Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 37/The Coming of the White Women, 1836, part 3

by Thompson Coit Elliott

THE COMING OF THE WHITE WOMEN, 1836

By T. C. Elliott

(Part III)

The above title might be very aptly written "An Adventure in Oregon History." For was it not a real adventure when two women of culture and education undertook the journey across the Rocky Mountains (the first white women to do this) to carry the gospel and civilization to two of the Indian tribes of the far distant Columbia River region? At that time, 1836, the entire region west of the Rocky Mountains and north of the 42nd parallel was designated as the Oregon country, with its national title undecided.

These two women were Narcissa Prentiss Whitman, wife (and bride) of Dr. Marcus Whitman, and Eliza Spalding, wife of the Reverend Henry H. Spalding, missionaries of the Protestant faith under commission from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, of Boston. Their homes were in the central part of the state of New York, and their journey began there. The western end of the journey was at the trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Columbia at Vancouver, in the present state of Washington. While there for a few weeks Mrs. Whitman wrote to her parents the following letter:

Vancouver, Oct. 20th, 1836

Dearest Parents.

I have been able to write something of a journal from Rendezvous here. did not expect to be able to copy it, but as I have been situated for a few weeks past, have taken time to copy it & as it requires several sheets, have put it in this form as being the most compact for sending. It must answer for all in the room of letters, for I have not time to say more.

Yours affectionate Daughter

Narcissa Whitman

This journal (whether the original or the copy is not posi- tively determined) is among the archives of Whitman College at Walla Walla, Washington, and a photostat copy has been furnished for publication in the pages of the Oregon Historical Quarterly. The text differs slightly, but not essentially, from a previous printing by the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1891.

Mrs. Whitman's narrative begins at the McLeod camping place ten miles from the Rendezvous. The missionary party had moved to his camp at his request about the 11th of July, so as to be able to leave at any time. Rendezvous, the annual summer event in the fur trade of those days, was a highly exhilarating occasion, to the temptations of which Mr. McLeod of the Hudson's Bay Company did not wish his trappers and servants to be subject. It is hoped and anticipated that the story of the travel of the missionary party through South Pass and of their arrival and five or six days stay at Rendezvous may be gathered from letters of various members of the party for publication at a later date.

The annual rendezvous of the American field hunters and trappers of the Rocky Mountains with the fur traders from Saint Louis in the summer of 1836 was held in the valley of a creek flowing into Green River from the west, about sixty miles northwest of the present Union Pacific Railroad division point of Green River in Wyoming. The location was northerly of where the Sandy River flowing from South Pass empties into the Green. Seven years later than 1836 the first large train of emigrant wagons came over South Pass and down the valley of the Sandy to cross Green River and detour south to Fort Bridger (southwest of Green River on the railroad), and to then turn northward to the waters of Bear River in Idaho. These wagons made the first track of the historic Oregon trail, and, broadly speaking, the Oregon Short Line of the Union Pacific system follows that trail very closely as far as Soda Springs in Idaho. At the town of Cokeville on this railroad near the boundary line between Wyoming and Idaho the maps show a pack train trail coming from the Green River Valley and designated as the Sublette cut-off.

No attempt will be made to follow in much detail the itinerary of the McLeod-Whitman-Spalding party on this section of their journey to the Columbia. It is impossible to more than suggest certain camping places. Pack train travel did not pay much attention to grades, but was regulated by known watering places for beast and man. It is very reasonable to suppose that their route was that of this “cut-off” from Green River to Bear River. From near Cokeville to Snake fort on the Boise River their trail very certainly was closely that which became the Oregon trail of later years. In other words the adventurous fur trader first marked the path for the missionary and the pioneer.

With these remarks the journal of Mrs. Whitman may be more easily understood by the reader.

West of the Rocky Mountains.

