The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 8

by Paul of Aleppo

Sect. VIII.

Constantinople.—Soleimanieh.

Then we passed on to see the vast and illustrious Mosque called the Soleimanieh, which is one of the wonders of the world, for the multitude of its columns, yellow, green and brown, and for its immense coloured pavement; for its loftiness; and for the soaring shoot of its minarets. In the court is a high cupola of marble, with pillars of the same material, from the roof of which water descends: for the said pillars are hollow, and the water issues from them in beautiful artifice. It is more delicious and sweeter than the water of Aleppo.

Next, we went to see the Mosque of Sultan Mahomet, which is above the house of the Patriarch, in the Fanar, on the top of a hill.

Afterwards, we descended from the Fanar, into a boat, and passed over to Khass Keui^[1], upon invitation. In this village are numerous houses of Jews and Christians. We visited the church which is dedicated to the Ἁγία Παρασϰενὴ^[2], or Holy Friday; and they took our Lord the Patriarch to pray over the tomb of the deceased Pavlaki, who was Kapi Kachia of Vasili Beg of Moldavia: for, being guilty of some treachery towards him, the Beg sent and had him put to death. They conducted us to his Hotel, or rather to his beautiful Palace, built over the water, upon huge piles of wood, after the practice of building the mansions of Constantinople. It contains an astonishing number of rooms and apartments, and a bath entirely of marble. Its gardens are a delight to the beholder, and are furnished with canals for irrigation, all of coloured cement. There is also a church upon the premises: all of which have a front commanding a view of the sea.

From this palace we went down into a boat belonging to it, and were taken to the further extremity of the sea, or port, of Galata, where we entered a large river of fresh water; and, ascending some distance, went to see a Manufactorv, or Kiar Khanah, of Gunpowder, similar to that which we had seen at Bor, and very surprising, with wheels turned by the water^[3]. This place is called Kiaghid Khanah.

Hence we came away, by land, and mounted up to the Ok Maidan; that is, the Field for the shooting of the Arrow; for in it is a pillar erected for this purpose. It is a pleasant green spot, commanding a view over Constantinople, which is opposite; and here the Christians celebrate the Festival of Easter, in mirth and gladness. They told us, on this occasion, that last year his Highness the Sultan Mahomet, God preserve him! came and erected his tent previously to the Feast, and was a spectator of their festivities; and that, in consequence of the great diversion they caused him, he made them a present of two purses, of a thousand Turkish piastres each.

Then we entered the Convent of the Silah Dar, or Armour-bearer, of the deceased Sultan Murad, which he built entirely new.

1. In the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Jews of Spain were expelled that country. Setting out, to the amount of 800,000 persons, they turned their faces to the East, and were kindly received in different parts of the Ottoman Empire. The principal division of them came to Constantinople; and were assigned this district, where they form a community of 50,000 persons. They are styled Mosāfir, or Visitor, by the Turks, as having sought an asylum among them; and are consequently treated with kindness and hospitality.
2. Ἁγία Παρασϰενὴ is, I believe, the name of a female Saint.
3. This, and the Ali Bey Sou, which unite at the bridge lower down, and fall into the head of the harbour, are the rivulets that flow near the city, and are in summer nearly or altogether dry.