saddles then commonly used by women. Mrs. Whitman continues as follows:


"Now for Edwards amusement & that he may know how to do when he comes over the Rocky Mountains I will tell how we get the cattle over the rivers. Our two boys, Richard & John have had the chief management of them all the way, & are commendible for the patience they have manifested. They have some one or two to help them usually but none so steady drivers as themselves. When a stream is to be forded, where it is necessary for the[m] to swim, Richard com[e]s to my husband & asks if he may go over with his horse & clothes then come back after the cows. Having obtained consent he rides over accompanied by his fellow drivers all strip themselves to the shirt, then return with their horses, if the stream is wide & difficult, if not they leave their horses, tie their shirts on their heads swim back, collect the cows & drive them through all swimming after them. If the stream is very wide & they return with their horses, they drive them over swimming on their horses after them. This saves them from the too great fatigue of swimming the river twice. They love to swim as they love to eat & by doing it have saved me many an anxious feeling, for the relief it has given my Husband many times. In the commencement of the journey we were not able to ford all the streams. In this case all the horses & mules were to be driven across likewise usually the best Indian swimmer was selected & mounted the horse that was good for leading to go before the animals as a guide, while many others swim after them to drive them over when once under way, such a snorting & hallowing you never heard, at the same time you can see nothing save so many heads floating upon the water. Soon they gain the opposite shore, triumphantly ascend its banks shake themselves & retire to their accostomed employment.”


The missionary party left the Missouri with seventeen head of cattle. They arrived at Fort Walla Walla with eight of this number. The Indian boys, Richard and John, were the two taken to New York state by Doctor Whitman from Rendezvous in 1835, put in school there during the winter and were now being returned to their tribe, the Nez Perce. They drove this small herd behind the pack train, and, it is elsewhere said, often had come into camp after dark, tired and supperless. The Jason Lee party of missionaries had driven cattle through from the Missouri in 1834.

From this camping place (in Oregon, near Nyssa) to La Grande the party followed closely the trail used by the Indians, which became the Oregon trail of the pioneers a few years later. When riding along the highway nearby, one can probably now see the marks left by their wagon wheels when crossing the ridge toward Vale on Malheur River. A hiatus exists in the journal of Mrs. Whitman during the next three days. The trails of those days are indicated in the letter of Mr. Gray, already mentioned, as follows:

"23rdOff 7½ A M go 16 miles do west Noon on a little streame called Amalago [Malheur] go 11 miles N.W. camp at a spring on a hill all the water to be found for 20 miles; make 26 miles.

"24thWe Nooned on Snake River and camped on Brula; course 12 miles to S[nake] River West of North to Brula or Burnt River 11 miles, to Noon our trail beeing along the sides of the Mountain and only wide enough for a single animal to pass winding around and along steep presipisses and among the rocks which scarcely permits the foot of man or beast to secure a firme foot hold, while passing along. In the afternoon we made 11 miles more over hills that I should thought impossible to pass in N.Y. ascending and decending and winding around points of hill and rocks 22 miles We camped on a little streame that we gave the name of Division streame, the 26th 12 miles from last camp on Brula, at this place we left Mr. Spalding and our animals that were almost exhausted with the fatigues of the 2 last days with the men Dr W & wife and my self taking 3 pack animals and our horses continued on with Mr MCloud."

The track or trail up Burnt River (Brule) is described in the journals of many pioneers as the most difficult and exhaustive of the entire journey from the Missouri. Just above Durkee station, on the Union Pacific Railroad, this trail turned to the right over the mountain ridge to what is known as Virtue Flat; thence down hill to Powder River Valley at the Lone Tree, a landmark well known during covered wagon days. The trail did not pass through the city of Baker, as laid down on some maps.

Mrs. Whitman resumes her story:


"26th Friday. On account of our worn out cattle & horses it was thought best to seperate from Mr McLeod party at least some of us & travel more deliberately. Two mules & a horse have almost entirely given out, having been very much hurt in packing. It is also necessary that some of our party go to Vancouver immediately for supplies & to see Mr. Parker before he leaves. It was thot best for my Husband & Mr Gray to go. As Mr McLeod intended to make but a day stop at W W we came on with him leaving Mr & Mrs S the hired men with the most of our baggage, & the Nez Perces Chief Rottenbelly to pilot them in. We parted from them about three O'clock P M. & came on as far as the Lone Tree. The place call'd lone Tree is a beautiful valley in the region of Powder river, in the centre of which is a solitary tree quite large, by the side of which travelers usually stop & refresh themselves. We left our tent for Mrs S expecting to be out only a few nights while she might be many. Mr McLeod kindly offered his for my use & when I arrived in camp found it piched and in readiness for me. This was a great favour, for the wind blew quite hard & the prospect was for a cool night. Took tea with Mr McLeod.

