A PREFACE
TO THE READER,
CONCERNING TRAVELLING.
HEN I first set pen to Paper to handle this subject, I had not the least thought of the Press; nor of erecting my self into an Author. I only discharged my memory hastily of some things which I had seen in Italy; and wrapt up that untimely Embrio in five sheets of paper, for the use of a noble person, who set me that task. Yet this Embrio likeing the person for whom it was conceived, obliged me to lick it over and over again, and bring it into better form. Second thoughts, and succeeding voyages into Italy, have finished it at last; and have made it what it is; A compleat Voyage, and an exact Itinerary through Italy.
And here I thought to have drawn bridle and rested, after so long a journey; when a learned friend having perused this my Description of Italy, desired much to see a Preface to it of my fashion, and Concerning Travelling. I could refuse nothing to such a friend; and have done it here willingly, both for my own, and my Countryes sake.
For my own sake; to pre-excuse some things in my book, which some perchance may dislike.
For some, I fear, will quarrel with my English; and justly, seeing three long voyages into Flanders, six into France, five into Italy, one into Germany, and Holland, hath made me, liue half of my life time in forrain Countryes, to the disturbance of my own language. Yet if I bring not home fine language, I bring home fine things: and I have seen great Ladyes, both in France, and England, buy fine things of Chimney-sweepers, and Pedlars, that spoke but course Lombard language, and gross Scotch.
Others perchance will find fault, that I write merrily sometimes: And why not? Seeing I write to young men, and for them; and mirth is never so lawful as in Travelling, where it shortens long miles, and sweetens bad usage; that is, makes a bad dinner go down, and a bad horse go on.
Others will say, That I fill my book with too much Latin: But these must be minded, that I am writing of the Latin Country; and that I am carving for Scholars, who can disgest solid bitts, having good stomacks.
Others will say, I jeere now and then: And would any man have me go through so many divers Countries, and praise all I see? Or in earnest, do not some things deserve to be jeered? when things cannot be cured but by jeering, jeering, saith Tertullian, is a duty; and I think the Cynick Philosophers struck as great a blow at Vice, as the Stoicks.
Others will say, I change stile often, and sometimes run smoothly, sometimes joltingly: True, I travelled not alwayes upon smooth ground, and paceing horses: Swisserland and Savoy, are much different from Campania, and Lombardy; and its one thing to describe a Pleasant Garden, an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathedral: and if in the one, and the other, we have several lookes; much more ought we to have several words in describing them.
Others will say, I affect a world of exotick words not yet naturalized in England: No, I affect them not; I cannot avoid them: For who can speak of Statues, but he must speak of Niches; or of Churches, Wrought Tombes, or inlayd Tables; but he must speak of Coupolas; of bassi rilievi; and of pietre commesse? If any man understand them not, its his fault, not mine.
Others will say, I hunt too much after Ceremonies, and Church antiquities. No, I only meet them. And as a man cannot speak of Hercules, but he must speak of clubbs, of combats, of Labours, and Victories: so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian, but I must speak of Relicks, Ceremonies, and Religion. Yet I believe, I give my Reader a full draught too of prophane antiquities, Mascarades, Shews, dressings, and pastimes.
Others, in fine will say, that I do but a thing done already; seeing two others have written of this subject in English. Well; if others have written upon this subject, why may not I? They did the best they could, I believe: but they drew not up the Ladder after them. The one writes much of Italy,M. Warcup and saies little: the other writes little and leaveth out much;M. Raymond. which I impute to the ones writing out of old Geographers, long after he had been there: and to the others short stay in Italy, when he was there. And if these ingenious gentlemen have painted out Italy in busto onely, and profile; why may not I paint her out at full face, and at her full length? If they, like ancient Statuaries, have represented Italy unto us like a naked statue; I have set her out in all her best Attire, and Jewels. And thus much for my own sake.
For my Countryes sake; To read to my country-men two profitable Lessons. The first, of the Profit of travelling. The second, Of Travelling with profit.
