Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/21

This page has been proofread, but needs to be validated.
xvii
CONTENTS.


XXVI.
THE WONDERFUL PALACES OF MITLA.
Mitla. — A Mexican giant. — Astonished Mozo. — Cannibal Indians. — Tlacolula. The Zapotec dwelling of the dead. — Elaborate ornamentation. — Peculiar mosaics. — The Pillar of Death. — Blocks of porphyry. — Egyptian characters. — Idols of clay. — Grecques. — A sanguinary battle. — Montezuma's daughter. — The buried chamber. — St. John of the Drunkards. — The Alcalde, and his badge of office. — The giant tree of Tule. — A find of copper axes. — That fabled mine of gold. — Gorged with ruins. — The mines of Montezuma. — Don Santos Gomez. — Our frisky mule. — A Caballero's equipments. — The Mexican horse and its caparison. — The Sarape, Manga, and Poncho. — Saddle, bits, and bridle. — Sabre and pistols. — An aboriginal garment. — Off for the hills. — Indians of the Sierras. — Unsophisticated people. — The Cabildo, or King's House. — "Mexican Connection." — Six weeks in the saddle. — A bolt for the coast. — Smitten with fever. — Small-pox and vomito. — Unanswered telegrams. — A ravaged town. — On the Yucatan shore. — A "Norther." — Death on shipboard. — Havana 531
BOOK III.
THE BORDER STATES.
XXVII.
BY RAIL TO NORTHERN MEXICO.
Again en route for Mexico. — A change of scene. — Three thousand miles by rail. — Kaleidoscopic changes. — Through ticket for the Aztec Capital. — Across Texas in a hotel car. — San Antonio. — The Alamo. — Old Missions. — Town of Laredo. — An old Presidio. — Chaparral. — The stock craze. — Texan heroes. — On the Border. — The great Gould System of Railways, and its Mexican connections. — The National Railway. — Close competition in bridge-building. — A dusty place. — The gateway to the Land of Gold. — Corpus Christi. — The Oriental Road. — Señor Milmo and his Mésa. — Pat Mullins for short. — Palo Blanco. — Bustamente. — Monterey, the beautiful city. — An "Invalid's Paradise." — Delightful climate. Dirty inhabitants. — Taylor's battle-ground. — The new health resort. — Hot springs of Topo Chico. — La Mitra and La Silla. — Bathing by proxy. — Bull-ring and cock-pit. — Border Ruffians. — The North American invasion. — Opposition to the Saxon immigrant. — Bishop's Palace. — El Gringo. — Murders on the line. — Mexican justice. — Police. — Americans in the calaboose. — Saltillo. — Buena Vista. — Enchanted Valley. — San Luis Potosi. — A piece of gold. — A Conducta 553
XXVIII.
ALONG THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY.
Coal-fields of the Pecos and Rio Grande. — The "Sunset Route." — Southern Pacific. — Midnight connections. — Spofford Junction. — Eagle Pass. — Truly an open house. — "Not that kind of a hair-pin." — Over the Rio Grande again. — Piedras Negras. — The great Natural Portal. — Up a telegraph-pole. — A lively chase. — The International Railway. — Sabinas Valley. — State of Saltillo and its minerals. — Track-laying extraordinary. — A feeble protest. — A new industry. — Exciting times for engineers. — The calaboose in prospect. — "Fools caught in Mexico." — Murdered by Kickapoos. — In Texas again. — Devil's River. — Painted Caves. — Prairie-dogs and antelope. — El Paso. — A growing city. — Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fé Railroad. — A model newspaper. — Paso del Norte. — An old church. — Vineyards and gardens 577