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LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH.

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan — Hernan Cortes — His last wishes — Padres Camilas — Old church — Procession — Representation of the taking of Christ — Curate's sermon under the trees — A religious drama — Good Friday — Portable pulpit — Heat — Booths — Religious procession — Simon the Cyrenian — Costumes — Curate's sermon — Second discourse — Sentence pronounced by Pontius Pilate — Descent from the cross — Procession of the Angels — Funeral hymn — The pesame to the Virgin — Sermon — "Sweet Kitty Clover" — Music in Mexico — Anecdote.

On Holy Thursday we went early in the morning to Coyohuacan, (now pronounced Cuyacan) which is almost a continuation of the village of San Angel; but there are more trees in it, and every house has its garden, or at least its inner court, filled with orange trees. Here, after the total destruction of the ancient Tenochtitlan, Cortes took up his residence for several months. Here he founded a convent of nuns, and in his testament he desired to be buried in this convent, "in whatever part of the world I may finish my days." The conqueror's last wishes in this respect were not held sacred. At the time of the conquest, Coyohuacan, together with Tacubaya, Tacuba, &c., stood upon the margin of the Lake of Tezcuco; most of the houses built within the water upon stakes, so that the canoes entered by a low door. This was undoubtedly the favorite retreat