1. For the first, to wit the Profit of Travilling,The profit of travelling. its certain, that if this world be a great book, as S. Augustin calls it, none study this great Book so much as the Traveler. They that never stir from home, read onely one page of this Book; and like the dull follow in Pliny, who could never learn to count further then five, they dwell alwayes upon one lesson. They are like an acquaintance of mine, who had alwayes a book indeed lying open upon a Desk; but it was observed that it lay alwayes open at one and the same place, and by long custome, could lye open no where else. He then that will know much out of this great Book, the World, must read much in it: and as Ulisses is set forth by Homer as the wisest of all the Grecians, because he had travelled much, and had seen multorum hominum mores & Urbes, the Cittyes and Customes of many men: so his son Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man: and Homer gives the reason, because his mother Penelope, instead of sending him abroad to see forrain Countries, had alwayes kept him at home, and so made him a meere Onocephalus, and a homeling Mammacuth. So true is the saying of Seneca, that Imperitum est animal homo, & sine magna experientia rerum, si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine.
2 Travelling preserves my young nobleman from surfeiting of his parents, and weans him from the dangerous fondness of his Mother. It teacheth him wholesome hardship; to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance; to speak to men he never saw before; to travel in the morning before day, and in the evening after day; to endure any horse and weather, as well as any meat and drink. Whereas my country gentleman that never travelled, can scarce go to London without making his Will, at least without wetting his hand-kerchief. And what generous mother will not say to her Son with that antient? Senec.Malo tibi malè esse, quàm molliter: I had rather thou shouldst be sick, then soft. Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard, nor red, till taken out of the Sea, its native home. And I have read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonian nurces, till they were three years old; then they put them to their Uncles, till seven, or ten; then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion; and at last into Greece to study Philosophy.
3. Travelling takes my young nobleman four notches lower, in his self-conceit and pride. For, whereas the country Lord that never saw any body but his Fathers Tenants, and M. Parson, and never read any thing but John Stow, and Speed; thinks the Lands-end to be the Worlds-end; and that all solid greatness, next unto a great Pasty, consists in a great Fire, and a great estate. Whereas my travelling young Lord, who hath seen so many greater men, and Estates then his own, comes home far more modest and civil to his inferiours, and farr less puft up with the empty conceit of his own greatness. Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much, as to see in a Map (shewed him for the nonce by Socrates) that his house and lands, of which he was so proud, either appeared there not at all, or onely a little spot or dab: and Senec.nemo in pusillo magnus.
4. Travelling takes off, in some sort, that aboriginal curse, which was laid upon mankind even almost at the beginning of the World; I mean, the confusion of Tongues: which is such a curse indeed, that it makes men, who are of one kind, and made to be sociable, so strangely to fly one an other, that, as great S. Austin saith, A man had rather be with his dog, than with a man whose language he understands not. Nay, this diversity of Language, makes the wisest man passe for a Fool in a strange Country, and the best man, for an excommunicated person, whose conversation all men avoid. Now, traveling takes off this curse, and this moral excommunication; by making us learn many languages, and converse freely with people of other Countryes.
5. Travelling makes us acquainted with a world of our kindred we never saw before. For, seeing we are all, come from one man at first, and consequently all a kin to one another; its but a reasonable thing, that a man should once at least in his life time, make a journey into forrein Coutries, to see his Relations, and visit this kindred: having alwayes this saying of young Joseph in his mouth; quaero fratres meos.
6. Traveling enables a man much for his Countryes service. It makes the merchant rich, by shewing him what abounds, and wantes, in other countryes; that so he may know what to import, what to export. It makes the mechanick come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improving of his trade. It makes the field officer, a knowing Leader of an Army, by teaching him where an Army in forrain Countryes, can march securely, pass Rivers easily, incamp safely, avoid Ambuscadoes and narrow passages discreetly, and retreat orderly. It makes the Common Soldier play the Spy well, by making him speak the enemies Languague perfectly, that so mingling with them, he may find their designs, and cross their plots. In fine, it makes a Nobleman fit for the noblest Employment, that is, to be Ambassador abroad for his King in forain Countryes, and carry about with him his Kings person, which he represents, and his Kings word, which he engageth.
