Index:Life in Mexico vol 1.djvu

Life in Mexico vol 1.djvu

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CONTENTS.

 

 








LETTER THE FIRST.
Departure of the "Norma" — Last Look of New York Bay — Fellow Passengers — Contrary Winds — Deceitful Appearances — Sun-set in Southern Latitudes — Seas passed over by Columbus — Varied Occupations on Ship-board — Berry Islands — Bahama Banks — Evening in a Tropical Sea — L. E. L. — Pan of Matanzas — Morro Castle-Bay of Havana — Arrival — Handsome House in Havana — Sights and Sounds, 1
LETTER THE SECOND
Havana Aristocracy — Lucia de Lammermoor — La Rossi and Montresor — Brig of War — Countess de V —— a — Dinner at H —— a's — Southerly Winds — View from the Balcony — Quinta of Count V —— a — San Cristobal — Mass at San Felipe — Erard Harp — Dinner at General M —— o's — A Desert at Havana — Queen of Spain's Birth-day — Dinner at the Yutendencia — La Pantanelli — Theatre of Tacon — Railroad — Cure by Lightning — Shops — Ball at the Countess F —— a's — Last Visit — Souvenirs, 16
LETTER THE THIRD
Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — Life on Board a Man of War — "Balances" — Fishing — "Le Petit Tambour" — Cocoa-nuts — A Norte — Spanish Proverb — Peak of Orizava — Theory and Practice — Norte Chocolatero — Contrary Winds — Chain of Mountains — Goleta, 26
LETTER THE FOURTH.
Distant View of Vera Cruz — Pilots — Boat from the City — Mutual Salutes — Approach to Vera Cruz — Crowd on the Wharf — House of Don Dionisio V —— o — Guard of Honour — German Piano — Supper — Madonna — Aspect of the City — Sopilotes — Deliberations — General Guadalupe Victoria — Two-headed Eagle — Dilapidated Saint — Harp — Theatre — Doña Innocencia Martinez — Invitation from General Santa Anna, 36
LETTER THE FIFTH.
Departure from Vera Cruz — Sand Hills — Oriental Scene — Mango de Clavo — General Santa Anna — Breakfast — Escort and Diligence — Santa Fé — Puente Nacional — Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward — Country in December — Don Miguel — First Impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio — German Musicians — Sleeping Captain — Approach to Jalapa — Appearance of the City — Cofre de Perote — Flowers — House and Rock — Last View of Jalapa — Change of Scenery — San Miguel de los Soldados — Perote — Striking Scene before Daybreak — Non-arrival of Escort — Yankee Coachman-Dispute — Departure — Company of Lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La Ventilla — Pulque — Double Escort — Crosses — Brigand-looking Tavern keeper — Ojo de Agua — Arrival at Puebla — Dress of the Peasants — Christmas-eve — Inn — "Nacimiento", 47
LETTER THE SIXTH.
Departure from Puebla — Chirimoyas — Rio Frio — Indian Game — Black Forest — Valley of Mexico — Recollections of Tenochtitlan — Mexican Officer — Reception — Scenery — Variety of Dresses — Cheers — Storm of Rain — Entry to Mexico — Buenavista — House by Daylight — Sights from the Windows — Visits — Mexican Etiquette — Countess C — a — Flowers in December — Serenade — Patriotic Hymn, 71
LETTER THE SEVENTH.
Débût in Mexico — Cathedral — Temple of the Aztecs — Congregation — Stone of Sacrifices — Palace — Importunate léperos — Visit to the President — Countess C —— a — Street Cries — Tortilleras — Sartor Resartus, 90
LETTER THE EIGHTH.
Ball in Preparation — Agreeable Family — Fine Voices — Theatre — Smoking — Castle of Chapultepec — Viceroy Galvez — Montezuma's Cypress — Vice-Queen — Valley of Mexico — New Year's Day — Opening of Congress — Visits from the Diplomatic Corps — Poblana Dress — "Funcion Extraordinaria" — Theatre — Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe — Divine Painting — Bishop — Beggars — Mosquitoes' Eggs, 101
LETTER THE NINTH.
Visits from Spaniards — Visit from the President — Disquisition — Poblana Dress — Bernardo the Matador — Bull-fight Extraordinary — Plaza de Toros — Fireworks — Portrait of C —— n — Fancy Ball — Dress — Costume of the Patronesses — Beauty in Mexico — Doctor's Visit — Cards of faire part — Marquesa de San Roman — Toilet in Morning Visits of ceremony — Attempt at Robbery — Murder of a consul — La Güera Rodriguez — Dr. Plan — M. de Humboldt — Anecdote — Former Customs, 116
LETTER THE TENTH.
San Fernando — House of Perez de Galvez — A Removal — Size of the Houses — Old Monastery — View by Sunset — Evening Visits — Mexican Etiquette — Night View from the Azotea — Tacubaya — Magueys — Making of Pulque — Organos and Nopal — Environs of Mexico — Miracle — Hacienda — View from the Countess C —— a's House — Arzobispado — Anecdote — Comparative view of beauty — Indians — Rancheritas — Mexican Cordiality — Masses for the Dead — San Agustin — Form of Invitation — Death of a Senator — A Mistake, 137
