Page:Notes and Queries - Series 12 - Volume 7.djvu/83

12 S. VII. JULY 24, 1920.] NOTES AND QUERIES. 63 anything comparable with this scene. The rocks rise almost perpendicularly from the water, only allowing space for paths and interspersed cottages. Their height seems greater than the summit of Boxhill, and vast masses start out from their sides, like the ruins of old castles. The Wye, clear, broad and calm, holds its course beneath, seeming to search for an issue by winding amid the hills, which at the end of every reach, appear to bar its passage. We went on till we saw the smoke of an iron foundry among the rocks. We then returned and proceeded to Monmouth, having staid too long to give us a clear view of the roman- tic country through which the road passed, and which gave further views of the river. 30 Saturday. Monmouth is a straggling town with a few good houses. The town-hall has, properly, an image of their great townsman Henry V. The county-gaol, as usual, the most conspicuous building. The situation of Mon- mouth is very fine ; surrounded with an amphi- theatre of wooded hills, and at the confluence of two rivers the Munnow and Wye. Walked through the meadows to their place of meeting. The Munnow is a small stream and had now a very slow current. It seems to add little to the Wye. Set out after breakfast for Hereford. The road first winds its way amusingly through wooded hills which seem scarcely to afford it an exit. The whole to Hereford is an enclosed country well cultivated, but tiresome on account of the perpetual ascents and descents, now rendered peculiarly fatiguing by a burning sun and clouds of dust. No baiting-place all the way 18 miles so that our horse had much ado to drag us through and was near stopping altogether. I fear we shall find some difficulty to bring him and ourselves home. Employed ourselves in the evening in a survey of the city of Hereford tolerably built with the usual mixture of old and new. The cathedral is nothing extraordinary. Tne repair of the west end, which fell down, does honour to Wyatfs taste from its congru^y with the rest. Many tombs of bishops of a very early period. A pleasant walk on the site of the old castle, having a terrace above the Wye, here a fine river. July, 1st Sunday. Set out for Leominster under great apprehensions about the hill of Uinmoor, halfway, which threatened perdition to our poor horse ; with time and caution however we got over it better than our expectation. A rich country all the way ; and about the hill, romantic, with an extensive prospect. Many hops grown and frequent orchards. The apple- trees in all this country make at present a melan- choly appearance from the blight they have undergone which has killed all the fruit and cankered the leaves. Probably they never look so handsome as timber-trees, except in blossoming time. Leominster affords nothing but a large old church worth looking at. In the afternoon drove on to Ludlow, an uneven road, pleasant but trying to the horse. Got to Ludlow time enough to take a most delightful walk, beginning with the castie hill, then crossing the river and ascending the high grounds on the opposite bank, whence the town, river and surrounding country are vewed to great advantage. We have scarcely seen any placo so romantically situated and presenting finer points of view. Returned to our inn well pleased, still reserving some sights for tomorrow. July 2, Monday. The town of Ludlow is- handsome in some parts, and has a fine old church. Its chief glory, however, is its ruined castle, once the seat of the presidents of the Welch marches, and an edifice of great size and grandeur. Its massy remains are still very strking and the great hall, in which Milton's ' Comus '" was first represented, cannot be viewed without strong emotions. It had lately been fitted up in < a rude manner for a public breakfast, but the sensation would have been more pleasing if nothing had been associated with it but Milton's- genius, and the sublime melancholy of departed greatness. A pretty good staircase still leads nearly to the top of one of the highest towers in- the building, but to get to the summit and fully enjoy the view would require younger heads and legs than we possess. Another walk by the river side finished our amusement at Ludlow, at which we obliged from circumstances to stay longer than we wished. Left it about 6 and saw rain threatened by a mist about the tops of the* Clee hills. It soon reached us and lasted just the whole of our drive to Tenbury the only shower we have yet had. It did not, however, prevent us from enjoying the fine country on our road,- giving frequent views of the Teme, and rich in hop gardens, meadows and corn fields. Beached the pleasant inn The Swan time enough for a^ walk before night. July 3 Tuesday. The rain prevented us from leaving our quarters at Tenbury till after eleven- - Proceeded for Worcester. The country extremely pleasant to the half way inn, called Hundred- house. A continued sxiccession of hop planta-^ tions and orchards, the river Teme winding, through rich meadows, and beyond, lofty eminences cloathed in wood. The country ascends to the inn, which is seated beneath high hills of Abberley. After dinner drove on to* Worcester, chiefly a descent, but could scarcely get our tired horse through. The entrance to the city is very good, crossing the Severn over a> handsome bridge, with the cathedral and other churches in view. July 4, Wednesday. Worcester is certainly one of our handsomest provincial capitals ; its streets straight, pretty wide and well paved, with very good modern buildings, and a general air of opulence and business. The cathedral looks crowded and irregular on the outside, but within is a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, perfectly well kept. The choir is terminated by a large window of modern stained glass, disposed in fancy patterns without attempting figures, and has a rich effect. Of the monuments, none is so striking as that of the good bishop Hough, by Boubillac, which would be admired among the best in Westminster Abbey. While we were surveying, in marched the Dean and a revd.- doctor in state to morning prayers, which we- staid to attend.. Nothing remarkable, but chanting the psalms, monotonous and wholly inarticulate. A good library is attached to the cathedral in a circular room, the chapter-house. Went next to view the china manufacture,. and admired the facility with which clay is made to obey the hand of the potter. The whole