7. Travelling brings a man a world of particular profits. It contents the minde with the rare discourses we hear from learned men, as the Queen of Saba was ravished at the wisdom of Salomon. It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others. Hence the wiseman saith: Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet: bona enim & mala in hominibus tentabit. It makes a man think himself at home every where, and smile at unjust exile: It makes him wellcome home again to his Neighbours, sought after by his betters, and listened unto with admiration by his inferiours. It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction; and travel over the world again in his chair and bed, by discourse and thoughts. In fine, its an excellent Commentary upon histories; and no man understands Livy and Cæsar, Guicciardin and Monluc, like him, who hath made exactly the Grand Tour of France, and the Giro of Italy.
8. Travelling makes my young Nobleman return home again to his Country like a blessing Sun. For as the Sun, who hath been travelling about the world these five thousand and odd years, not onely enlightens those places which he visits; but also enricheth them with all sorts of Fruits, and mettals: so, the Nobleman by long traveling, having enlightened his understanding with fine notions, comes home like a glorious Sun; and doth not only shine bright in the firmament of his Country, the Parlament house; but also blesseth his inferiours with the powerful influences if his knowing spirit.
9. In fine, Examples (the best Philosophy) shew us, that the greatest Princes Europe hath seen, these many years, to wit, Charles the V. and the King of Sweden, Strada de
BelloBelgGustavus Adolphus, were both of them great Travelers; the first had been twice in England, as often in Africk, four times in France, six times is Spain, seven times in Italy, and nine in Germany: The second had travelled incognito (as M. Watts writes of him) into Holland, France, Italy, and Germany in his youth: which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareschal Breze, in a kind of threatning way, that he knew the way to Paris, as well as to Stockholme. Adde to this, that the wisest and greatest among the antient Philosophers, Plato, Pythagoras, Anaxagoras, Anacharsis, Apollonius, Architas, and Pittacus, which last left his Supream Command of Mytelen to travel) were all great travellers; and that St. Hierome (who being no Bishop, and consequently not obliged to residence) having travelled into France, Italy, Greece, and the Holy Land, purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of Learning, by his travels and Languages, that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors, the Church, in her Collect on his day, calls him only, Doctorem maximum, the greatest Doctor. And so much for the profit of Travelling.
The Travelling with profit.Now for as much as concernes the second Lesson, to wit, the Travelling with Profit, divers things are to be taken notice of; some by the Parents of those that travel; others by those themselves that travel: of all which I will speak briefly.
As for the Parents, their greatest care ought to be of providing there children (I speak to men of high condition) a good Governour, to travel with them, and have a care of their Persons, and breeding: that is, play the part of the Archangel Raphael to young Toby, and Lead them safe abroad, and bring them safe home: Ego sanum ducam & reducam filium tuum. Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choyce, and finde men Angels for Governours to their children, upon condition they should requite them, as young Tobie offered to requite the Archangel his Governour, whom he took to be a man. For the education of Children is a thing of that high concern to the Commonwealth, that in this, Parents should spare no cost whatsoever; but rather imitate the old Lacedemonians, who took more care of their youth, then of any thing els in their Common-wealth. In so much that when Antigonus asked of them fifty young youths for hostages, they answered him, that they had rather give him twice as many made men. Seing then young youths are the future hopes of families, and Commonwealths, their education ought not to be committed but to men of great parts and excellent breeding. For I have allwayes thought, that a young Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes; His Lacquees and footmen are like his Galoshoo's, which he leaves at the doors of those he visits: His Valets de Chambre, are like his night gown, which he never useth but in his Chamber; and leaves them there when he goes in visits: His Gentlemen attendants, are like his several rich sutes, which he wears not all at once, but now one, now an other, and sometimes none at all of them: His groome