1507425Face to Face with the Mexicans — Chapter XXFanny Chambers Gooch Iglehart

CHAPTER XX.

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES.

P
P
REVIOUS

to the advent of railways, and especially the completion of the Mexican Central, Mexico was a sealed book to the majority of Americans. To take up an abode there at that time, one was as securely bottled, corked and labeled for utter isolation from kindred and friends, as though banished to Kamtchatka or the South Sea Islands.

Without railways, telegraphs and their attendant blessings, Mexico was left to her own internal strife and commotion; the incentives to progress were wanting; while Texas, only across the river, possessing these advantages, has, in an incredibly short period, grown to be one of the foremost States in the Union, basking serenely in the sunlight of an unprecedented prosperity.

Considered geographically and topographically in the great federation of nations, the United States and Mexico should be on better terms, commercially and socially, than any other people. The one is situated mostly within the tropics—in the torrid zone; the other in the temperate; and together they produce all those commodities which are necessary to the comfort and convenience of their respective inhabitants. Their shores are girdled by the same vast water belt, and by nature they were intended to be, the full complement of each other. Mexico can produce enough coffee of every grade to supply the world, to say nothing of her sugar, India-rubber, indigo, dye-woods, vanilla, as well as numerous other articles of prime export. She has also a large and varied assortment of delicious fruits and an unlimited supply of the precious metals which regulate the commerce of nations.

But Mexico is not a manufacturing country, and, perhaps, will never be, while the United States has great need for a wider market for her manufactured goods, which Mexico can purchase of no other country to the same advantage. But as yet our trade is not one-tenth part of what it should be. Lamentable the fact, we have been the very last foreign power to place ourselves on a proper footing with our

THE OLD AND NEW CIVILIZATION.

near neighbors. A deep and subtle influence lies at the foundation. In the fullness of our well-earned greatness and self-esteem, we constitute ourselves teachers and judges of customs, business relations and social intercourse, under conditions far different from our own. We have made a high standard for ourselves, and if other people do not approximate it, they must be at fault.

But this failure to understand each other is due to several causes. In the first place, we have made no effort to understand them, and, again, unworthy representatives of our country do not hesitate to denounce, publicly upon the street, both the government and the people, and declare in boastful fashion the ability, if not the immediate intention, of the American eagle to swoop down upon them and "wipe 'em out in sixty days." They talk unreservedly and offensively about the prospects of a speedy annexation; of a protectorate, and the gigantic scheme of absorption, all of which cannot fail to engender much ill-feeling and animosity. It recalls afresh to the sensitive Mexican mind the "North American invasion"—the loss of valuable territory, and the general distress that pervaded the country.

Then again we have been full of unjust doubts as to the integrity of our neighbors. The consequence has been that the keen discrimination of our friends across the water has long since gathered to themselves the friendly relations as well as the profitable emoluments of trade which legitimately belong to us.

To compete successfully with the diplomatic methods of the English, French and Germans requires tact and skillful manipulation. Of the many Americans who gaze from afar with longing eyes on the prospect for business investments, it is safe to say that not one in five thousand has the slightest idea of the nature of the difficulties to be met and overcome in order to realize these prospects. In endeavoring to establish business relations, it must be borne in mind that it is not with one race he has to do, but with various shades, mixtures and types; with sentiments and prejudices, diverse and in common, all to be met, pandered to, and softened into harmony.

The average American has the impression that, should he locate in Mexico, and exercise his accustomed force and energy, much sooner will he reach the acme of his hopes and the realization of his golden dreams. Delusive thought! It does not require much time to undeceive him. He finds that no push whatever is expected or required; in fact, the less he has the better, for he must learn to bend to the slow—very slow—methods of the Mexican; to accept the dolce far niente of the country. Business customs and habits confront him which yield but slowly to modern ideas, while the necessary schooling in the mañana system, and the still more difficult lesson that. Toots-like, time is of "no consequence," must chafe his restless spirit, and dampen his impassioned ardor. It requires a discriminating eye and a suave, agreeable manner to obtain and hold the trade. So many things must be consulted and considered that in other countries have no relation whatever to business; but without which everything is tame and void of interest to the Mexican. It is necessary to study carefully the language, customs, habits and sentiments of the people; to familiarize one's self with the business methods, custom-house laws and the tariff. Usually in the haste to acquire a foothold, the smaller and more important details are lost sight of, but it is only by observing them that success will follow.

NATlONAL PALACE AT THE CAPITAL.

The prejudice of Mexicans against Americans is not so strong as the enemies of American interests would have residents of the United States believe. The various concessions, granted Americans both in the past and present, by the State and Federal Governments of Mexico, are proofs of this fact. But a wider and more extended communication between the two countries—more travel through Mexico by Americans and vice versa—would conduce to a better understanding. Let our people make an effort to know the “Mexicans in their Homes," and an open hospitality be tendered to them when they visit our country. No diplomacy could be so effective.

As an American woman I am justly proud of our institutions, of our prowess, strength and unity of purpose. We have indeed left behind us in our onward march of progress every other nation, and are pre-eminently the "heirs of all the ages." No country nor clime can compare with ours, and our representative men and women take rank and precedence wherever they come in contact with those of other countries. Perhaps it is the consciousness of our greatness that makes us less adaptable than others.

But our modern progressive institutions cannot thrust themselves unceremoniously and without caution upon a country whose civilization dates back more than two hundred years before our own. We must learn to "apply our hearts unto wisdom and pass into strange countries, for good things were created for the good from the beginning."

We must educate ourselves up to the point of believing that we can attribute the frailties and defects of any people as much to human nature as to national forces.

Whatever our differences of race, training and feeling, we can all do something for the happiness and well-being of those around us, and if other opportunities fail, there is always room for the bestowal of a helpful and sympathetic word.

But in no country do fame and friends come to us unless we have earned as well as desired them. Usually, like success, they come as the hard-bought recompense of persevering effort, and of patient waiting, and at last must rest with ourselves. We must carry into our common lives that grand and ennobling sentiment that unless we trust we will not be trusted.

In brief, if you go to Mexico, do not hope to effect radical changes, or constitute yourself judge and reformer, but rather be prepared, instead of teaching, to be taught. Go determined to see things in a just light, to make liberal allowances for whatever does not coincide with your own habits and training, and accommodate yourself with becoming grace to what you will there meet.

The much-desired first step toward the establishment of a mutual understanding and an international interest was taken at the New Orleans Exposition of 1884-5, which marked a new era in the history of Mexico, and throughout succeeding time will be turned to, as a beneficent agency, having brought before the public mind in the United States the various resources, the taste, skill and ingenuity, as well as the musical talent and proficiency of the Mexican people.

Following closely upon this was the Mexican Editorial Excursion to the United States, when the men who wield the instrument "mightier than the sword," were feasted and toasted everywhere. Being thus enabled to see the representative American on his own soil, either with the entourage of high position in political and social life, or at home with his household gods about him, they each and all returned with a better feeling toward our people.

One of these editors, Señor Alberto Bianchi, has published a book with illustrations, descriptive of the journeyings and impressions of the excursionists. Since their return they have interested themselves largely, in their different sections, in the cause of public education, and some have established normal schools.