LETTER THE ELEVENTH.
Calle de Tacuba — The Leap of Alvarado — The "Noche Triste" — Sale of a Curate's goods — Padre Loon — Leprosy — Pictures — The Annunciation — The Alameda Paseo de Bucarelli — The Viga — Indians in canoes — A Murder — A country fête — Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino — The Jota Arragonesa — Old Soldiers, 156
LETTER THE TWELFTH.
The Viga during the Carnival — Variety of equipages — The Millionaires — The monks — Masked ball — An alarming sight — Medical students — Dinner at the Prussian minister's — Rides on horseback — Indian love of flowers — Santa Anita — The Chinampas — Their Origin — Indians in canoes — Song of "El Palomo" — Fighting — The great lakes — The Drain of Huehuetoca — The great market of Tlatelolco, 171
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH.
Convent of San Joaquin — Mexico in the morning — Tacuba — Carmelite Prior — Convent Garden — Hacienda of Los Morales — El Olivar — A Huacamaya — Humming birds — Correspondence — Expected consecration — Visit to the Mineria — Botanic Garden — Arbol de las Manitas — The Museum — Equestrian statue — Academy of Painting and Sculpture — Disappointment, 187
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH.
Palm Sunday — Holy Thursday — Variety of costumes — San Francisco — Santa Domingo — Santa Teresa — Nuns — Stone bust — The Academy — Religious procession — Pilgrimage to the churches — Santa Clara — Nun's voice — Orange-trees and rose bushes — The Cathedral illuminated — Our Saviour in chains — Good Friday — The great square towards Evening — Dresses of men, women, and children — Approach of the Host — Judas — Great Procession — Misèrer — The Square by moonlight — A Lonely Walk — Sabado de Gloria — Ball in Contemplation — Weekly soirées — Embroidered muslins — A Tertulia at home, 197
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH.
Letter from the Archbishop — Visit to the "Encarnacion" — Reception — Description — The novices — Convent-supper — Picturesque scene — Sonato on the organ — Attempt at Robbery-Alarms of the Household — Visit to San Agustin — Anonymous letter — The Virgin de los Remedios — Visit to the chapel — The padre — The image — Anecdote of the large pearl — A mine, 217
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH.
Mexico in May — Leave Mexico for Santiago — Coach of Charles Tenth — Mexican travelling — General aspect of the country — Village of Santa Clara — Robbers' House — Temples of the sun and moon — San Juan — Mexican Posada — School-house — Skulls — Hard fare — Travelling dress — Sopayuca — Military administrador — Santiago — Matadors and picadors — Evenings in the country — Dances — Mexican songs — Cempoala — Plaza de Toros — Skill of the horsemen — Omatusco — Accident — Tulansingo — Beautiful garden — Mexican dishes — Fruits — Horses — Games of forfeits — Ranchera's dress — Young Girls and their admirers — Verses — Knowledge of simple medicine — Indian baths — Hidden treasures — Anecdote, 231
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH.
Arrival of Tepenacasco — Lake with wild duck — Ruined hacienda — Sunset on the plains — Troop of asses — Ride by moonlight — Leave Tepenacasco — San Miguel — Description — Thunder storm — Guasco — Journey to Real del Monte — English road — Scenery — Village of Real — Count de Regla — Director's house — English breakfast — Visit to the mines — mining speculations-Grand scenery — Visit to Regla — The cascade — The storm — Loneliness — A Journey in storm and darkness — Return to Tepenacasco — Journey to Sopayuca — Narrow escape — Famous bull — Return to Mexico, 258
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH.
English Ball — Dresses — Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival of the Pope's bull-Consecration of the archbishop — Foreign ministers — Splendour of the cathedral — Description of the ceremony, 273
LETTER THE NINETEENTH.
Mexican servants — Anecdotes — Remedies — An unsafe Porter — Galopinas — The reboso — The sarape — Women-cooks — Foreign Servants — Characteristics of Mexican servants — Servants' wages — Nun of the Santa Teresa — Motives for taking the veil, 282
LETTER THE TWENTIETH.