is like his riding cloak, and never appears near him but upon the road: But his Governour is like his shirt, which is allwayes next unto his skin and person; and therefore as young Noblemen are curious to have their shirts of the finest linnen: so should they have their Governours of the finest thread, and the best spun men that can be found. Hence the ancients as they were carefull in honouring the memory of those that had been Governours to great Heroes, as of Chiron, Governour of Hercules, Jason, Paris, Achilles, and other brave heroes; Miscus Governour of Ulysses; Eudorus of Patroclus; Dares of Hector; Epitides if Julus, Connidas of Theseus; all of them choyce men: So they were in choosing the rarest men for that great employment, to be their childrens Governours; that is in their Language, Custodes & comites juventutis Principum & magnatum. For not every honest and vertuous man (as some Parents think) is fit for this employment; Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Soliciter; but many things else, besides these, must concurre to make up a good Governour. I would have him then to be not onely a Vertuous man, but a Virtuoso too - not onely an honest man, but a man of honour too: not onely a gentleman born, but a gentile man also by breeding: a man not onely comely of person by nature; but graceful also by art in his garbes and behaviour: a good Scholar, but no mere scholar: a man that hath travelled much in forrain Countryes; but yet no fickle-headed man: a man of a stout spirit, but yet of a discreet tongue, and who knowes rather to wave quarrels prudently, then to maintain them stoutly: a man chearful in conversation, yet fearful to offend others: a man of that prudence, as to teach his Pupil rather to be wise then witty; and of that example of life, that his deeds may make his pupil believe his words: in fine, I would have him to be an Englishman, no stranger. I speak not this out of an envy to strangers, but out of a love to my own Country-men. For I have known divers English-gentlemen much wronged abroad by their Governours that were Strangers. Some I have known that led their pupil to Geneva, where they got some French language, but lost all their true English allegiance and respect to Monarchy; others I have known who, being married and having their settlements and interest lying at Saumur, kept young gentlemen there all the time they were abroad; and made their Parents in England believe, that all good breeding was in that poor Town, where their wives were breeding children. Others I have known who having their mistresses in the Country, perswaded their young pupils, men of great birth, that it was fine living in a Country house, that is fine carrying a gun upon their necks and walking a foot. Others have been observed to sell their pupils to Masters of exercises, and to have made them believe, that the worst Academies were the best, because they were the best to the cunning Governour, who had ten pound a man for every one he could draw thither: Others I have known who would have married their Pupils in France, without their Parents knowledge; and have sacrificed their great trust, to their sordid avarice. Others I have known who have locked their pupils in a chamber with a wanton woman, and taken the Key away with them. Nay, this I can say more, that of all those strangers that I have known Governours to young Nobleman of England (and I have known seven or eight.) I never knew one of them to be a Gentleman born; but for the most part, they were needy bold men, whose chief parts were, their own language and some Latin; and whose chief aime was to serve themselves, not their pupils.
But to return again to our subject, the Parent having found out such a Governour for his son, as we have described here above, he must resign over unto him his full Authority, and command his Son to obey him: otherwise let the Governour be the wisest, and the most compleat man in the world, if his pupil do not obey him, and follow his Counsel, all will go wrong. I have seen great disorders befall for want of this. Hence I have often thought of great Clemens Alexandrinus, who saith wisely, that our Saviour Christ is the onely true Pedagogue, or Governour, because he can not only give the best Instructions to young men, but also can give them grace to execute those instructions: whereas other Governours (Cassandra like) telling their Pupils many excellent truths, are not believed by them; nor can they force their inclinations to execute them, except the Parents commands come in to their assistance: and it is but reasonable, that as Governours are the Seconds of Parents, in the breeding of their children, so Parents should second Governours too, in making their children obey them. And so much for the Parents care.
