��Popular Science Monthly
��will finish the first unit of the structure.
The framework for the sides and ends is made of 2 by 3-in. stuff, which is ample for so small a building. The ends are made up first, and these should measure 6 by 6 ft. As will be noted, the front end frame con- sists of four uprights nailed to two 12-in. lengths at the bottom, and crossed at the top by the plate. The 4-ft. space between the inside studs forms the door space. For the rear end all that is required is a frame- work 6 by 6 ft. built as shown, with a single stud placed in the center. When both ends have been finished they can be set up on the floor and secured to the latter by lag screws. It will be seen that these screws ex- tend down through the floor and into the 2 by 4 pieces below, insuring rigidity to the structure all through.
To get out the framework for the sides, practically the same procedure is followed as was used for the ends. The top and bottom members are cut to 11 3^ ft., and five studs are placed as shown. The two sides are identical except for the window, which is placed on one side only. However, if desired, a window can also be placed on the other side. The size of the window is determined by the builder, but it will be found that one measuring about 16 by 40 in. is large enough. Set the two side frames between the ends and fasten with lag screws, as was done with the ends. At the top, the ends and sides are fastened together by means of angle irons, as illustra- ted in the detail drawing.
For the siding, ordinary boards could, of course, be used, but if a particularly neat looking job is desired, drop-siding makes an excellent material. This can be placed before the roof is put on. First, see that your framework is square and plumb, then beginning with the bottom board, nail the siding to the studs. Let the boards on the ends extend over those on the sides, but be careful not to nail any of the side boards to
���The side in which the window is placed. Two windows may be used but one is sufficient for a small building
��the ends. The proper method is shown in the upper left-hand corner of the floor plan. The siding is carried to the top of the plate on the sides, but at the ends it must be built up about i ft. higher. In doing this, nail on short pieces, marked A , of the 2 by 3-in. stuff, to the end plate. It is not neces- sary to cut these to the exact height as yet, but make them about i ft. long. Now carry the siding up to cover these pieces and proceed to trim it to the rounded shape shown. Procure a stick about 7 ft. long and drive a nail about i in. from one end and another 6 ft. 10 in. from this. Drive the first nail into the floor exactly in the
center of the doorway and let the other nail protrude slightly. Using the stick as a sort of beam compass, let the nail des- cribe part of a circle on the top. Drive an- other nail 5 ft. 10 in. from the center of the circle or first nail, and this will give the shape of the top of the door opening. If the siding at the top has been nailed only temporarily, it can be taken down and the curved line cut more easily. To get out the rafters B, tack a board at the top of one of the ends and draw a line using the same radius as was used at the top of the ends. Cut ten pieces for the rafters, which are notched to fit over the sides and fastened in the center with cleats, as shown. In fastening the cleats, use screws, so that when the building is taken down, the screws on only one side of the cleat need be removed. Set the five rafters as shown and fasten them by cleats to the studs, using screws as before. Nail the roof boards on, letting them extend over about 5 or 6 in. These should be so placed that two of them form a joint at the center, running the entire length. Cover the roof with one of the many roofing materials on the market and run a knife along the top central line, thus dividing the roof into two parts. Next cover the joint with a thin batten, held down by screws.