But the future greatness of Mexico depends more upon the development of her internal resources than upon the introduction of foreign manufactures; more, too, upon her agricultural and domestic industries than on mines, mining, or the now widely scattered factories and mills. An untold wealth lies dormant in her bosom, an uncomputed richness in her veins. The seemingly insignificant agencies which by cultivation have given impetus and strength to our own internal greatness, are to-day in their infancy in our sister republic.

With a population of ten millions, Mexico cannot, strictly speaking, be called a consuming country, for the reason that the majority of her people are the humble poor who live solely on home product; who neither know nor ask anything beyond manta, tortilla, chili, and cigarette. It is quite manifest, however, that trade with the United States is yearly increasing. There is now a market for hardware of all kinds; agricultural implements, axes, wagons, carriages, harnesses, pianos and organs; also for prints, fine cottons, mill and mining tools and machinery, hosiery, flannels, woolens for ladies' and gentlemen's wear; glassware, lamps and gas fixtures, furniture, leather, hats, trunks and valises, fire-arms, scientific and surgical instruments, etc.

England and Germany have heretofore controlled the trade in hardware and agricultural implements, while France has maintained the supremacy in fine fabrics. But the superiority of American machinery and manufactured goods has been recognized, and it is now evident that in these lines we are driving other competitors to the wall.

The fact is generally conceded that temporary traveling agents, unless already acquainted with the language, tastes and habits of the people, can effect no good. A permanent residence is necessary, whereby they are enabled to study the all-important details. Great care should be exercised, in the selection of these agents or commission merchants, that they be of a genial, conciliatory disposition, steady habits, and gentlemanly address, never in a hurry, and give attention to dress and personal appearance.

The enterprising North American commercial traveler, always in a hurry, rushes in upon a quiet Mexican business man, opens his grip, exhibits his samples, and fails to effect a sale. The reason is obvious: he has disgusted the merchant by his too eager and energetic manner. How different with Europeans! They have caught the spirit and habit of the Mexican to a nicety. Not alone in the outside world of business, but in the home life also, are they more in harmony with him. They have learned what we have yet to learn, to make haste slowly. The German or French agent will negotiate through diplomacy, and seek by social courtesy first to enter the good graces of the Mexican merchant. When they come in contact, both are probably well aware what the ultimate aim and object is, but of trade or business not a word is spoken. The agent inquires after the health of the merchant and his family. They smoke, chat of travels, and other kindred topics. The pride of the Mexican is naturally gratified when he finds one man at least who knows how to take things slowly and pleasantly and without brusquerie. Perhaps half a dozen such interviews occur before a word is spoken about business, but the agent, beyond all doubt, has secured his victim.

The apostolic injunction to "let patience have her perfect work" must here be heeded in the business world no less than in the higher discipline of life.

Good faith in all transactions is a prime necessity; therefore it is essential that goods supplied should be according to samples. Two intelligent Mexican merchants with whom I became acquainted, informed me that their own experience had been unsatisfactory in buying from traveling agents. Goods furnished not only did not correspond with samples in color or texture, but even the prices were different. They also said that in such matters other foreign sellers were careful to send exactly what was ordered, even if it required much time and labor. European importers cater to the popular taste, even to the packing and shipping of goods, making a reduction in bulk and weight by shipping in bales instead of boxes, giving long credit on all bills, and by every available means endeavor to save trouble to their customers. Calculations are also made that the native railroads, in the shape of burros or carts, may readily transport the goods to interior cities. Americans generally overlook these details, and ship their goods in heavy wooden boxes, in every way objectionable.

Besides, the fastidious taste of the Mexican as to color and texture is lost sight of; they forget his whole nature is antagonistic to dull colors, coarse woof, and unseemly assortment. The French have caught the popular fancy in taste and delicacy. Light and airy fabrics with cunning devices, adding unique effects to the artistic arrangement, catch at once the Mexican eye.

Foreigners from the old country are content to make a very little headway at a time, and to utilize every facility they can command to the very best advantage. If they prosper in business, the young brothers and cousins at home are not forgotten, and as soon as circumstances will permit, they are brought out to act as clerks, and fill other places of confidence, proving invaluable aids to the heads of the establishment and strengthening their position.

An evidence of how other foreigners study to please the Mexicans, even to the details of dress, I observed in traveling with a young Englishman who had lived in the United States for six years. He was then about to join his brother, who had resided for some years in Mexico. Naturally this subject was under discussion between us. He frankly told me that his brother had written to him on no account to wear anything that looked American, and especially to refrain from wearing an American slouch hat, as the Mexicans detested that article heartily. Take warning, my countrymen! If you cannot wear a beaver, then a Derby—a stiff, half high, or the genuine wide-brimmed, silver-decked sombrero.

He certainly had obeyed the injunction, for he was a live representative of John Bull, from the apex of his prim-sitting hat, to the tip end of his square English foot. But I was glad to see him thus prepare himself for his future life associations, and candidly told him I should expect to hear of a marvelous success from his sojourn in Mexico.

After my arrival in the capital I found his brother's firm, that of B., S, R., C. & Co, had made for themselves an enviable name as architects, mining engineers and contractors. I had the satisfaction of seeing with my own eyes that the wise head which had planned his brother's advent into the country had practiced literally what he preached. As an equestrian, the native gorgeousness quite melted into insignificance by comparison; while in whatever society, foreign or native, he was a shining light and noted for the suavity of his manners.

The last I heard of the newly inducted young traveler bent on conquest, he was mounted on a litter going to Oaxaca, a seven days' journey, as a mining engineer.

Mexicans are not generally wholesale merchants. Those who have sufficient means to become such, prefer investing in haciendas, which are a sure source of profit and much less trouble. The smaller retail trade, however, is chiefly controlled by them, and in this field they are both able and successful. They are declared, on competent authority, to be strict, if somewhat slow, in meeting their obligations. But slowness, where everything is slow, need not necessarily be considered detrimental; and it may generally be assumed that if they do not pay, it is because they have not the money—a condition not surprising in the financial depression of the last few years.

Native retailers manage their business most skillfully. With a full estimate of the value of everything they desire to exchange, barter, or sell, they will ask the outside price, at the same time reading critically the character of their customer; if the price demanded will not secure him, most graciously and gracefully they will accept a lower.

To their powers of manipulation may be accredited the fact that in no part of the country have the Jews, to any extent, been able to obtain a foothold in mercantile life. The Mexican is even more suave, more entertaining, and more determined in his mode of selling than the most smooth-tongued representative of the Israelitish race. He can sustain himself comfortably on a smaller profit, and is content to do so, as long as he is assured of holding his customer. The native, however, has not a monopoly of the retail trade. Frequently he has associated with him either a Spaniard, Frenchman, or Italian, and again these are established with success, independently.

The capital is naturally the great emporium, the business of the country being concentrated there. The cities and towns along the Rio Grande may possibly conduct some traffic with the United States, and certainly an immense amount of smuggling is done; but the main supplies come from the capital.