For the Sons care, it must be this. First to take a view of England before he enter into forrain Countryes. This will enure him to travel, to see company, to observe towns and rarities, and sharpen his appetite for forrain curiosities. I would wish him withall in traveling over England, to fall in, as often as he can, with the Judges in their Circuits, not onely to see how his Country is governed in point of judicature; but also to see the gentry of several Countryes, who flock to great Townes in the Assize week. It would be also profitable to him, to cast to be at all the chief Horse-races, where he will easily see also the gentry of the several counties in a compendious view: Having thus seen his own Country in a Summers space, and having got his Majesties Licence to travel beyond the seas (in which Licence I could wish this clause were inserted, That all young gentlemen should at their return, present themselves to his Majesty, to give him an Account of their Travels and observations) I would have him depart England about the beginning of October.
2. At his going out of England, let him take his aime right; that is, let him aime altogether at his profit, and not at his Pleasures onely. I have known many English-men who for want of right aiming, have missed the white of breeding, whole heavens breadth. For some in traveling, aime at nothing but to get loose from their Parents, or School masters, and to have the fingering of a pretty allowance; and these men when they come into France, care for seeing no Court, but the Teniscourt: delight in seeing no Balls but Tennis-balls; and forsake any company, to toss whole dayes together with a tattered Marker in the Tripot.
Others desire to go into Italy, onely because they hear there are fine Courtisanes in Venice; and as the Queen of the Amazons, in Justin, went thirteen dayes journey out of her Country, onely to have a nights lodging with Alexander the Great, so these men travel a whole moneth together to Venice, for a nights lodging with an impudent woman. And thus by a false aiming at breeding abroad, they return with those diseases which hinder them from breeding at home.
Others travel abroad, as our ship-boyes do into the Indies: for whiles these boyes might bring home Jewels, Pearls, and many other things of valew, they bring home nothing but firecanes, Parots, and Monkies; so our young Travellers, whiles they might bring home many rich observations, for the governing themselves, and others, bring home nothing but Fire-canes, that is, a hotspur humor, that takes fire at every word, and talks of nothing but duels, seconds, and esclaircissements: or else parots, that is, come loaden home with ribans and feathers of all colours like parots, and with a few borrowed complements in their mouths, which make them take like parots: or else Monkeys, that is, some affected cringes, shrugs, and such like Apish behaviour.
3. At his embarking let him have a special care not to carry Himself abroad with Himself in traveling: Many men, saith Seneca, return home no better then they went out, because they take themselves along with themselves in travelling: and as a man in a feaver, findes himself no better then he was, by changing his bed; because he carryes his feavour with him wheresoever he lyes: so many young men return home tyred, and dirted, but not better and wiser; because they carryed abroad their bad customes and manners with them. I would then that my young Traveller should leave behinde him all willfulness, and stubborness; all tenderness, and seeking his ease too much; all effeminateness and delicateness; all boyish tricks with hands or mouth, and mocking of others; all delighting in being the best man in the company; all familiarity with servants, and mean men; all Taverns, and intemperancy of eating and drinking; having that saying of Seneca often in his mouth and mind; Major sum & ad Majora natus, quàm vt mancipium sim corporis mei: I am too great a man, and born to too great things, for to become the slave of my body. In fine I would have him imitate that young gentleman of whom S. Ambrose speaks; who returning home from forrain travels, and meeting with his old mistress, a wanton woman, seemed not to know her; whereat she wondering, told him that she was such an one; it may be so, said he, but I am no more I. A rare Apothegme; which I would wish my young Traveller to take for his motto, as well as this young man for his example.