Dearest Mother. We commenced our journey to Walla Walla July 18th 1836, under the protection of Mr. McLeod,^[1] & his company. Came ten miles, in a southwesterly direction. The Flat Head & Nez Perces Indians & some lodges of the Snake tribe, accompany us to Fort Hall. While they are with us, we shall make but one camp in a day. On the 19th we did not move at all. 20th Came twelve miles in the same direction as on the 18th over many steep & high mountains. On the 21st our course was south east in the morning. Traveled fifteen miles. Yesterday the 22nd was a tedious day to us, we started about nine o'clock A M rode untill half past four, P M. Came twenty one miles. Had two short showers in the afternoon which cooled the air considerably before this the heat was oppressive. I thought of Mothers bread & butter many times as any hungry child would, but did not find it on the way. I fancy pork & potatoes would relish extremely well. Have been living on fresh meat for two months exclusively. Am cloyed with it. I do not know how I shall endure this part of the journey. Find it much harder to make one camp in a day than we did to make two, while with Fitzpatric,^[2] for our dinner and two hours rest in the heat of the day, prepared us for a lengthy ride in the afternoon. Our ride today has not been so fatigueing or lengthy as yesterday. Rode from nine o'clock A M untill 1 o'clock P M in the same direction, south west as yesterday. Felt a calm and peaceful state of mind all day. Had sweet communion with him who delights to dwell with the humble & contrite in heart. Especial in the morning. I had a freedom in prayer for my beloved Parents. Earnestly desired that God would bless them in their declining years, & smoth their passage to the tomb; that in the absence of their earthly comforts, he would fill their souls with his more immediate presance, so that they may never have cause to regret the sacrifice they have made for his Name Sake. Father, accept the sacrifice & may they prove a blessing to the world.

24th Sab Eve.Our route today has been a very mountainous one. Came about eight miles. Painful as it is for me to journey on the Holy Sabbath, I have enjoyed notwithstanding a melting sense of the presence of that Being who has promised to be "with his deciples always." Found it good to rest my soul on this today. Although I can truly say "my soul thirsts yea even faints for the courts of my God," the word of his saints below; the privation has been made good to me by a rich supply from the fountain head God, the Father, Son & Holy Ghost. O blessed blessed privaledge, that such a sinner as I may have access to a mercy seat through such a Saviour as Jesus Christ. It is good to feel that he is all I want, & all my righteousness, & if I had ten thousand lives I would give them all to him. I long to be more like him, to possess more of his meek Spirit.

25thCame fifteen miles today. Very mountainous. Encamped on Smith's creeks^[3] a small branch of Bear River. Bear River emties into Salt Lake (called on maps, Timpanogos) That Lake has not outlet & is said to be a great curiosity by those who have visited it. Large quantities of Salt may be obtained from the Shore and that of the finest quality. We do not expect to pass it, said to be a tedious route, no water or buffalo in going from it. Endured the ride today very well notwithstanding its difficulties. Very mountainous. Paths winding on the sides of steep mountains In some places the path is so narrow as scarcely to afford room for the animals to place his foot. One after the other, we pass along with cautious steps. Passed a creek on which were a fine bunch of Gooseberries, nearly ripe relished them very much. They are not as sweet when ripe as those in the states nor prickly. Husband has had a tedious time with the waggon today. Got set in the creek this morning while crossing, was obliged to wade considerably in geting it out. After that in going between two mountains, on the side of one so steep that it was difficult for horses to pass the waggon was upset twice. Did not wonder at this at all. It was a greater wonder that it was not turning a somerset continually. It is not very greatful to my feelings to see him wear out with such excessive fatigue as I am obliged too. He not as fleshy as he was last winter. All the most difficult part of the way he has walked in his laborious attempt to take the waggon over.

26thDid not move camp today. McKay^[4] has been preparing to send out trappers from this place. Husband has been sick today & so lame with the rheumatism as to be scarcely able to move. It is a great privaledge that we can lie still today on his account, for he needs rest. Heat oppressive. About noon some of the Indians set the willows on fire near the camp, which came near burning us out. It was stoped before any injury was done to us save it caused some to remove their lodges & we our tent.