Mexico affords a striking illustration of the extremes of wealth and poverty. A late estimate by one who is well informed gives her only about five hundred thousand people who are wealthy; while the remainder is divided between those with moderately comfortable incomes and the absolutely poor. But among the former there is a large professional and shop-keeping class, who always appear well dressed, and with more or less indications of competency, but whose incomes are meager and uncertain.

Those who have accumulated large fortunes are, after all, at a loss how to find suitable investments. A distinguished Mexican statesman has estimated that an uninvested capital of $50,000,000 exists in the City of Mexico to-day, a sum large enough to build and equip a railway to some extreme point of the republic.

This is the case in every large city. Immense sums of money are in the hands of the rich in absolute bulk, without any outlet or means of investment.

Stock companies and co-operative plans do not strike, as tangible, the popular fancy. The best thing generally is for this class to build houses and rent them, or lend their money at very high rates.

Banking privileges are not usually resorted to by either the trades people or the merchant princes. The "Bank of London, Mexico and South America" has been established for twenty-one years, yet even now the majority of people do not avail themselves of it. Merchants use it for exchange, and also as a means of safety for large sums in silver dollars, this last sometimes for a very short time, perhaps for one day and night, after which their mozos may be seen carrying it back in meal-bags. Perhaps a prejudice may attach to mere bits of paper as the representatives of big silver dollars, but checks are not used after our method, nor is banking resorted to except as a means of commercial convenience. For the mechanic or tradesman no facilities whatever exist in the way of savings banks for the deposit of their small earnings. Consequently more or less extravagance is indulged in, or the money is hidden away without profit to themselves or to the country.

Notwithstanding the rainy season, success in agriculture in Mexico depends almost solely on the facilities for irrigation. Every drop of water is skillfully utilized. Often, indeed, the entire body of water is turned from its legitimate course, and employed in irrigating a large and otherwise profitless region. If a river runs near to or through several haciendas, the proprietors unite in constructing a dam across

THE CITY OF DURANGO.

it, with large ditches to convey the water through the fields. They employ a man to take charge of its distribution, and during the farming season he must be on hand both day and night, to turn the water on and off, as may be necessary.

Lands rent for one-third and one-half of the crop. The proprietor furnishes no teams, and the yield of corn is from thirty-five to forty bushels per acre.

A hacienda, it must be understood, is a large plantation, and not a ranch for cattle, although one proprietor may own both. In this case, the farming is kept separate from the cattle raising. A church and store are inseparable adjuncts to the well-kept hacienda. The peons buy the necessaries of life from the store, which of course keeps them always in debt, thus securing their services. Unless the proprietor of some other hacienda pays the debt, they of course cannot leave.

There are two classes of peons, those who are in debt and those who are not. The former are by far the more numerous, and are called calpaneros or gañanes. The names and salaries of the principal employés are as follows:

Administrador, who is paid from $70 to $100 per month.
Mayordomo, """ 30 " 60"
Ayudante. """ 15 " 30 "
Sobre saliente, "" 8 " 25 "
Capitan, """ 8 " 20 "
Trojero, who has charge of the keys and keeps the
accounts of the hacienda; paid from $15 to $30 per
month; and a doctor, who is also paid by the
month.

The priest is paid for his services as they are rendered. The founder, wheel-wright, and carpenters are paid by the job.

The mayordomo and the capitan are allowed horses and certain perquisites from the hacienda.

These capitans are rare characters in and of themselves. Though in letters he may be the most ignorant, yet in that little narrow skull he can carry more accounts than the most expert book-keeper. He knows the antecedents of everybody and everything on that place. He is a peon just as they are, but in many ways he shows his power over them.

EL CAPITAN
EL CAPITAN

The accompanying illustration, taken from life at San Miguel Sesma, shows him in the robes and dignity of his office.

Every night the raya (an account of the days' doings) is gone through by the mayordomo and capitan, who come to the office of the hacienda to give an account to the administrador of what has been done during the day. The names of the peons are read, and the captain answers: "Cetonale" ("He has worked to-day "), or "Homo cleno " ("He has not"), as the case may be. The mayordomo has a box full of beans kept for the purpose. Each time the captain answers "Cetonale" or "Homo cleno," a bean is pushed aside. When the calling and answering are finished, the beans in the two piles thus formed are counted, and the result entered in the day-book. The captain retires and the mayordomo takes orders for the next day.

Everything is kept as systematically as in a banking business. The books of the hacienda are under government seal, and any one wishing to purchase the property may satisfy himself by looking at them.

Haciendas have their marketable small products, such as pulque, wood, milk, lumber, charcoal, beans, sheep, goats, and many others known as esquilmos. Hogs are also fattened, but they are little used save to make soap, which is excellent in any part of the country.

The impression prevails that the peon is in such a state of servitude that he can be easily compelled to adopt any method his employer may see fit to impose upon him; but the fallacy of this is too well known by all who have tried the experiment of farming.

The peon, like the rest of his race, has an instinctive dislike to

A MEXICAN PLOWMAN.

any innovations and he clings to his rude methods of agriculture, driving the new-fangled notions to the wall or stacking them in the fields, while he unceremoniously returns to the ancient forked stick. He hugs the rawhide harness thongs and straps, and the primitive fixtures of his forefathers, and will not yield them up without a determined resistance.

In the hope of compromising matters with these ultra-conservatives, a wide-awake Chicago firm has recently invented and patented a steel plow that is the exact reproduction of the forked stick and makes a furrow much deeper, whereby finer results are obtained.

I visited several haciendas, and on each more or less of our agricultural implements were used. Every agent with whom I conversed spoke hopefully that finally the products of our manufactories would prevail over any and every competition. But with the inherent prejudice of the peon, it is not a source of wonder that even a progressive hacendado hesitates to introduce any new form. On some plantations both the ancient and modern work side by side. But on many large estates one sees as yet only the usages of the Romans or ancient Europeans. It is easy for the mind to travel backward to the days when the Moors conquered Spain. They did not desire the advancement of the people, and, bent on conquest, introduced few improvements except those connected with their warlike enterprises.

In their turn the Spaniards have impressed the character of their civilization upon the Mexicans.
ADOBE HOUSES
ADOBE HOUSES

A further retrospect, and we find ourselves face to face with Bible scenes. The gleaners follow closely after the harvesters, as then; the story of Ruth may perhaps find many a parallel here.

Some Mexican writers have remonstrated against the introduction of labor-saving machinery, fearing it would militate against the interests of that large proportion of the population—the laboring class. But as the undeveloped resources are so immense, it will probably be long before interference in that direction will be felt, for the cry still goes up for more laborers for both mines and haciendas. One of the principal causes of this want may be attributed to the constant recurrence of feast-days, the observance of which occupies at least one-third of the time. It is anything but a pious spirit that induces the laborer to take advantage of these occasions, but rather his innate love of ease and dissipation. These days are to him more holidays than holy days. But it is astonishing how little these people can exist upon. In spite of their small wages being in this way so materially decreased, they manage to live, and not uncomfortably either, on a mere pittance; whole families, sometimes, spending but twelve or even six cents a day.

