Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/22

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CONTENTS.
XXIX.
CHIHUAHUA, THE GREAT FRONTIER STATE.
Over the Central Railway. — The Medanos. — Casas Grandes. — Ancient ruins. — Caravan journeys. — Montezuma. — Rumors of Apaches. — A desert region. — A vast Hacienda. — Chihuahua. — Approach to the city. — The great church. — American hotels. — Ruined convent. — Silver mines of Santa Eulalia. — Don Enrique's Hacienda. — Smelting companies. — The Alameda. — "Americans" born in Ireland. — Who commit the murders. — Silver mines of Batopilas. — Lumps of silver. — Scanty market supplies. — Hot Springs of Santa Rosalia. — Valley of Rio Florida. — Frontier of Durango. — Route of the Central southward. — Cerro Mercado. — The Iron Mountain. — Pottery of Guadalajara. — Over land by mule team. — Cathedral of Guadalajara. — The Chihuahua dog. — Protestant Mission 601
XXX.
SONORA AND THE APACHE COUNTRY.
Indians of the Haciendas. — A meeting with General Crook. — A moonlight ride to the Apache camp. — Armed captives. — Inveterate gamblers. — White men outwitted. — Adepts at poker and monte. — The price of blood. — Murdered men's money. — Our Indian policy. — The white boy captive. — Scouting in the Sierras. — Crook's desperate venture. — Map of the Apache country. — Did Crook capture the Indians? — or the Indians capture Crook? — Why they sent in their squaws and pappooses. — Another dip into Mexico — Arezuma, land of gold. — Sonora, land of surprises. — The Sonora Railroad. — Benson. — Nogales. — Tombstone. — Magdalena. — Hermosillo. — The Hill of Bells, Cerro de las Campanas. — Orange and citron groves. — The Dark-eyed Señorita. — Is she a myth? — Guaymas. — Gulf of California. — A natural Dutch oven. — Not quite so bad as painted. — A vast navigation scheme. — Sleeping in the streets. — Pearls and pearl fisheries. — The gold excitement of Lower California. — Down the Sea of Cortés. — Yaqui and Mayo Indians. — Natives of Shark Island. — Water-carriers and their donkeys. — Adios! 627

INDEX 659