27thHad quite a level route today. Came down Bear River and encamped^[5] on Pommow's Fork a small branch. Mr McKay sent off about 30 of his men today as trappers. Several lodges of Indians left us also, to go in another direction, & we expect more will leave us tomorrow. They wish to go a different route from Mr McLeod. We are still in a dangerous country but our company is large enough for safety. Our cattle endure the journey remarkably well. They are a source of great comfort to us in this land of scarcity. they supply us with sufficient milk for our tea & coffee which is indeed a luxury. We are obliged to shoe some of them on account of sore feet. Have seen no buffalo since we left Rendezvous. Had no game of any kind except a few messes of Antelope which John's Father gave us. We have plenty of dry Buffalo meat which we purchased of the Indians & dry it is for me. I can scarcely eat it, it appears so filthy, but it will keep us alive & we ought to be thankful for it. We have had a few meals of fresh fish also which relished well. Have the prospect of obtaining plenty in one or two weeks more. Found no berries. Neither have I found any of Ma's bread. (Girls do not waste the bread, if you know how well I should relish even the dryest morsel you would save every piece carefully.) Do not think I regret coming. No, far from it. I would not go back for a world. I am contented & happy notwithstanding I get very hungry & weary. Have six weeks steady journeying before us. Will the Lord give me patience to endure it. Feel sometime as if it was a long time to be traveling. Long for rest, but must not murmur. We are told we shall find the heat greater as we go on than we have found it previously to this. Feel to pity the poor Indian women who are continually traveling in this manner during their lives & know no other comfort. They do all the work, such as getting the wood, preparing food, picking their lodges, packing & driving their animals, the complete slaves of their husbands. I am making some little proggress in their language long to be able to converse with them about the Saviour. They all appear anxious to converse with us & to be understood by us.

28thVery mountainous all the way today, came over another ridge Rode from eight A M till two P M. We thought yesterday the Indians were all going to leave us except two or three but not one has; They fear to on account of the Black Feet tribe, who are their enemies, and would destroy them all if they could. The Flat Head tribe are nearly extinguished by them. One of the axle trees of the waggon broke today. was a little rejoiced, for we were in hopes they would leave it & have no more trouble with it. Our rejoycing was in vain however for they are making a cart of the hind wheels this afternoon & lashing the forward wheels to it, intending to take it through in some shape or other. They are so resolute & untiring in their efforts they will probably succeed. Had a little fresh fish for breakfast & some Antelope for supper sent us by Mr McLeod, and other friends in camp. Thus the Lord provides & smoths all our way for us, giving us strength.

July 29thHad a tedious ride today. Started the usual time, but did not come into camp until nearly four o'clock P M. Mr Gray^[6] was quite sick this morning & inclined to fall behind camp. Husband & myself thought it would not be prudent to leave him alone & rode with him about two hours & half, when he became very feeble & inclined to lie down. By this time we were so far behind camp that Husband thought it not prudent for me to remain with them any longer & sent me on to overtake them. Soon after Mr Gray gave out entirely & Husband left him to come for the cart & return for him. I had overtaken an Indian & told him how sick he was, who went back met Husband & both returned to Mr Gray. The Indian helped him on his horse got on behind him, supported him in his arms & in this manner rode slowly into camp. This was a welcomed relief. All rejoyced to see them come in for some of us had been riding seven hours others eight, without any nourishment. It is good to stop a while under such circumstances, I think.

July 30thWent today ten miles off our route with Husband Mr McLeod & a few others, to visit the Soda Springs.^[7] Was much delighted with the view of the wonders of Nature we saw there. The first object of curiosity we came to were several white mounds on the top of which were small springs of soda. These mounds were covered with a crustation made from the evaporation of the water which is continually running in small quantities from these springs. The next object we saw was a little singular It consisted of an opening like a crater about three feet in diameter, by the side of a small stream. On some rocks a little below in the opening were dead flies & birds in abundance which had approached so near the crater, as to be choked with the gas which it constantly emits. On putting the face down, the breath is stoped instantly, & a low rumbling noise like the roaring of fire is heard beneath. Having satisfied our curiosity here we passed through a grove of juniper & pich pine trees, & a small distance from them came to a large spring of soda water Clear as crystal, effervescing continually. It appeared of great depth. At a considerable distance below the surface, there were two white substances, in appearance like lumps of Soda in a concrete state. We took with us some soda & Acid to try the effect of a mixture & found that it effervesed with both, but the effervescence was greater with the Acid, than with the Soda. Drunk freely of the water, found it very pleasant. There were five or six other springs near Bear River which we did not visit, in consequence of loosing sight of part of our company & being obliged to hasten back. The ground in every direction was covered with lava. Gathered several fine specimans. We desired more time to visit other curiosities there but was unable to, for camp was moving from us continually. Rode in all thirty miles, & found them encamped under a bluff covered with black basalt.