The following extract is from a late letter to the Boston Herald, by Mr. F. R. Guernsey, the regular correspondent of that paper. Mr. Guernsey has resided in Mexico for several years, and is a very close observer and accurate narrator. This is what he says on the subject of introducing foreign labor: "What Mexico needs is such a flood of immigration as is being poured on the shores of the Argentine Republic, that Mecca of the Italian farmer class. A proposition was recently made here for the introduction of Irish immigrants into the State of Oaxaca, where large tracts of land could be secured for them at very low rates, and coffee and tobacco culture introduced on a large scale. I have no doubt that a large Irish colony, started in Oaxaca under intelligent supervision and with due provision for getting their crops to market, could be built up into a prosperous community. The Irish, being mostly Catholics, would not provoke religious hostility among the natives, and their sympathetic and gay temperament would commend them to the nation at large. There is land enough, and to spare, in this favored country for all Ireland, and here the sons of Irishmen would become men of property and influence. There are many Irish names in Mexican history as there are also in Chilian annals. An 'O'Donaju' was famous here in old days, and along the west coast of South America the 'Lynches' and Cochranes' are noted names. The 'Morans' are a noted family here. Other names common here suggest Irish ancestry. This matter might well be studied by persons interested in settling Irish emigrants on land of their own, and so giving to their children an honorable career beyond the reach of grasping landlords. Several colonies in this country are prospering, especially that founded at Ensenada, Lower California, under the auspices of the International Company, a Connecticut corporation. The railway system of the country, as it increases, will make markets for regions now isolated, and thus render agriculture more and more remunerative." The difficulty of transportation remains a serious drawback to every enterprise to be carried on in the republic. This is so obvious as to render credible the statement that an over-crop is as detrimental as an insufficient one. When there is a large surplus, much waste must ensue for lack of the means of transportation. If the crop is a short one, the natives must go on foot and carry "corn from Egypt." In any case it is the masses of pobres who suffer, and the need for not only more railways, but also for wagons and roads, is a real one. If only the hoarded wealth of the country were thus applied, Mexico would not long be in the rear of other countries.

Under the present land tenure, the owners almost escape taxation, while the peon, or the man who takes the products to market, must pay enormous taxes, at the gates of the cities, where the tax gatherers are located. A barrel of flour may be taxed a dozen or twenty times before it reaches the market. Every State, city, and municipality through which it passes has its own laws of taxation. Every page of a merchant's ledger or cash-book must have a stamp. Every receipt must have one at the rate of one cent for every $20. Tickets of all sorts—even to the theater—contracts, bills, and a number of other things must have stamps. But the man who owns houses pays no taxes except when they are rented. This, it may be added, is the reason of the high rents.

The lack of water naturally limits and impedes manufacturing, and the scarcity of fuel places a dead incubus upon it. The government has nurtured and given all the aid and encouragement in its power to such enterprises, but it is difficult if not impossible to rise superior to such great natural obstacles. Wood commands from $15 to $18 per cord, which is, of itself, enough to interdict the use of steam. But there is a solution in the future to this question of fuel. There is no wider field for enterprising capitalists than the opening up of the vast coal deposits that exist in the various States. In Durango there are very fine deposits of hard coal. In other places many varieties are to be found; and the States of Oaxaca and Puebla abound in coal of a fine quality. Surely this will prove a great blessing to the country, and a powerful agency of progress. Petroleum also exists in great abundance, but is still undeveloped. Though Mexico is a land of light, still more light is needed.

The culture and manufacture of silk promise success in the future. Mulberry trees flourish in many localities, and the climate is so fine that silk-worms require no protection.

There are sections well adapted to the growth of cotton, but it is cultivated only to a limited extent; the principal part of that used being supplied from the United States.

The mining and working of the precious metals had been carried on for centuries before the discovery of the New World. We read that the conquerors were amazed and their cupidity excited by the richness and splendid workmanship displayed in the costly peace-offering of Montezuma. Bernal Diaz enumerates among them "thirty golden ducks exactly resembling the living bird; also, a round plate about the size of a wagon-wheel, representing the sun, the whole of finest gold, a most extraordinary work of art; and a round plate, even larger than the former, of massive silver, representing the moon, with rays and other figures on it, as well as a quantity of gold trinkets," all displaying the most beautiful and skillful workmanship.

AN AMERICAN MINER.

Mining investments for Americans have generally proved a sad experience. But still they venture, working and waiting, hoping against hope. They give up comfortable homes to labor and toil as never before, deprived of every comfort, and at last are forced to leave the scenes of their unfruitful labors ruined in fortune and hopes, and with energies broken and crushed. Some of the most utterly miserable-looking men to be seen are these unfortunate American miners. A few have been successful, but they make the exceptions to the rule. Mining laws, however, are said to be excellent, and are quite as favorable to the foreign capitalist as to the native.

In the production of fruits alone Mexico has advantages over other countries. In many places by stretching out the hands one may

BASKET OF FRUIT.

gather both temperate and tropical varieties. While many have been imported, a large proportion are indigenous and daily tickled the palate of Montezuma. But peaches, apples and other temperate fruits are in a neglected condition, and consequently lack flavor. For the rest, nature is sufficient for her own free gifts.

The infinite variety and constant succession of fruits, all the year round, offer an attraction to growers as well as to those engaged in canning and preserving. Besides those familiar to home growth, as peaches, pears, lemons, and oranges, or known to us through commerce, as the banana and pineapple, new, strange and delicious fruits meet the eye and invite the taste. At first Americans generally have a distaste to the native fruits of Mexico, but after a time relish them very much.

The accompanying illustration shows a few of the most peculiar of these fruits. The long, white one on the left is a lemon from Jalapa; it is nearly ten inches in length and about five inches in its largest diameter. The one in the center of dish is the chirimolla (custard-apple), delicious, and bears a stronger resemblance to a delicately flavored custard than to anything else. Another species of this fruit is the anona, which is seen on the right; it is brown, while the former is green. Both have the shape and appearance of the pineapple, and flourish in the latitude of the orange and lemon. Both have black seeds. The anona is so soft it is always brought to market enveloped in palm-leaves. The small fruit on the right, in front, is a mango, and the small one to the left is the aguacatl, or vegetable butter, commonly called aguacate, grows in almost all parts of Mexico. Some are green, others black; some as large as a man's fist, others the size of a marble. If the skin is removed and the substance spread on bread with a little salt, it is a good substitute for butter; it also makes a delicious salad. By putting the seed in a bottle, as with hyacinth bulbs, this fruit may be grown in all warm latitudes. Then there are the various kinds of zapotes; chico (small), brown skin; prieto (black pulp, green skin);

MANGO AND SEED.

amarillo (yellow pulp and skin), long, very large seed and delicious; blanca (white), green skin, white pulp, and the zapote of Santo Domingo. All have a different skin, flesh and flavor, but the yellow and white are the most delicious. Along the Gulf coast there are miles of forest of the chico zapote. It is a very large and valuable tree, having dark, rich foliage, and for timber growth is almost unequaled. Pieces of the wood have been taken out of the ruins of constructions that were already ruins when the Spaniards came, and they were still as solid as though in use only a year. The mango is a large and lovely tree and is indigenous; the fruit is a reddish yellow, kidney-shaped, with fibrous flesh, and a large stone much the same shape. The flavor is at first objectionable to strangers, because of the strong turpentine taste, but this is finally overlooked. As it hangs on the trees in the hot lands nothing can be more beautiful than these great bright bunches of twenty-five or thirty hanging from the boughs.