4. Being thus got out of England, its a great question into what Country he should first go: to make his aboad. The common course is, to go first into France, and then into Italy, and so home by Germany, Holland, and Flanders, as I did once: but my opinion is, that its better for a young man to go first into Italy, and returning by Germany, Holland and Flanders, come into France, to give himself there the last hand in breeding. And my reason is this; For seeing the intention of travelling, is to make a man a wise man, not a finical man, its better to season his minde betimes with a staid wise breeding, then to fill it up to the brim at first, with a phantastical giddy breeding, which, having once gotten possession of the minde, bolts the door on the inside, locks out all staydness, and makes my young man delight in nothing but vanity, clothes, dancing, liveryes, balls, and such meer outsides. I would therefore have my young Noblemans Governour to carry him immediately into Italy at fifteen or sixteen, and there season his minde with the gravity, and wise Maximes of that Nation, which hath civilized the whole world, and taught Man Manhood. Having spent two, or three years in Italy in learning the Language, viewing the several Courts, studying their Maximes, imitating their Gentile Conversation, and following the sweet exercises of Musick, Painting, Architecture, and Mathematicks, he will at his return, know what true use to make of France. And having spent three years more there, in learning to Fence, Dance, Ride, Vault, Handle his pike, Musket, Colours &c. The Map, History, and Books of Policy; he will be ready to come home at twenty or one and twenty, a Man most compleat both in Body and Mind, and fit to fill the place of his Calling.
What to be learnt in
France and what not.5. I say, Make true use of France. For I would not have my young Traveller imitate all things he sees done in France, or other Foreign Countrys, I would have him learn of the French a handsome confidence; but not an impudent boldness. He must learn of them to come into a Room with a Bonne mine; but not to rush into a Mans Chamber, as they do, without so much as knocking at the Door. He must learn of them to dance well, to get a good grace in walking and saluting, as they do: but he must not dance as he walks, as many of them do. He must learn of the French, to become any clothes well; but he must not follow them in all their Phantastical and fanfaron clothings. He must learn to fence well, as they do; but I would have his sword stick faster in the scabbard than theirs do. In fine, I would have him open, airy, and gallant, as they are: but not affecting to be the Gallants of all Ladies, as they do.
What in Italy,
and what not.So in Italy, I would have him learn to make a fine house; but I would not have him learn of the Italians to keep a good house. He may learn of them to be sober, and wise: but I would not have him learn of them to be jealous and distrustful. I would have him learn of the Italians, to receive those that visit him, with great civility and respect; but I would not have him stand upon all their little forms and incommodious punctilio's. I would have him to be free of his Hat, as they are: but I would have the heart to go to the Hat, as well as the hand.
What in Germany,
and what not.In Germany I would have him learn to offer a man a cup of wine at his coming in; but I would not have him presse so much wine upon him, as he shall not be able to go out again, as they often do. I would have him learn of them to go freely to warre for the defence of his country: but I would not have him learn the custom of those vendible souls there, who carry their lives to market, and serve any Prince for money. I like well their shaking hands with you, when you first enter into their houses; but I like not their quarrelling with you for not pledging a health of a yard long, which would ruin yours. I like very much their singular modesty and chastity, which allows not bastards to be freemen of the most ordinary trades: but I like not their endless drinking in feasts, which is able to make them freemen of all vices.
What in Holland,
and what not.In Holland also I would have him learn to keep his house and hearth neat, but I would not have him adore his house, and stand in such awe of his hearth, as not to dare to make a fire in it, as they do. I would have him learn of them, a spare diet; but I would not have him drink so much, as would keep him both in good dyet and clothes, as they do. I would have him learn of them their great industry, and œconomy: but not their rude exacting upon Noblemen strangers in their Inns, for their Quality's sake onely, as they do. I would have him learn of them a singular love to his Countrey: but he must take heed of their clownish hatred of Nobility. Thus in all Countryes I would have my young Traveller do, as men do at a great Feast, where there is no fear of starving; that is, not eat greedily of all that's before him, but fall to the best Meats, and leave the worst for the Waiters.
6. That he may follow the foresaid Rule the better, and pick out of every Countrey what's the best in it, let his Governour lead him betimes into the best Company; for there the best Lessons are to be learned. Now by the word best, I do not mean the greatest men in birth, but in parts. For the world is not so happy, as that the greatest men are alwayes the best: but by the word best, I mean those that are the wisest, the best bred, the best principled, the best behaved, and the most cryed up by civil persons: for of such men much is to be learned: Their life is a perpetual Lecture; their words so many Oracles; their discourses so many wise Maximes: and though young men be not able to bring their dish with them, and clubb wit equally with these men, yet its a great matter to sit still in their company, and be a respectful catechumen to them. For if it be true which Quintillian sayth of those that love Cicero, Ciceronem amasse, profecisse est, its also most certain, that a man that loves good company, must be good himself in time.