"27th Came in sight of the hill that leads into Grand Round & should have come quite to it, had it not been for a circumstance that occured during the day This morning Mr McLeod remained behind in persuit of game, & did not come into camp untill we had made a long nooning. Began to feel a little concerned & it was proposed to send back in persuit of him when about three o'clock P M he came into camp loaded with wild ducks, having taken twenty two. Now Mother he did just as he always did, during the whole journey sent me nine of them. Here also Richard caught a fresh Salmon which made us another good meal & if we had been out of provisions we might have made a dinner upon fresh water clams for the river was full of them where we nooned. We left at four o'clock P M and rode untill seven o'clock. Felt exceeding languid & worn out with fatigue in the morn, but took a long sleep at noon while waiting which refreshed me very much. Girls how do you think we manage to rest ourselves every noon having no houses to shelter us from the schorching heat of the noon day sun, or sofas on which to recline. Perhaps you think we always encamp in the shade of some thick wood. Such a sight I have not seen lo these many weeks. If we can find a few small willows or a single low tree, we think ourselves amply provided for. But often our camping places are in some open plain, & frequently a sand plain, even here is comfort & rest. My Husband who is one of the best the world ever knew is always ready to provide a comfortable shade with one of our saddle blankets, spread upon some willows or sticks placed in the ground. Then our Saddles & pishmores,[2] with the other placed upon the ground, constitute our sofa. Here we recline & rest untill dinner is ready. How do you think you would like this? Would you not think a seat by Mother in some cool room preferable? Sometimes my wicked heart has been desposed to murmur, thinking I should have no rest for the heat when I stoped. But have always been reproved for it by the comfort and rest I received under these circumstances. I never have wished to go back such a thought finds no place in my heart. "The Lord is better to us than our fears. I always find it so."

The camp on August 27th was near North Powder, Baker County, Oregon, the day having been spent in crossing Powder River Valley, about twenty-five miles and a usual day's travel. The Nez Perce chief with nickname suggestive of both appetite and piety, had insisted on remaining with the party all the way from Rendezvous. Spalding spelled his real name Tack-en-su-a-tis. The next morning will find them following the trail up Ladd Canyon and descending into Grande Ronde by a steep hill northwest of Hot Lake, which was not noticed. This had been the road of Wilson Price Hunt in 1811, and soon became the emigrant road of the pioneers. They will noon next day at crossing of Grande Ronde River, just west of the city of La Grande, and Narcissa will have indulged in a little billing and cooing with her husband on the ridge, quite permissable on a bridal tour. Let her tell the story:

"28thThis morn lingered with Husband on the top of the hill that overlooks Grand Round, for berries, untill we were some distance behind camp. Have no distressing apprehensions now the moment we are out of sight of camp for we have entirely passed the dangerous country. Always enjoy riding alone with him, especially when we talk about home friends. It is then the tedious hours are sweetly decoyed away. We decend a very steep hill in coming into Grand Round at the foot of which is a beautiful cluster of pine trees, pich & spruce, but no white pine like what I have been accostomed to see at home Grand Round is indeed a beautiful place. It is a circular plain, surrounded with lofty mountains & has a beautiful stream coursing through it in some places is delightful, & the soil rich, in other places we find the white sand & sage as usual so peculiar to this country. We nooned upon Grand Round River. The Cammas grows here in abundance & it is the principal resort of the Cayouses & many other tribes, to obtain it of which they are very fond. It resembles an onion in shape & colour, when cooked is very sweet, tastes like a fig. Their manner of baking them is very curious. They dig a hole in the ground, throw in a heap of stones, heat them to a red heat cover them with green grass, upon which they put the Cammas & cover the whole with earth, when taken out it is black. This is the chief food of many tribes during winter. After dinner we left the plains & ascended the Blue Mountains. There a new & pleasing scene presented itslf, mountains covered with timber through which we rode all the afternoon, a very agreable change The scenery reminded me of the hills in my native county Steuben."