YELLOW, BLACK, AND WHITE ZAPOTES.

The mamey is another attractive looking fruit of oblong shape, meat of salmon-red color, but a little education is also necessary for its enjoyment. When taken from the tree the fruit is warm throughout. The xicama, another curious fruit, looks exactly like a turnip, but with none of the flavor of the latter. The granadita is delicious, and bears a striking resemblance in appearance and flavor to our "May-apple." There are about forty varieties of oranges,

MAMEY AND SEED.

besides several of lemons and limes. Then there are capulins (wild cherries), the juice of which is used in tamales; the tejocote, ciruelas, cidras, all small fruits, besides cicapnatl (peanut), as also many other delicious nuts; the calabaza (pumpkin), one of the chief articles of food for the poor; the caña (sugar-cane); the cacao, from which chocolate is made; the guayaba (guava); gtanada (pomegranate); several kinds of figs, pears, and grapes; also, charvicannos (apricots), mora (mulberries), zarzamora (blackberries), grosella (raspberry). The aceituna (olive) thrives anywhere on the table-lands. Then there are the sandia (watermelon), the camote (sweet potato), the endless and delightful varieties of the tuna (prickly pear), and the maguey (agave Americana), known to us as the century-plant, which furnishes everything from a needle and thread to a house-top, as well as a variety of food and drink. Of the latter, several varieties are made, chief among which is pulque, the national beverage. The manufacture of this liquor is as peculiar as it is interesting. Just before flowering time (which occurs much oftener than once in a hundred years) the heart of the plant is extracted and a sap rises to fill the cavity. The tlachiquero, whose business it is to collect this sap two or three times a day, places one end of a gourd syphon in the cavity and the other end to his lips, and, by suction, draws the juice up into the body of the gourd. It is then emptied into a sheep skin which he carries upon his back, and from this put into a vat, also of sheep skin, which, like the other, has the wool turned inward. The odor imparted to the liquid by these skins, as may be imagined, is anything but agreeable. On bringing it to the lips for a draught, the first impulse is to seize the nose, without which precautionary measure it is doubtful if the induction into this beverage would ever be made. It is much pleasanter to the palate, however, than to the olfactories, and its effects upon the system are generally beneficial. It possesses medicinal properties and is considered a specific for Bright's disease. The cultivation of the maguey is quite a source of income, as a single plant yields about one gallon of sap a day, and rarely more than one hundred and twenty-five quarts in all, after which it dies. The other liquors besides pulque which this plant produces are tequila and mescal. The former, named after the district in which it is principally manufactured, possesses an agreeable flavor, somewhat resembling Scotch whisky. Mescal is made from a liquor obtained by pressing the leaves of the maguey in a mill. Both mescal and tequila are transparent, while pulque has very much the appearance of the milk of the cocoa-nut.

THE TLACHIQUERO.

Tanneries are to be found at many places, but the leather must be of very inferior quality if one may judge by the rapidity with which shoes break and wear out. There is no greater inconvenience to Americans than the style and quality of shoes. Generally it is not possible for them to wear those made on Mexican lasts. I have seen in the windows of shoe stores, "American shoes made here," but the samples shown were far inferior to our home productions, and did not even resemble them. But for the artistic repairing of old boots and shoes the Mexican cobbler can certainly claim precedence. Shoes so old and dilapidated that even mothers could not use them instead of a switch on refractory children, or that would not be available for throwing after departing bridal parties, he will repair and return as good as new, for fifty cents. He sits on his stool on the sidewalk, himself unshod, verifying the ancient proverb, perhaps waiting for the mañana on which to begin his avocation. More paper factories are needed, and no country offers greater inducements, as the maguey is ever at hand to furnish pulp for the enterprise. France and Belgium have heretofore supplied the market, with a moderate amount from Germany and England. If Americans do not go there to manufacture paper, they should certainly be able to compete with all others in supplying the market with a superior article.

Considerable attention is now paid to the importation and breeding of fine stock of all kinds, and Mexico offers unsurpassed facilities for this purpose, by reason of the equable climate and extensive pasturage. For, while cattle men annually lose thousands in their chosen sites in the United States, in Mexico it is perennial springtime for man and beast.

The meats are excellent in flavor and quality, the mutton being especially delicious. But a difficulty lies, generally, in the butchers, who cut and slash it in so many directions that it is difficult to tell what part of the animal you are eating.

A STREET SHOEMAKER.

Butter everywhere is a very scarce and inferior commodity. Housewives know nothing of making and caring for this article, which to Americans is a prime necessity. The most primitive means are employed in its manufacture. In some places the milk is put into a sheep or goat skin, then fastened on a mule or burro, usually the latter, and trotted at a rapid rate. Inferior in quality as it is, I have never seen a pound sell for less than from four to six reals. The natives make a cheese from goat's milk that is quite good when one becomes accustomed to it; but no attention is given to cheesemaking, as we know it, although the facilities are at hand, in the labor, the cattle and feeding, as well as in the tastes of the people, who use it largely in their cuisine. At the capital a pound of American cheese costs 62½ cents (five reals). The finest butter and cheese in the world could be produced on the beautiful and abundant alfalfa. Our people should look into these openings for enterprise, particularly as the Mexicans themselves would be constant patrons.

The refining of salt is another much needed industry, for which ample material exists in immense deposits that are in the same condition to-day as when the conquerors came. A five-cent sack of American table salt costs three reals, while what is generally used is in the crudest state possible, requiring to be washed, dried in the sun, and then ground on the metate before it is ready for use.

Bacon and ham are both imported, the United States now furnishing the greater part. The price is never less than five to six reals a pound, even at the capital.

Finer hogs can be produced in no country, and with mountains forever snow-covered, and railways offering inducements to shippers, pork packeries and meat-canning establishments could easily be established and made a paying investment. No improvement can be made on the lard, which is beautifully white and sweet; but the supply in no wise reaches the demand, as shown by the price, which I have never known to be less than from twenty-five to thirty-seven cents, or three reals a pound.

Wheat is one of the best products of the soil, and flouring-mills convert it into excellent flour, but either the mills are not numerous enough or the supply of wheat is deficient, as prices are exorbitant—the cheapest I have seen costing three dollars and a half for fifty pounds.

Fond as the Mexicans are of dainties and delicacies, the cracker and wafer, so indispensable in our dietary, are not made in the country, with the exception of one or two factories at the capital from which they are supplied at three reals a pound. Factories of this kind would develop the general taste and doubtless also prove profitable. By all means let some enterprising spirits establish goose ranches. Strangers are particularly impressed with the unyielding pillows and beds, encountered everywhere in hotels; and with few exceptions they are little different in private houses.

Both climate and soil are favorable to the production of broom-corn, and, as the native manufacturers are less skilled in broom-making than in almost anything else, I surely think this manufacture would be a desirable enterprise. American brooms, when obtainable, cost one dollar apiece.