7. And that he may be able to appear in good company without blushing, his Governour must get him, as soon as he can, to speak the Language of the place in handsome terms, and with a good accent. Next he must have a care that he be well adjusted and set out in apparel. For if anciently Jewels were called the Ushers of Ladies, because all doors flew open to them that presented themselves so richly adorned: so now a dayes good clothes may be called Mens Ushers, seeing they make way for them into all companies. He must have a care that he know his Congies perfectly, and have a free garbe or carriage; a Cavalier way of entering into a Roome; a grateful managing of his mouth and smiles; a chironomy, or decent acting with his hands, which may humor his words gravely and freely, yet not affectedly or mimically: in fine, a liberty or freedom in all his actions, which the French call liberté du corps; and it must appear to be à la negligence, and yet must be perfectly studied a-fore-hand. And though these things be but the Elements and Alphabet of breeding, yet without them he can never spell Gentleman rightly, though his inside be never so good. Indeed its long ago, that great men dwell no more in thatched houses.
8. But it is not enough to get him into Language and Garbes, if he get him not into Coach and Liveries, without which he can never appear at Court, or in good company, especially in Rome and Paris, the two chief Towns of long abode abroad. For let a man be of a Race as ancient as the Autocthenes of AthensPlutarch., who said they were as ancient as the Earth; and let him quarter his coat of Arms with the three Lyons of England, and the three Flower-de-lys of France, as I know a gentleman of Little Britany doth, (by the grant anciently of both those Kings) yet I dare boldly say this, that in Paris no colours blazon a mans nobility behind his Coach so much, as three Lacquies and a Page, in a handsome Livery. In other towns of France, where young gentlemen use to live, at first, till they get the language, a couple of sadle horses would be very useful, both to take the air on, as also to visit the gentry in the Countrey at their Summer Houses, where a Man will find great civilities and divertisements. Besides, riding out so in the fresh evenings of Summer, will not onely wean my young Gentleman from little company, and the crowd of his Countreymen, who will be then pressing upon him; but will also afford his Governour many fine solitary occasions of plying him alone with good counsels and instructions.
9. And seeing I have touched something before of his Servants and Lacquaies, I will adde this, that seeing it is none of the least blessings of a young Gentleman to have good Servants about him, it belongs to his Governour, not only to choose him good ones, but also to have power to turn away bad ones. Many men carry over with them English Servants, because they were their School-fellows, or their Tenants Sons; and these are little useful for a long time, and even then when a man hath most need of Servants. Besides, they are often too familiar with their Masters, their old Play-fellows; and as often troublesome to their Governours, by taking their young Masters part against them; and by ravelling out at night, as they get their Masters to Bed, all that the prudent Governour hath been working in the day time. Others carry over Frenchmen with them; but these often, by reason of their prerogative of Language, which their Masters want at first, get such an ascendant over them, that they come oftentimes to be bold and sawcy with them, Fer my part, I would have his Governour to take him new servants in every place he comes to stay; and those sightly, rather than too sprightly youths: Dull people are made to tugg at the Oar of obedience, saith Aristotle, whiles witty people are fitter to sit at the Helm of command.
10. But I am to blame to give advice to Governours, whom I suppose to be wiser men then my self; and therefore will end here, by wishing them a good journey, and safe return: To the effecting of both which, I found no better secret, than that in my last journey, which was to be mounted upon our own horses, (five of us together) and to spare for no cost: for by this means, we went at our own rates, and eat to our own minds: so true is the Italian Proverb, Picole giornate, e grandi spese, ti conducono sano al tuo paese.
In fine, I would have my young traveller make the same prayer of God, as Apollonius Thyanæus made to the Sun, at his going out to travel, that is, that he would be so favorable to him as to shew him all the Bravest and Best Men in the World.