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In old meat, a streak of horn runs between the fat and lean of the sirloin and ribs ; the harder this is the older, and the flesh is not well flavoured. the beef be to young, the fat will be like mutton fat, and the lean of a pale colour.
Veal should be judged by the kidney, which ought to be well covered with white thick fat. The finest calves have the smallest kidneys. When the fat around the kidney is soft and greenish it is getting tainted. The other parts should be dry and white, without any disagreeable smell; not clammy nor spotted.
Mutton is best about five years old, and not going under three. Choose it by the lean being firm grained and of good colour, and by the fat white and firm. Ewe is paler, but not so well flavoured as wether mutton. Ram mutton is strong flavored, high-coloured, and the fat spongy. Black-faced is sweetest and always preferred.
Lamb.—It is best when the quarters are short and thick, and the neck fat. The eyes should be full and bright. If there be a faint smell about the kidney, it is growing stale. The season for grass lamb is from April to August.
Of Pork, when fine, the rind is thin; if you and well-fed, the lean breaks on being pinched, all the fat is white. The lean is also smooth and dry. Of old pork the rind is thick and tough. Small greasy lumps and kernels mixed with the fat is sign of measly pork.
Of good Bacon the rind is likewise thin, the fat firm and white, the lean of a bright red and adhering close to the bone. It is rusty, if there be an appearance of yellow in the fat.
The best way of choosing Hams is by sticking a narrow blunt knife close by the bone. The ham
