LESSON 138.
No. 2.—SPECIAL MEASUREMENT DRAFT.
This draft shows another operation of the special measurements in a different build. The measurements are as follows:
| Front depth | 29 inches. |
| Arm blade | 23 inches. |
| Depth | 71 inches |
| Natural waist length | 13 inches. |
| Full length | 28 inches |
| Bust | 40 inches |
| Waist | 26 inches. |
| Chest | 38 inches. |
| Inside sleeve length | 18 inches. |
| Under arm length | 8½ inches |
| Front waist length | 23 inches. |
Now begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth measurement; from A to C is 15 inches natural waist length; from A to E is 28 inches full length of coat; from C to D is 6 inches hip length. Before crossing the breast line measure the under arm length up from the waist length C to F, then take one-half of F and B, making G, and cross a line from G for the breast line; also cross all other lines as usual. Make the body line and measure on the hip line from D to H 1 1/3 inches; from C to I is 2 inches; now cross a line from I up to A and down to H and 46. Begin to work the arm blade on the breast line from J to K, which is half of 23 arm blade, or n 1/8 inches; from K to M is 3 inches. Draw a line up from M to N; from N to P is one-sixth of size from P; cross a line up to O and measure one-sixth of size; then cross a line from M to O up to R and apply the front depth measurement, which is 29 inches on halves, or 14 1/2 inches from M against O. When marking the correct neck point at the front we first take off from R to O one-sixth of size for the back of neck, which is at A. Now cross a line from O to J to make the front shoulder and see the increase at the front neck point from O to O; then cross a parallel line from O to S and measure one-sixth of size: from S to TT is also one-sixth of size with a seam allowed. Make the width of back and divide from G to K. which makes 9; from 9 to 10 is 1 1/4 inches: cross a line from 10 to 12; from A to W is one-sixth of size; from A to W is 1 inch. Cross a line from Y to 12 out to 13 and square a line down from 13 to 10; this makes the width of shoulder and back. In order to get the front shoulder measure first, the back shoulder from V to 13 and apply the same amount from O to U. Measuring the bust from T to Y is half of bust measure and from V to Z is 3 inches for seam.