31stOur ride was not lengthy today which I felt to be a great favour. Am nearly sick in consequence of excessive fatigue yesterday. Heat oppressive in the middle of the day.

August 1st(Monday) Monthly Concert day. How sweet & sacred the influence of this day upon the weary & solitary Missionary.

2ndHad an unusual long ride today. Heat excessive. Truly I thought "the Heavens over us were brass, & the earth iron under our feet." Our route for two or three days past has been quite level. But the same scenery prevails, rocks & sandy plains covered with a species of wormwood called sage of a pale green, offensive both to the sight & smell. We meet with frequent fertile spots however, often enough to furnish us & our animals with a comfortable Inn for the night. Had a feast of service berries today the first ripe ones we have seen. They are a small black berry, very sweet, something like the Pear in its flavour. Stoped & gathered some which rested me much, & answered the place of a dinner very well.

3dCame to Fort Hall,^[8] this morning distance eight miles. A cool breeze made our ride very pleasant. Husband & myself were alone entirely behind the dust of camp & enjoyed a sweet repast in conversing about home & dear friends. Particularly Mother Loomis in her new situation. Thought a sight of her in her Dairy would be particularly pleasant. Was much cheered with a view of the Fort at a considerable distance. Any thing that looks like a house makes us glad. Called and were hospitably entertained by Capt Thing who keeps the Fort. It was built by Cap Wyeth a gentleman from Boston, whom we saw at Rendezvous, on his way to the east. Our dinner consisted of dry buffalo meat, turnips & fried bread, which was a luxury. Mountain bread is simply course flour & water mixed & roasted or fried in buffalo grease. To one who has had nothing but meat for a long time this relishes very well. For tea we had the same with the addition of some stewed service berries.

4thEnjoyed the cool retreat of an uper room this morning while writing. The buildings of the Fort are made of hewed logs, roof covered with mud bricks, chimney & fireplaces also of the same. No windows except a square hole in the roof & in the bastion a few port holes large enough for guns only. The buildings are all enclosed in a strong log wall. This affords them a place of safty when attacked by hostile Indians, as they frequently are, the Fort being in the Black Feet country. We were invited to breakfast & dinner, dined with them only. Since dinner visited the garden & corn field. The turnips in the garden appear thrifty, the tops very large & small but the roots quite small. The peas looked well but had most of them been gathered by the mice. Saw a few onions that were going to seed, these looked quite natural. This is all the garden contained. He told us his corn did extremely well untill the eighth of June when the frost of one night completely prostrated it. It has since come up again but does not look as well as before. This is their first attempt at cultivation. The building at Fort William on Larimys Fork of Platte, Black Hills, are made in the same way, but larger & more finished than here. Here we had stools to sit on there we had very comfortable

chairs, bottomed with buffalo skins. Thus you see, we have a house of entertainment almost or quite as often as Christian of the Pilgrim's Progress did. We expect one more before we get to Walla Walla. That is Snake Fort belonging to Mr McKay who is journeying with us. If prospered we expect to be there in fifteen days. From this on our company will be small. The Indians will leave us today except one or two who go with us to assist in driving the cattle. Kentuck who went with Mr. Parker^[9] last year & the Chief Rotten belly^[10] The whole tribe are exceedingly anxious to have us go with them, use every argument they can invent to prevail on us to do so, & not only argument, but stratagem. We all think it not best. We are very much fatigued & wish to get through as soon as possible. To go with them would take us two months or more, when now we expect to go to W. W. in twenty-five days, or be there by the first of September. When we get there rest will be sweet to us. So it will be to the christian, when he gets to heaven. Ah! will Mother & Father get there before I do? if so then they will be ready to greet me upon its threshold. Here we have raised our Ebenezer, saying, "Hitherto the Lord hath helped us." Now we leave it & pass on. Farewell Dear Parents for the presant. Our animals are nearly ready. It is now half past two expect to go but a short distance & encamp.