I could go on enumerating the smaller industries which would find a ready demand, and require but little capital. But it is unnecessary. It has only been my aim to show that everything stands waiting for the ready hand and determined will of some who may desire to begin life in that old country on a moderate scale and grow to affluence.

There is no opening whatever for either American matches or match-makers; for the matches of the Mexican match-maker are matchless; a rule that holds good in more ways than one, and may even apply to scenes from the balcony.

I have found an elysium for the Smiths, Browns and Joneses. By merely crossing the Rio Grande, they will find themselves answering to extremely high-flown names, without legal or legislative intervention, or arousing the suspicion that they left their country for their country's good. Plain William Brown becomes Guillermo Moreno, James Smith flows off euphoniously into Santiago Esmith, while John Jones murmurs in the mellifluous Castilian as Don Juan Jo-nis (Huan Honis).

The very serious question of American families taking up their residence in Mexico is one that demands especial care. We of the United States have such a profusion of comforts, even among the plainer classes, that it is not to be expected of an American woman to settle herself contentedly in her Mexican home with the scanty allowance of furniture and otherwise primitive household arrangements she there encounters. As before stated, hotel life is not proper or customary for families, and there are no boarding-houses; the whole matter must at once resolve itself into the setting up of one's own little household kingdom. Furniture is not only extremely scarce but high-priced, and furnish the house the best one can, with what is to be had, and with a limitless amount of pottery cooking utensils, still there will remain an aching void in the list of supplied necessities. If household goods are brought from home, taxes and custom-house duties will fully quadruple their original cost. No American woman thinks at first that she can exist without a cooking-stove, but, to carry one along that has cost twenty dollars at home, it will, when turned over to her, have cost six times its original value. When in its place and man or burro have trotted their score or two of miles with a double handful of wood for cooking purposes, another difficulty is added when the cook tells her: "It will give me disease of the liver," or, "No es costumbre." It is then her disgust reaches a supreme height. If she fails to take pillows and bedding along, it is possible that she may "lie on the floor and cover with the door," or rest on such substitutes for beds as would break the bones of a Samson or Goliath.

This may seem paradoxical, having described the elegant furnishings of some Mexican mansions; but stores exclusively for furniture are not general, with some exceptions at the capital and in the larger interior cities.

The Mexicans have been always accustomed to order their household furnishings direct from Europe or the United States, and strangers generally on going must risk the chances of buying what they can second-hand from some one moving away, or have a carpenter manufacture some, on his own plans and specifications. But do not calculate on the time for it to come into your possession. Meanwhile a cot and a few Mexican blankets are blessings in exchange for the soft side of an earthen floor.

You may be able to rent rooms in families, and in gems of precious pottery prepare your meals after your own fashion. Sometimes you will be able to procure comfortably furnished rooms, and have meals sent from a fonda, but you will very rarely find a Mexican family who will furnish them. You may have a room in their house, and be freely invited to a place at their board, but to receive money for anything but the rent would be an infringement upon their established usages and ideas of hospitality.

While the vegetables, meats, and fruits are not so high as in the United States, and are generally better, other necessaries make expenses mount up amazingly.

American men accommodate themselves quite readily in Mexico to the inconveniences of the home life—natural enough, when they have none of the worry—but, with a few exceptions, I have never seen an American woman in the country who was not continually pining to return home.

So far, no educational advantages exist for American children; and this of itself is a source of great perplexity. But the children themselves are extremely adaptable to everything in the country, learning the language with wonderful rapidity, and in their childish communications adopting the customs of Mexican children. Like these, they are universally petted and adored by all classes, from the servants to the highest society. I have seen one American child engage the attention and interest of every Mexican in a railway car. An American gentleman and his wife who had resided a number of years in Mexico, and had had four children born to them in that country, were returning to Texas. These little ones had completely identified themselves with the country of their nativity and repudiated that of their fathers. Soon after crossing the Rio Grande, they stopped at a ranch house, and seeing some other American children bare-footed, they ran excitedly to their mother, exclaiming with mingled scorn and pity, "Mira, mama! las gringitas sin zapatitas! ("Look, mamma! those little gringos without shoes!")

Anglo-Mexican children will never admit that they have American blood in them.

Generally there is but little social interchange between the women of the two countries; but when it takes place, warm friendships are apt to ensue. I wish my countrywomen residing there would make more effort in this direction, that the people of both countries might know and understand each other better; for men, left to themselves, with all their diplomacy, lack the finer tact and instinct of women in uniting and binding together widely separated elements.

Those who intend to become residents will read with interest the late laws relating to foreigners.

There is a law of naturalization lately published that is important to Americans. Subjoined is a copy of the official notice:

"Americans are hereby notified that, in conformity with Article I., Chapter V., of the Law on Foreigners, of June, 1886, foreigners who may have acquired real estate, or have had children born to them within the republic, will be considered by the Mexican Government as Mexican citizens, unless they officially declare their intention to retain their own nationality, and to that effect obtain from the Department for Foreign Affairs a certificate of nationality, on or before December 4, 1886.

"Said certificates may be obtained for Americans through the Legation or the Consulate-General of the United States in this city.

"Applications for the same must be accompanied by one dollar for the necessary revenue stamps, also by a personal description of the applicant

"Legation of the United States, Mexico, August 20, 1886."

Still another law requires that all foreigners should be matriculated at the Department for Foreign Affairs, that their nationality may be declared and recognized. Foreigners who wish to have a hearing before the courts of the country should not fail to comply with this law, as business interests are not secure without it.

The climate is all that is claimed for it—even more: and it is recommended as a safe retreat for those afflicted with pulmonary or throat troubles. But, even here, a disadvantage arises. If they improve and all goes well, it is not safe to return to their homes and this is the thing above all others they most wish to do. If they remain, the lungs will harden and heal over, causing little or no pain or inconvenience, and life be prolonged to a good old age. But the artificial or real strength imparted by the delightful climate lures them into a feeling of security. But a return home makes the decline more rapid than the improvement has been. However, if in the earlier stages of the disease, they will make up their minds to live in Mexico, taking all things as they find them, I believe many permanent cures will be effected. I have seen some fine specimens of robust strength and health which were only gained by exercising a firm will and determination—a trying and almost impossible achievement to the invalid. While the strong and healthy American will readily accustom himself to the food, the sick naturally longs for home cooking. Occasionally a friendly countryman will have a few comforts, and such fare as is suited to the palate of the invalid, which he is generally pleased to share.

Mexican physicians, as a rule, are highly educated and accomplished men; having not only excellent advantages in the Medical School at the capital, but a large proportion being graduates of celebrated European colleges.

Consumption is not by any means confined to the stranger. It undoubtedly originates among the natives, and usually with fatal results. Another disease in this fine climate, and as much to be dreaded, is catarrh; and a simple cold soon takes this form. No class is exempt from it, and perhaps from this the custom arose of wearing the blanket, shawl, or handkerchief over the nose and mouth. That their fine air, so celebrated and lauded by visitors, should be blamed for every malady that flesh is heir to, seems a contradiction. But in this as in everything else

"ON ACCOUNT OF THE AIR."

there is a special fitness, for strangers soon find themselves following the same custom. Ask at any time a man or woman of the poorer class why they draw the blanket over the mouth, and you will at once be answered with, "Por el aire" ("On account of the air").

