Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 4, Blouses) (IA completecoursein04cono).pdf/90

pattern. There are three ways of doing this. It can be fitted out in darts, the pattern spread at the armhole or pleats laid in at the underarm seam.

Fig. (99) A shoulder dart takes out some of the fullness at the bottom

The simplest way, of course, is to lay in darts from the bust to the waist-line. Another way of getting rid of the fullness in darts, is to place a dart at the shoulder and lap the pattern below the bust. To do this, mark about center-way through the front of the pattern, following the slant of the shoulder in the upper portion and then running the line parallel to the center-front. Cut the pattern along this line and lap out the desired amount of material below the bust: this will spread the pattern above the bust. (See Fig. 99.) Mark around the piece for the new pattern.

When there is just a little material to be