5th Friday Morn. Came all of ten miles last eve did not arrive here untill after dark.^[11] Mr McLeod & his company started earlier than we did intending to come but a little way from the Fort just to make a commencement. We could not get ready to start with him & the man who piloted us, led us wrong, much out of the way. Those on whom we depended to drive our cattle, disappointed us. Husband & myself fell in behind them to assist John Aits,^[12] who was alone with them. this made us later into camp than the rest of our com. We came through several swamps & all the last part of the way we were so swarmed with musquetoes as to be scarcely able to see especially while crossing the Pourtniff which we did just before we came into camp. This is the widest river I have forded on horseback. It seemed as if the cows would run mad for the Musquetoes We could scarcely get them along. Mr McLeod met us and invited us to tea, which was a great favour. Thus blessings gather thick arround us. Fort Hall is situated on a flue of Snake River (called on maps, Lewis) about ten miles above the junction of the Pourtniff in its valley. We have been in the mountains so long find the scenery of this valley very greatful to the eye, with a large river on my right and one on my left hand skirted with timber. This is our first sight of Snake River at Fort Hall. We shall follow the course of it on the south side, for many days. We have passed many places where the soil is good and would be fertile if there were frequent rains. Usually the country is barren & would be a sandy desert were it not for the sage, which is its only production, in some places it grows in bunches to the height of a mans head & it is so stif and hard as to be much in the way of our animals & waggon Its common height is just above the ancles. Eve. We passed the American falls in Snake river just after dinner. The roar of the water is heard at a considerable distance. Our ride has not been very tedious today for us for we stoped during the greatest heat for rest & dinner. Now the Indians are not with us we shall expect to make two camps. I feel this to be a great mercy to us weak females for it was more than we could well endure to travel during the heat of the day without any refreshment.

6th Route very bad & difficult today, especially in the forenoon. We crossed a small stream, full of falls a short distance above where it emties into the Snake River. The only pass where we could cross was just on the edge of rocks above one of the falls. While the pack animals both ours & the Company's were crossing there was such a rush as to crowd two of our horses over the falls, both packed with dry meat. It was with great difficulty they were got out, one of them was in nearly an hour, much to his injury. Had a fine breeze during most of the day. Heat very great when otherwise. No game taken today. We have a little rice to eat with our dry mest given us by Mr McLeod, which makes it relish quite well.

7thCame fifteen miles without seeing water, over a dry parch earth, covered with its native sage as parched as the earth itself. Heat excessive but mitigated with a gentle breeze. We have encamped on a fine place plenty of good grass for our weary animals. Thus are blessings so mingled, that it seems as if there was nothing else but mercy and blessings all the way. Was there ever a journey like this, performed where the sustaining hand of God has been so manifest every moment. Surely the children of Israel could not have been more sensible of the "pillar of cloud by day & of the pillar of fire by night," than we have been of that Hand that has led us thus safely on. God has heard prayer in our behalf, & even now while I am writing on this Holy day is the sweet incence of prayer ascending before the throne of Heavenly Grace. Nor are we forgoten by our beloved churches at home in the prayers of the Sanctuary. We are too sensible of its blessed effects to believe otherwise & O how comforting is this thought to the heart of the Missionary. We love to think & talk of home with such feelings as that. It warms our hearts, strengthens & encourages us in the work of our beloved Master & makes our journeyings easy.