Police regulations are admirable. The men are uniformed, and stationed in the middle of the streets where they cross at right angles; and regardless of wind or weather, each one remains at his post eight hours at a time, blowing his shrill whistle every quarter of an hour, in answer to the call of his co-guardian of the peace. The quiet and order that prevail in all towns and cities attest their efficiency.

The body known as the Rurales constitute in Mexico to-day the most competent preservers of the public peace existing within her borders. They were once lawless and abandoned men, who led lives of wild adventure, many of them being bandits, fearing nothing.

POLICEMAN ON DUTY.

When General Porfirio Diaz became President, he felt the necessity of providing the rural districts with an efficient mounted police force. The utmost forethought could not have predicted such grand results. Being as they are familiar with every mountain pass and lonely defile, fearless riders, and possessed of extraordinary strength and undaunted courage, they have proved their prowess and valor from first to last. It gives one a feeling of security and satisfaction to see a company of these sturdy horsemen entering a city or town, after a toilsome journey in the wild mountain fastnesses. They wear a gay and picturesque uniform of buckskin, the pantaloons decorated on the outside seams with silver buttons, coat and vest of the same material,

A COMPANY OF RURALES.

a gorgeous red sash, and a red cravat or silk handkerchief around the neck, and sombrero with silver cord and tassels. Behind the gayly-equipped saddle a red blanket is folded and snugly secured, adding an extra charm of color to the invincibles. They come and go as if in haste, the rattling of their accouterments always attracting the attention of strangers.

Land and sea can alike testify to their courage. On January 18th, 1886, the American whaler Ranger ran ashore at Ensenada on the Lower California coast. The crew were swept into the sea, and would inevitably have perished but for the courage and humanity of a party of Rurales. One poor sailor was swept out of their reach, though they made superhuman efforts to save him.

The President of the United States, through Mr. Bayard, and in appreciation of their valor, forwarded to the Rurales memorials, consisting of a gold watch and chain for the chief, with this inscription:

"Presented by

The President of the United States

to

Pedro Miramontes,

Chief of the Rural Guard, Ensenado, Mexico,
For humane and praiseworthy services in behalf of a boat's crew of the U. S. steamer
'Ranger,' January18, 1886."

Silver medals were given to the others of the rescuing party.

Upon the subject of American interests in Mexico, I am glad to introduce the opinion of Judge J. F. Crosby, of Texas, who was at the Mexican capital during my stay there, and in an interview with a representative of the Two Republics, thus freely expressed his views with regard to the prospects and safety of American enterprise in Mexico:

"I do not only believe but know from actual observation that American enterprise has a most promising future in Mexico. The people of Mexico are not nearly as prejudiced against Americans as superficial observers would have the people of the United States believe. That they are down on men who claim to be Americans, but are devoid of gentlemanly instincts, and show no respect for the religion and customs of a people whose hospitality they ask; who slander their wives and daughters, and charge the Mexicans with being dishonest and treacherous, is not to their discredit. But they are anxious for the good will of the American people, and if the Americans who have visited this country had been half as anxious to win the respect of the Mexicans, both countries would be better informed about each other than they are now. The upper ranks of the Mexicans are the equals of anybody in culture, patriotism, and human virtues, while the lower classes, although seemingly degraded, are as law-abiding, intelligent and gentle as any people could be under similar circumstances. I know of what I speak when I say that these people, high and low, have fought harder and suffered more for the establishment and maintenance of republican institutions than the much exalted founders of our own republic ever dreamt of doing. Being forced, ever since they first asserted their independence, to defend it against invaders and conspirators, these people have not had the opportunity to pay that attention to the interior development of republican institutions which in the United States has taken a natural course, excepting the forcible removal of the curse of slavery, which, by a little good judgment by both sides, might have been brought about in a quiet and peaceable manner. Indeed, the Mexican people, as such, are entitled to the highest respect on our part. But the trouble has been, and is to-day, that people come here from the United States expecting to make fortunes in a day, and believing that everybody has to receive them as superior beings, and very often act in a highly offensive manner. There are such people now here, right here in Mexico, who misrepresent the American character, and in their talks to visitors misrepresent Mexico in a scandalous manner. I am glad to know that The Two Republics accepts it as a duty to neutralize the harm such people are doing."

On being asked if he considered it safe for Americans to make investments in Mexico, he said:

"I do indeed, and have proven it by my own acts. The Mexican Government is ever ready to encourage American enterprise, and has quite often got the worst of its bargains. It has been led to promise support to enterprises beyond its power of fulfillment. And this makes me think of the charge that Mexican officials are corrupt and are bleeding American investors. It is quite possible that concessions have been bought, and that some Mexican officials have betrayed their trusts; but that is as much the fault of the investors, familiar with the crooked ways of legislatures, both State and national, in the United States, as of the officials. As a rule, I am free to confess that, as far as integrity is concerned, Mexican officials compare very favorably with their counterparts in the United States. My advice to investors is, to avoid middlemen of all kinds, and to deal directly with head-quarters. They will find how easy and pleasant it is to deal with the Mexican Government. Treat a Mexican like a gentleman, and he will treat you the same."

He is very sanguine as to the opening of lands for settlement in Mexico. He says:

"I believe that the present government fully appreciates the necessity of breaking up the large estates. My opinion is, that Mexico must very soon open wide to immigration, the same as the United States have done. It is only a question of time, when a foreigner will have the chance to acquire full political equality with the native citizen. In the mean time, I know that many estates have passed and will pass into the hands of American and other capitalists, who will naturally break them up into small homesteads, in order to secure the largest returns for their investments. The spirit of the times is felt by the Mexican leaders, and it will not be long before, through their efforts, the Republic of Mexico will be as much the home of the free and the brave, in the sense used in the United States, as the latter. I repeat it once more, Americans who mind their business, who behave like sensible men, and treat the Mexicans with the respect they deserve, will find a splendid field for enterprise in Mexico. Their property and their lives will be well protected, as far as the government can afford such protection, that is, to the same degree as they are protected in the United States. But they must obey the laws of the land, and always realize that they are enjoying the hospitalities of a country which still considers everybody not a native a foreigner."

Judge Crosby lived for many years on the frontier of Texas, and as early as 1854 became judge of the immense district comprising all the territory west of the Pecos. Since then he has held important relations with our railway system. Eminent in scholarship, in legal lore one of the brighest lights of the Texas bar, and with exceptional opportunities for knowing the subject thoroughly, Judge Crosby's opinions are entitled to the highest consideration.

He says further: "During my judicial career nobody gave me less trouble than the Mexicans, but I have to confess that I was very often called upon to protect them against sharp, not to say dishonest practices, on the part of the Americans who flocked into that country. The criminal branch of my court was almost exclusively occupied by the trial of offenses committed by lawless men who claimed to be Americans, and the only time I was in danger was when these outlaws tried to assassinate me while holding court. My life was saved through the intervention of Mexicans from both sides of the Rio Grande, who had heard of the conspiracy in time, and, forming a guard around the court-house, kept the scoundrels off."