Camp this evening was at the spring in the timber on the dividing ridge between the watersheds of the Grande Ronde and Umatilla rivers, perhaps not far from Horse-shoe prairie shown on forest reserve maps. After dinner they had traveled northward through Summerville (earlier known as Indian valley) up one of the ridges dividing Phillips creeks; Indian trails through timber always followed the ridges instead of the valleys of


Mode of crossing rivers by the Flatheads and other Indians. -From Mullan'

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streams. Next day's travel will be perhaps the most eventful of the western journey.

"29th Had a continuation of the same scenery as yesterday afternoon. Rode over many logs an obstruction that we had not found in our way since we left the states. Here I frequently met old acquaintances, in the trees & flowers & was not a little delighted. Indeed I do not know as I was ever so much affected with any scenery in my life. The singing of birds the echo of the voices of my fellow travelers, as they were scattered through the woods, all had a strong resemblance to bygone days. But this scene was of short duration. Only one day. Before noon we began to descend one of the most terrible mountains for steepness & length I have yet seen. I[t] was like winding stairs in its decent & in some places almost perpendicular. We were a long time descending it The horses appeared to dread the hill as much as we did. They would turn & wind in a zigzag manner all the way down. The men usually walked but I could not get permission to, neither did I desire it much. We had no sooner gained the foot of the mountain when another more steep & dreadful was before us. We did not mount this untill we had taken some refreshment & rest. Our ride this afternoon exceeded everything we have had yet & what rendered it the more aggravating the path all the way was very stony resembling a newly McAdamized road. Our horses feet were very tender, all unshod, so that we could not make that proggress we wished. The mountains in many places was covered with this black broken basals. We were late in making camp tonight After ascending the mountain immediately after dinner, we kept upon the main divide untill sunset, looking in vain for water and a camping place. While upon this elevation, we had a view of the valley of the Columbia river. It was beautiful. Just as we gained the highest elevation & began to decend, the sun was dipping his disk behind the western horizon. Beyond the valley we could see two distant Mountains Mount Hood & Mount St. Helens. These lofty peaks were of a conical form & seperate from each other by a considerable distance. Behind the former the Sun was hiding part of his rays which gave us a more distinct view of this gigantic cone. The beauty of this extensive valley contras ts, well with the rolling mountains behind us & at this hour of twilight was enchanting & quite diverted my mind from the fatigue under which I was labouring. We had yet to decend a hill as long but not as steep or stony as the others. By this our horses were in haste to see camp as well as ourselves & mine made such lengthy strides in descending that it shook my sides surprisingly. It was dark when we got into camp but the tent was ready for me, & tea also, for Mr McLeod invited us to sup with him. We are now on the west side of the Blue mountains, crossed them in a day & half. Dearest Mother Let me tell you how I am sustained of the Lord in all this journey. Yesterday & for two or three days past I have felt weak and restless and scarcely able to sit on my horse yesterday in particular. But see how I have been diverted with the scenery & carried out of myself in conversation about home & friends Mother will recollect what my feelings were and had been for a year previous to my leaving home. The last revival I enjoyed. My visits to Onondaga & the scenes there. This I call my last impressions of home & it is of such a character that when we converse about home these same feelings are revived & I forget that I am weary & want rest. This morning my feelings were a little peculiar. Felt remarkably well & strong, so much so as to mention it. But could not see any reason why I should feel more rested than on the morn previous when I began to see what a days ride was before I understood it. If I had had no better health today than yesterday I should have fainted under it. Then the promise appeared in full view, 'as thy day is, so shall thy strength be', & my soul rejoyced in God, & testifys to the truth of another evidently manifest, 'Lo! I am with you alway.'”


Very few readers of Mrs. Whitman's journal have followed with care her travel over the Blue Mountains and know that near noon of this 26th day of August she dined and rested at the bottom of this canyon about five miles above Bingham Springs.[3] With that fact in mind her story of this day's journey becomes much more fascinating. The trails more usually followed by both Indians and by fur traders (and by Fremont in 1843) lead around the heads of both south and north forks of the Umatilla, but Mr. McLeod for some reason turned to the left, between those forks along ridges shown on forest reserve maps, to a steep and difficult descent into the canyon and the climb to Toll Gate by the Coyote Ridge trail. From the summit they turned westward through the timber, down grades, to a night camp on one of the sources of Pine Creek, which empties into the Walla Walla River.