8thMon. Eve. Snake River. Have an excellent amp ground tonight, plenty of excellent fead for our horses & cattle. Quite a change in the temperatures of the atmosphere since yesterday noon. It was so cool last night & we have such a wind today, that we and our animals have traveled more comfortably for it. We think it remarkable that our cattle should endure the journey as well as they do. We have two sucking calves that appear to be in very good spirits, they suffer some from sore feet, otherwise they have come on very well. Have come eighteen miles today & have taken it so deliberately that it has been easy for us. The hunters came in last night well loaded. They had been in the mountains two days after game. Killed three Elks & two Antelopes. This is the first Elk meat we have had & the last opportunity we expect to have of taking any more game. We are told many have traveled the whole distance from Rendezvous to Walla W without any fresh, living entirely upon the dry We think ours will last us untill we reach the Salmon fishery, at Snake Falls. Thus we are well provided for all the way, contrary to our expectations. Mr McLeod has excelent hunters, this a reason why we live so well. There is but [little] game & that little is found at a great distance from the route

11thTeaus & Wed. have been very tedious days, both for man and beast. Lengthy marches without water. Not so tedious today for length, but the route has been rocky & sandy. Had a present tonight of a fresh Salmon, also a plate of fried cakes from Mr McLeod (Girls if you wish to know how they taste, you can have the pleasure by taking a little flour & water & make some dough roll it thin, cut it into square blocks, then take some beaf fat & fry them. You need not put either salt or pearl ash in your dough). Believe me I relish these as well as I ever did any made at home.

12 Frid.Raised camp this morn at Sunrise. Came two hours ride to the Salmon fishery. Found a few lodges of Diggers of the Snake tribe (so called because they live on roots during winter) who have just commenced fishing. Obtained some & boiled for our breakfast find it good eating. Had we been a few days earlier we should not have been able to obtain any fish, for they had but just come up. They never go higher than these falls, but come here every season. Friday eve. Dear Harriet the little trunk you gave me has come with me so far & now I must leave it here alone. Poor little trunk, I am sorry to leave thee. Thou must abide here alone & no more by thy presance remind me of my Dear Harriet. Twenty miles below the Falls on Snake River. This shall be thy place of rest. Farewell little Trunk. I thank thee for thy faithful services & that I have been cheered by thy presance so long. Thus we scatter as we go along. The hills are so steep rocky that Husband thought it best to lighten the waggon as much as possible & take nothing but the wheels, leaving the box with my trunk. I regret leaving anything that came from home especially that trunk, but it is best. It would have been better for us not to have attempted to bring any baggage whatever only what necessary to use on the way. It costs so much labour, besides the expense of animals. If I were to make this journey again I would make quite different preperations. To pack & unpack so many times & cross so many streams, where the packs frequently get wet, requires no small amount of labour, besides the injury done to the articles. Our books what few we have, have been wet several times. In going from Elmira to Williamsport this trunk fell in to the creek & wet all my books & Richards, too very much. The sleigh box came off & all of us came near a wetting, like wise The custom of the country is to possess nothing & then you will loose nothing while traveling farewell for the present.

13th Sat.Dear H. Mr McKay has asked the privaledge of taking the little trunk along so that my soliloquy about it last night was for nought, however it will do me no good it may him. We have come at least fifteen miles & have had the worst route in all the journey for the cart, we might have had a better one, but for being misled by some of the company who started out before their leaders. It was two o'clock before we came into camp. They were preparing to cross Snake River.^[13] The river is divided by two islands into three branches & is fordable. The packs are placed upon the top of the highest horses & in this way crossed without wetting. Two of the tallest horses were selected to carry Mrs. S & myself over Mr McLeod gave me his & rode mine. The last branch we rode as much as a half mile in crossing & against the current too which made it hard for the horses the water being up to their sides. Husband had considerbly difficulty in crossing the cart. Both the cart & the mules were capsized in the water and the mules entangled in the harness. They would have drowned, but for a desperate struggle to get them ashore. Then after putting two of the strongest horses before the cart & two men swimming behind to steady it, they succeeded in getting it over. I once thought that crossing streams would be the most dreadful part of the journey. I can now cross the most difficult stream without the least fear. There is one manner of crossing which Husband has tried, but I have not, neither do I wish to Take an Elk Skin and streach it over you spreading yourself out as much as possible. Then let the Indian women carfully put you on the water, & with a cord in the mouth they will swim & drag you over. (Edward how do you think you would like to ride this way.)