In a recent letter to the author Judge Crosby says:

"My acquaintance with Mexico and her people dates back to a period of forty years, when, as a sixteen- year-old youth, I served under Jack Hays, the original Texas ranger, at the battle of Monterey. From that period to the present, I have never ceased to interest myself in all that has concerned Mexico and her future. I have made a study of her constitution, her laws; the manners, customs, traits of character, etc., etc., of her people, as well as the characteristics of this most beautiful and virgin portion of the North American Continent. Mexico is certainly the newest and yet the oldest of all North America."

Judge Crosby is at present engaged with some New York capitalists in developing the Corallitos property in Chihuahua, one hundred and fifty miles southwest of El Paso, which comprises 800,000 acres of farming and mining lands, and in which thus far $700,000 have been invested.

I am glad to testify to the fact from personal experience that ladies may with safety and propriety travel on any of the lines of railway throughout the country, getting off at any city or town and inspecting it to their satisfaction. Only this suggestion I would make: at the hotels where you stop procure a guide, who knows all the places of interest, and pursue your way quietly, not making undue remarks nor laughing in a loud tone at what may seem ludicrous.

Mexican affairs have been severely criticised by many writers; and objections of every character have been urged. It will be found, however, that there is neither fairness in statements made, nor is there much display of deep study into causes.

Among the chief complaints are: (i) The instability of the Mexican

THE CITY OF MEXICO.

government and the proneness of the people to revolution. (2) Border troubles between Mexico and Texas. (3) Non-progressiveness of the Mexican people. (4) Want of wholesome internal laws conducive to the happiness of all classes.

History shows that the government of Mexico has been unstable; and that the beautiful country has, until within a decade or so, been the scene of oppression and strife, ever since the day when Hernando Cortez first unfurled the Spanish flag, and burned his ships on her shores. But when it is considered that the country was filled with independent peoples, each with its own traditions and customs, living

CHURCH OF SACRE MONTI, AMECAMECA.

in great cities, and with independent governments, and not nomadic in their character, but holding the soil of their ancestors, it is not surprising that the change from the ancient civilization of the aboriginal races to the modern has been slow, and that governmental disturbances have been frequent. No race that was fixed has been over suddenly induced to adopt the laws, customs and religion of its conquerors; and the tardy progress of Mexico has been largely due to the restraining influences and prejudices of the original inhabitants, who slowly discard the habits of their ancestors for the teachings of modern civilization. It takes centuries to work such a transformation. Then, too, the immutable doctrines of the Church, with its unvarying teachings and ceremonies, serve in a measure to influence the people to receive with caution and by slow degrees anything that would change their social and political condition. These remarks, of course, apply particularly to the original races that occupy Mexico—remnants of the ancient tribes. Mexico has progressed as rapidly as could be expected, when the large number of her aboriginal inhabitants is compared with the feebler bands of European strangers that mastered the government, and engaged in the attempt to indoctrinate the people with a new religion, new government, and strange customs.

The English in North America had none of these difficulties, because they met a nomadic people, and there was no decided attempt to assimilate the Indians with the Europeans; hence the seeming advance in the United States and Canadas. There were no fetters on progress, and the new world kept pace with the old in North America, while Mexico, Central and South America were held retarded by the almost invincible customs of the aborigines.

With races mixed, revolutions are inevitable for a time. The situation of the country, and the remarkable dissimilarities of the people, render a strong central government impossible. Rival parties with interests dissimilar, headed by bold leaders, are the natural concomitants of an unstable government; and they multiply and more frequently collide where government is in a transition state, perfecting itself by slow progression. The internal dissensions that have heretofore distracted Mexico, and her failure to adopt the standard in progression as fixed by her neighboring republic, are some of the inevitables; and there is no remedy save time and perseverance on the part of reformers who are kindred spirits with the Mexican people. No foreign power need ever expect with ruthless hand to break down Mexican customs, laws, peculiarities and institutions. Such changes as are made must be made slowly. With the American idea of government in Mexico the worst evils would arise. The ultraism of American reforms would defeat all reform.

Mexico has taken no backward step. Since she made her natural secession from the Spanish crown she has progressed, and her institutions have advanced in proportion. From each revolution she has emerged, purified, strengthened and with government better fitted for a people who in the end will enjoy full liberty under a pure republic. Her revolutions are the fires through which she must pass for refinement. They accomplish in a brief, though desperate, period what it might require ages to perfect by moral suasion.

While the "home rule" has been tumultuous in the extreme, yet it was the only government that was destined by the Allwise to survive; to stand at last, perfected in its own way, a fitting monument to the sore trials and afflictions of a brave people.

The antagonism between the United States and Mexico is unquestionably more largely due to border troubles than to any other cause. The dividing lines between countries have always been scenes of trouble, and, considering the causes that exist for unfriendly feeling, the difficulties that occur on the Rio Grande are not remarkable. On either side of this line the stormy elements break with tumult, the one against the other. The floating, unsettled population drift to both borders, and the magistracy on both sides is feeble.

Let there be a better magistracy on both borders. Let both governments bend their energies to hold in check the wild, disorderly elements that seek their boundaries, hoping to be under no rule. It is only by mutual effort in this direction that these troubles can be suppressed, for it is in these regions that the strong arm of the law should be most heavily laid. In general, too, the chief disturbers of the peace are unworthy of protection.

Let the consulates be filled by discreet and just men. When they can be selected from among those living on the border, speaking each other's language and having some acquaintance with each other's customs, a great advantage is gained.

Neither government should be regarded as intending wrong, violating the laws of nations or treaties, until the case be too plain for dispute. When either republic violates the rights of citizens of the other, let peaceful arbitration heal the breach.

A new era is dawning in Mexico. The advent of railways is opening a wide field; her people are rousing from their slumber. The government is extending her protection over the poor as well as the rich classes, and rapid progress is witnessed on every side. The wealthy and powerful of the Mexican Republic owe it to themselves to let the spirit of freedom and independence find full growth in the bosoms of all, from the toiling peon on the hacienda to the wild, dark Indian in the fastnesses of his mountains.

The administration of President Diaz marks a glorious epoch in Mexican history, and the law recently passed by Congress, making a second term constitutional, gives a still brighter outlook for the future. A few decades with governments like that inaugurated by him and the co-operation of the powerful men in Mexico, and the republic will take rank with the foremost nations.

Far from placing a bar to her progress, it behooves us to extend the right hand of fellowship, and hasten rather than impede a consummation so devoutly to be wished by all lovers of republican institutions. He who would attempt to retard this great work and seek to incite the lawless border element to a breaking up of the existing harmony would be possessed of the remorseless spirit of the piratical Norseman and the inhumanity of the buccaneers, combined with the desperate ambition of the barbarous Huns.

It will only be when Americans have lost their love of freedom and pride of country that they will look with indifference upon such disturbance of our sister republic. This will never be; our wise statesmanship will see to it that the Mexican people be left to perfect their institutions according to those immutable laws that govern from the dawn to the close of a nation's life.