During this early evening ride, at an elevation of nearly five thousand feet, the beautiful landscape of Walla Walla Valley, Columbia River and distant snow peaks of the Cascade Range burst into view. The grandeur of that view is still an inspiration. Residents of Walla Walla and Umatilla counties will be especially interested in following the travel route of Mrs. Whitman, because the names Toll Gate and Bingham Springs are familiar to them as popular summer resorts, and the topography easily recognized. For the better understanding of non-residents let it be clearly understood that the missionary party did not cross the Blue Mountains by the Oregon trail used by the pioneers and now substantially the state highway by Meacham. They did follow the trail, which, with distinct deviations, later became the wagon road between Walla Walla and the Wallowa countries, privately maintained by tolls collected at the summit; hence the name Toll Gate. The north fork of Umatilla River heads a few miles from Toll Gate and flows in a deep, narrow canyon, in the bottom of which, near its junction with the south fork, are located flowing springs of hot water. These have been developed into the resort named Bingham Springs.

Mrs. Whitman continues:

"30thIn consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday & failure of animals two of the company's men left four of theirs behind with packs also. This occasioned some anxiety lest the wolves would destroy their beaver. Today they send back for them & we remain here untill they return or make but a short move to find more grass. In following the course of the stream on which we encamped last night, found cherries in abundance, had time to stop to gather as we wished Indeed we rambled untill noon, before we went into camp. The cherries are very fine equal to any we find in the states. When we arrived Mr Gray had the dinner ready waiting for us. Our employment this afternoon is various. Some are washing their shirts & some are cutting their hair, others are shaving preparatory to seeing Walla W & some are asleep. For my part I endeavoured to divert myself the best way I could, doing a little mending for Husband, & trying to write while he & Mr Gray are streached upon the ground enjoying the refreshment of a sound sleep. The men who went for the animals returned late. We all regreted this hindrance, for Mr McLeod intended to see Walla W today & return again with a mushmellon for Mrs Whitman (so he said) He will go in tomorrow. It is the custom of the country to send heralds ahead to announce the arrival of a party and prepare for their reception.

"31st Came to Walla W river, within eight miles of the fort. Both Husband & myself very much exhausted with the fatigue of this day's lengthy ride. Sandy most of the way, and no water for many miles. When we left Mr S Husband rode an Indian horse one that he had never mounted before. found him a hard rider upon every gate except a gallop & slow in all his movements especially on a walk. He could not pace as mine did, so as to make up the deficiency in that easy way, so for the last six days when the ground would admit we galloped most of the way."


These letters show that on August 30th, camp was moved down Pine Creek toward, and perhaps near, the present town of Weston, Oregon; and that on the 31st, they proceeded about thirty miles over dry hills, now devoted to wheat raising, between Athena and Vansycle in Oregon, and to a late camp on the Walla Walla River. This camp was near what is now Nine-mile bridge, on the state highway between Wallula and Walla Walla. All discomforts of the journey were offset the following morning by the warm welcome at Fort Nez Perce (Walla Walla) of the Hudson's Bay Company, as fully described in Mrs. Whitman's letter of September 1st. The Spalding party arrived at noon on September 3rd, and received similar welcome.

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Front view of Fort Nez Perces. Taken from opposite side of the River at D.

—From Ross, Fur Hunters, volume II.

The account of their route across the Blue Mountains is now available. Mrs. Whitman writes:

