ing, the magnificence of jewels and crimson velvet and silver and gold dazzling, the crowd sufibcating, the incense blinding.
The prettiest effect in every church was caused by the orange-trees and rose-bushes, which covered the steps of the altars, up to where the magnificence of the altar itself blazed out; and the most picturesque effect was produced by the different orders of monks in their gowns and hoods, either lying on their faces or standing ranged with torches, like figures carved in stone.
In the passage leading to most of the churches was a table, at which several ladies of the highest rank sat collecting alms for the poor. The fair quêtenses had not been very successful, and that chiefly amongst the lower classes. The fatigue was terrible, walking for so many hours on that bad pavement with thin satin shoes; so that at length our feet seemed to move mechanically, and we dropped on our knees before each altar, like machines touched by a spring, and rose again with no small effort. Of all the churches we entered that night, the cathedral was the most magnificent, but the most beautiful and tasteful was San Francisco. The crowd there was so dense, that we were almost carried off our feet, and were obliged, in defiance of all rule, to take the arms of our caballeros. Still it was worth the trouble of making our way through it, to see such a superbly illuminated altar. It was now eleven o'clock, and the crowd were breaking up, as the churches are shut before midnight. In one corner of the middle aisle, near the door, was the representation of a
