Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/114

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105
HALF FITTING GARMENT

THE STANDING COLLAR.

LESSON 48.

To begin to draft, measure first the neck of the pattern, which is about 14 inches, in full. Allow 1 inch for seams, making 15 inches. Now draw lines from A to B and A to C; from A to B is 3 inches, the width of the collar, and from A to C is 15 inches, the size of the collar; from C to D is also the width, 3 inches. Draw a line from D to B; take half of A and C, making F; from F draw a line to E; from E to G is 3/4 inch. From B to H and D to I is also 3/4 inch; from A to K and C to J is 1/2 inch. Now make all curves as shown on the diagram.

THE LAP OVER COLLAR.

LESSON 49.

This collar is out in 1/2 sizes only, when measuring the neck wanted use 1/2 of measurement, now we increase to draft, now draw a line from A, B to C, from A to B is 1 inch, from B to D and E is also 1 inch, this means the space in back, now measure from E, F 1/2 of the size of the neck, divide this space which makes I, now make a curved line with a round stick from D to F, from F to G is 1/2 of an inch, now curve the line from G to E, this completes the stand for this collar from from F to K is the same amount as the width of collar, now cross a line from K to J and divide which makes X, cross a line from F: up to L, now measure Now measure from B to C 3 inches width of collar, the same from I to H and F to E to D which is the back part and from F to J which is the front part of this collar, the width of collar from F to L, now makes the curves as shown at E at the back part of neck and shape up to C, curve from the point from J to L to F as shown on the diagram, this collar has all seams allowed.