15thYesterday Mr McLeod with most of his men left us wishing to hasten his arrival at Snake Fort, leaving us a pilot & his weakest animals to come in with us at our leisure.^[14] This is a relief to us for it is difficult to bring our cattle up to the speed they wish to travel we have had such a cool wind today & it has been so comfortable traveling that we have made better proggress than usual. Considerable stony however. We passed the hot Springs just before noon which are quite a curiosity. Boiled a bit of dry Salmon in one of them in five minutes.

16thThis evening found a plenty of berries called hawthorn on the stream where we have encamped. They are as large as a cherry & taste much like a mealy sweet apple. Our route on this side of the river is less hilly & difficult than on the south side & said to be two days shorter.

19thArrived at Snake Fort about noon. It is situated on Big Wood River, so called because the timber is larger than any to be seen this side of the mountains. It consists chiefly of cotton wood, and is small compared with timber in the States Snake Fort is owned & built by Mr McKay one of company whom we expect to leave here. He with Mr McLeod gave us a hearty welcome. Dined with them. Mr McLeod was ready to leave on the morrow but said he would stay a day longer to give us the opportunity of doing some necessary work, for which we were thankful.

20th Sat.Last night I put my cloths in water & this morning finished washing before breakfast. I find it not very agreable to do such work in the middle of the day when I have no shelter to protect me from the suns schorching rays. This is the third time I have washed since I left the states, or home either. Once at Fort Williams & at Rendezvous. Mr McLeod call this eve to see if we were ready to leave Observed that we had been so engaged in labor as to have no time for rest & proposed for our sakes (the Ladies) to remain over the Sabbath This I can assure you was a favour for which we can never be to thankful for as our souls need the rest of the Sab, as well as our bodies.

21st Sabbath.Rich with heavenly blessings has this day of rest been to my soul Mr S was invited to preach in the Fort at eleven o'clock. The theme was the character of the blessed Saviour & how pleasing to dwell upon its beauties, his love to us, as exhibited in his life & actions. All listened with good attention to the subject.^[15]

1. John McLeod, chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company. Without his guidance and assistance the journey of this missionary party to the Columbia would have been disastrous, if not impossible.
2. Thomas Fitzpatrick, who had been in charge of the party of American fur traders from the Missouri River to Rendezvous; see Chittenden, American Fur Trade, 259.
3. Near present Cokeville, Wyoming.
4. Thomas McKay, clerk in the Hudson's Bay Company and stepson of Dr. John McLoughlin, next in authority in the McLeod party.
5. This camp was probably near present Montpelier, on the Union Pacific Railroad in Idaho.
6. William H. Gray of the missionary party, in later years author of an alleged history of Oregon bitterly critical of the Hudson's Bay Copany.
7. A well known point on the Oregon trail of later years; a very good description of it.
8. Three and one half days travel from Soda Springs and fifteen and one half from Rendezvous, very good progress. We here have a picture of the original fort built and owned by Nathaniel Wyeth of Boston; in 1837 it was sold to the Hudson's Bay Company and rebuilt with adobe stockade.
9. Samuel Parker, who had traveled with the Nez Perces the year before; see his Journal of an Exploring Tour.
10. See Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXXVII, 92, 93.
11. The pack trail evidently followed the Snake River as closely as possible all the way to Glenn's Ferry and missed some of the sites of present day towns and cities.
12. One of the Indian boys who drove the cattle.
13. Glenn's Ferry, Idaho, a very difficult and dangerous crossing of Snake River. The emigrant trains found it so in later years.
14. From this river crossing the trail turned north of the present line of travel by rail or highway over a dry and dusty country to Emigrant Point overlooking the Boise River just east of the city of Boise; thence west along that river to a crossing place near Caldwell and on to Snake fort, then so called, about six miles above the mouth of that river. Thomas McKay was then in charge of that trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company.
15. For continuation of this journal see Oregon Historical Quarterly, June and September, 1936.