"September 1st 1836. You can better immagine our feelings this morning than I can describe them. I could not realize that the end of our long journey was so near. We arrose as soon as it was light, took a cup of coffe & eat of the duck we had given us last night, then dressed for Walla W. we started while it was yet early, for all were in haste to reach the desired haven. If you could have seen us now you would have been surprised for both man & beast appeared alike propeled by the same force. The whole company galloped almost all the way to the Fort. The first appearance of civilization we saw was the garden, two miles this side of the Fort. The fatigues of the long journey seemed to be forgotten in the excitement of being so near the close. Soon the Fort appeared in sight & when it was announced that we were near Mr McLeod Mr Prambran the gentleman of the house & Mr Townsand sallyed forth to meet us. After the usual introduction & salutations, we entered the Fort & were comfortably seated in cushioned armed chairs. They were just eating breakfast as we rode up soon we were at the table & were treated to fresh salmon potatoes, tea bread & butter. What a variety, thought I. You cannot immagine what an appetite these rides in the mountains give a person. I wish some of the feble ones in the States could have a ride over the mountains, they would say like me, victuals even the plainest kind never relished so well before. After breakfast we were shown the novelties of the place, they are so to us. While at breakfast, however, a young cock placed himself upon the cell of the door and crowed. Now whether it was the sight of the first white females or out of compliment to the company I know not, this much for him. I was pleased with his appearance. You may think me simple for speaking of such a small circumstance as this. No one knows the feelings occasioned by seeing objects once familiar after a long privation, especially it is heightened by the expectation of not meeting with them. The door yard was filled with hens turkeys pigeons & in another place we saw cows hogs & goats in abundance & I think the largest & fattest cattle & swine I ever saw. 'We were soon shown a room, which Mr Pambran said he had prepared for us by making two beadsteads of bunks, on hearing of our approach. It was the west bastion of the fort full of port holes in the sides, but no windows & filled with fire arms. A large cannon alway loaded stood behind the door, by one of the holes. These things did not move me. Im so well pleased with the possession of a room to shelter us from the scorching sun that I scarcely noticed them. Having arranged our things we were soon called to a feast of mellons the finest I think I ever saw or tasted. The mushmelon was the largest measuring eighteen in length, fifteen round the small end & nineteen arround the large. You may be assured we were not any of us satisfied or willing to leave the table untill we had filled our plates with chips. At four o'clock we were callid to dine I[t] consisted of pork, potatoes, beets, cabbage, turnips, tea bread & butter, my favourite dinner & much like the last dinner I eat with Mother Loomis. I am thus particular in my discription of eatibles, so that you may be assured we find something to eat beyond the Rocky mountains as well as at home. We find plenty of salt but very many here prefer to do almost & some entirely without it on their meat and other eatibles.”


On their early morning gallop the party quite certainly forded the Walla Walla River at what has come to be known by late travelers as the Threemile bridge. The gardens mentioned were on the north side of the river (also upon a small island) and were irrigated; the first irrigation in the present Walla Walla County, perhaps in all eastern Washington and Oregon. The fort itself was located on a broad flat of sandy and gravelly ground which produced nothing except scattering, stunted sagebrush. Pierre Chrysologue Pambrun, then with rank of chief trader, had been an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company with many years in the Saskatchewan and New Caledonia districts in Canada. During the next four years he and his efficient wife (of the Cree nation) became very kind and helpful neighbors to Mrs. Whitman at Waiilatpu, twenty-five miles away. Mention is made of his children's attending school at the mission, although Pambrun was a Catholic. He died in 1841 from an injury received while riding a spirited horse. Dr. Whitman attended him.

Fort Nez Perce (Walla Walla) was established in the early summer of 1818 by Donald McKenzie of the North West Company. The first officer in charge was Alexander Ross, who described it as built with four towers or bastions and a double stockade.[4] At the time the Indians thereabouts were hostile and resented intrusion by the whites and construction was unusually high and strong. With early change of sentiment by the Indians the establishment seems to have been reduced to normal form and size. Nathaniel Wyeth, in 1832, described it as of "no strength, merely sufficient to frighten Indians . . . having two bastions at the opposite corners of a square enclosure.”[5] This description agrees very well with the sketch made by Drayton of the Wilkes party in June, 1841.[6] Buildings for living and trade were inside the visible stockade; enclosures and shelter for the domestic animals were outside. The fort was entirely destroyed by accidental fire in October, 1841, and a new stockade of adobe built immediately by Mr. McKinlay, the officer in charge.

Here ended the land journey of these two courageous women over plains and mountains from the Missouri to the Columbia. After a few days at this hospitable destination they became the guests of Mr. Pambrun in a batteau bound for Fort Vancouver, nearly three hundred miles down the Columbia.[7]

Notes edit

  1. The quotations from Mrs. Whitman's journal herein used were copied from her original manuscript, now in Whitman College, Walla Walla, Washington. Photostat copy is in the Oregon Historical Society. The journal printed in the Oregon Pioneer Transactions, 1891, differs slightly from this manuscript.
  2. Wilkes gives this name as appichemens. He has a drawing of it and describes it as a thick saddle cloth placed under the pack saddle; Wilkes, Narrative, V, 217.
  3. Elevation at Bingham Springs is approximately 2750 feet and at Toll Gate, 5250 feet.
  4. Ross, Fur Hunters, I, 214–15.
  5. Wyeth, Journal, 173.
  6. Wilkes, Narrative, IV, 391.
  7. This is the first of a series of articles based on Mrs. Whitman's journal.