Page:Notes and Queries - Series 12 - Volume 7.djvu/84

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'64 NOTES AND QUERIES. [i2svn. JraT 24, 1020. process easilv intelligible, and nothing dis-agree-

-ftble in it. The gold when laid on by the painter

is not recognizable till it has undergone the fire .an emblem ! Saw many fine things at the ware- house, and got over our longings tolerably cheap. 'The Severn at Worcester flows in a pretty wide .channel, which it does not half fill. The stream i rapid, low under the banks, and clear. Left Worcester in the afternoon and travelled on a pleasant road towards Tewksbury, the Malvern hills running parallel at the distance of a few miles. It is a very bold ridge with a strong picturesque outline, quite mountainous in appearance though of moderate height. The fineness of the day showed it admirably in rich purple and green hues. Stopt to tea at the village of Severn Stoke and took a pleasant walk in the meadows bordering the river. Got to Tewksbury in good time, and walked to the junction of the Avon with the Severn. The latter is much improved by the addition and flows on in a respectable stream. Tewksbury is a dull place, with noth ng remarkable but a large old cathedral- like church, rather gloomy than grand. July 5, Thursday. After breakfast set out for Cheltenham, an interesting road, with some large apple-orchards. Cheltenham has the appearance of an originally paltry country-town converted into a fashionable watering place. Many new inns, hotels and lodging houses, with shops, loungers, footmen, carriages and all the usual appendages. A pleasant walk to the spas, upper and lower, and pretty country around. The town is situated in a little plain or vale embosomed in hills, some bare, others cultivated and wooded. From Cheltenham the Oxford road first winds between beautiful acclivities, seeking a way out of the vale. A steep ascent at length leads" over the barrier hills, affording at its summit a fine view of the county we have left. Then begins an elevated open tract, showing its inferiority by stone walls enclosing the cultivated fields. Arrived by five in the afternoon at the little town of North Leach, which we should not have made our evening quarters, had not our horse manifested a determination to go no farther. We console ourselves, however, with the comfortable aspect of our inn. This place has a handsome old church, and near it is a county bridewell of the improved construction a miniature of Clerkenwell. July 6, Friday. A wet night and morning, which kept us at our inn till past nine, when we set out in a drizzly rain or wet mist. The road led over a high stone-walled country which looked dreary enough through the gloom, though the uninterrupted succession of culture, and wide prospects all round, might make it very tolerable in sunshine. With one halt, got to Witney to dinner. Regarding it as a considerable manu- facturing place, we were much scandalized at being followed at our entrance by a number of ragged children running and clamouring for half-pence. We learn that there is no magistrate in Witney, and that these young beggars belong to an adjacent parish some excuse, though a poor one. The town itself is long, straggling and in general mean with a few good houses. Its staple, the blanket manufacture, seems to be little liable to be injured by change of fashion as any that can be conceived. We were told that wool is brought to it from very remote parts of the kingdom ; but the cheaper working Yorkshire- men have injured them by their competition. Took an additional horse and proceeded after dinner for Oxford. The sky cleared and when we had dragged to the Summit of Ensham hill, afforded us a very extensive prospect. Faring- don hill was one of the conspicuous objects. Soon after, we saw where a noble city stood With towers and te*mples proudly eminent, and recognized all the principal edifices of Oxford, finely illuminated by the setting sun. The approach over the meadows watered by the Isis, on a causeway with many handsome bridges, was very striking. Soon after our arrival we took a walk to the gardens of St. John's College, which I regretted not having seen at my last visit. They are a beautiful specimen of the modern taste, and afford delightful shady walks and sunny lawns, decorated with rich verdure. What were the gardens of Epicurus compared to these ? There is no need to compare the philosophers of each. We strolled through some of the well- known streets, which were filled with arms and the toga, the former, of the Oxford volunteers returning from exercise. July 1, Saturday. Mr. Smith of New Coll. breakfasted with us, and afterwards accompanied us to see the chapel (formerly a cathedral) of hrist-church, and its hall, both noble old buildings ; the latter one of the finest rooms in England, decorated with portraits of all the emi- nent men educated at the college. Thence to the Bodleian library and picture-gallery, objects of greatest curiosity. The finest picture in the "atter a copy of Raphael's School of Athens. But )he portraits of a number of illustrious men of earning and others known to fame, were to me oiore interesting. Left Oxford at noon in a shower which soon turned to sober rain, and ?ave us such a wetting that we were glad to turn n at si petty inn at Wheatley. Whilst we were drying our cloaths, it cleared up and we proceeded to Tetsworth ; there drank ea, and ventured onwards with the formidable hill of Stokenchurch before us. It was a pro- digious labour for our tired horse to surmount it, and not a little for myself, who had near four miles to walk, driving and leading. Reached an inn of no great promise but highly welcome, just as it was beginning to grow dusky. July 8, Sunday. After breakfast proceeded to Wycombe, and retraced with great pleasure the elegant charms of the vale. Baited at High Wycombe and strolled into the churchyard, where the following epitaphs struck us as much superior to the common strain of those composi- tions : - On Eliza Ann Mathie who had been six months married. Springs and summers scarce nineteen Had this fair Eliza seen ; When Death, as envying that the earth Should possess so rare a birth, Snatched her from her husband's side, Almost too young to be a bride ! Those who her opening virtues saw May thence a sad conjecture draw