The Convent entry — Dialogue — A Chair in church — Arrival of the nun — Dress — José Maria — Crowd — Withdrawal of the black curtain-The Taking of the veil — The sermon — A dead body — Another victim — Convent of the Encarnacion — Attempt at a hymn — Invitation — Morning visit — The nun and her mother — Banquet — Taking leave — Ceremony of the veil-taking — A Beautiful victim — The Last look — Presentation to the bishop — Reflections — Verses, 294
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST.
San Agustin — The Gambling fête — The Beauties of the village — The road from Mexico — Entry to San Agustin — The gambling houses — San Antonio — The Pedregal — Last day of the fête — The cock-pit — The boxes-The cock-fight — Decorum — Comparisons — Dinner — Ball at Calvario — House of General Moran — View of the gambling tables — The Advocate — Ball at the Plaza de Gallos — Return to Mexico — Reflections — Conversation between two ministers, 310
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND.
Countess C —— a — Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General Moran's — Dowager Marquesa — Fête at San Antonio — Approach of the rainy season — Diamonds and plate — Great ball — Night travelling — Severe storm — Chapter of accidents — Corpus Christi — Poblana dress — Book club — Ball — Humming bird — Franciscan friar — Missions to Old and New California — Zeal and endurance of the missionaries — Present condition — Convent gardener, 321
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD.
The President — Yturbide — Visit from the Archbishop — Señor Cañedo — General Almonte — Señor Cuevas — Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico — Of Señor Posada — His life — Mexican charity — Wax figures — Anecdote — Valuable present — Education — Comparison — Schools — Opportunities — Natural talent — Annual — Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the editor — Families of the old school — Morals — Indulgence — Manners — Love of country — Colleges, 335
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH.
Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and General Urrea — The Federalists — The President imprisoned — Firing — Cannon — First news — Escape — Proclamation of the government — Cannonading — Count C —— a — Houses deserted — Countess del V —— e — Proclamation of the federalists — Circular of the federalists — Scarcity of provisions — Bursting of a shell — Refugees — Dr. Plan — Young lady shot — Gomez Farias — Rumours — Address of Gomez Farias — Balls and bullets — Visit from the —— Minister — Arrival of Monsieur de —— Expected attack — Skirmish — Appearance of the street — San Cosmè — General —— — The Count de B —— — More Rumours — Suspense — Cannonading — Government bulletin — Plan of the rebels defeated — Proclamation of the President — Of General Valencia — Maternal affection - Fresh reports — Families leaving the city — Letter from Santa Anna — Bustamante's letter when imprisoned — Propositions — Refusal — Tacubaya — Archbishop — Fresh proposals — Refusal — Second letter from Santa Anna — Government bulletin — Proclamations — An awkward mistake — The Archbishop visits the President — Conclusion of the revolution — Government newspaper — Circulars, 348
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH.
Plan of the federalists — Letter from Farias — Signing of articles — Dispersion of the "pronunciados" — Conditions — Orders of General Valencia — Of the Governor — Address of General Valencia — Departure of our guests — The Cosmopolita — State of the palace and streets — Bulletin of the firing — Interior of houses — Escape of families — Conduct of the troops — Countess del V —— e — Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Discussion in Congress — Leprosy, 381
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH.
Visiters — Virgin de los Remedios — Encarnacion — Fears of the nuns — Santa Teresa — Rainy season — Amusing scene — "Está a la disposicion de V." — Mexican sincerity — Texian Vessels — Fine hair — School mistress — Climate — Its effects — Nerves — Tours de Force — Anniversary — Speech — Paseo — San Angel — Tacubaya — Army of "the three guarantees" — Plan of Yguala — A murder — Indian politeness — Drunkenness — Señor Canedo — Revolutions in Mexico — The Peñon — The Baths — General — Situation and view — Indian family — Of the boiling springs — Capabilities — Solitude — Chapultepec — The Desagravios — Penitence at San Francisco — Discipline of the men — Discourse of the monk — Darkness and horrors — Salmagundi, 392
MEXICAN AIRS. 410