Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/60

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THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER

HOW TO DRAFT A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE. LESSON 20.

This draft is started the same way as all other drafts with the exception that this draft changed regarding the butterfly sleeve at the side length. To begin we draw all lines as usual. A to B is 7 inches length depth. A to C is 15-1/2 inches natural waist length. Now cross lines A, B, C, from B to, G and C to E. Now connect line from G up towards U. Divide B to G makes H. From H to I is 1-1/4 th inches. Raise up a line from I to J. Now make from A to K 1/6 of the size, or 3 inches. From K to L is 1 inch always. From C to S is 2 inches.

Now connect line from A. Now place the square from L against J to meet I and which will make M. M is the proper width of shoulder at the back.

Now we go further to the front part, from G to F is 1/6th of the size or 3 inches. From F to Q raise a line up from Q to P is 1/6th of the size or 3 inches, the same as from P to O. Now connect a line from O to T which will give the foundation line for the front shoulder.

Now measure from L to M which the back shoulder and place the same from O to H for the front shoulder. Now measure from T to S 1/2 of bust which is 20 inches for 40 bust. From S to R is 3 inches for seams allowed. Now finish the front neck and make from P to W 1/6th of the size and from W to 1 divide 3/8ths for the seam; from 1 to Z is 3/4ths of an inch raised up. Now draw a line from Z against R down to 6. From V to X is 3 inches or 1/6th of the size.

Now begin to draw lines for the butterfly sleeve, divide between I and F which makes N; draw-a straight line down from N to 7 and make between N to G and N to 5 1/2 of an inch on both sides of 7. From 7 to 9 and from 7 to 4 is 2inches. Now draw a line from 5 to 4 and from G of 9. Now before we go any further with the butterfly sleeve, we shall decide about the deepness of armhole for the butterfly sleeve.